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Discussion Starter #1
I just dropped my oil pan to replace the gasket. What is the best way to remove the gasket? I tried using a scraper but It will take forever. Also-Should I replace the rear main seal? I thought it was leaking but I think it's the pan gasket, not sure. How do I do that? I removed the oil pump and two bolts on the rear bearing but it won't budge.
Once again thanks for the help.



 

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Buy a scraper that holds an actual razor blade. They cut in and under the old gasket materials a lot better than typical scrapers. Most auto parts stores carry razor blade scrapers for a few bucks. Solvents and rags will help clean everything up when the majority of the gasket is gone. Make sure you clean the channels in the timing cover and rear main very well too.

Buy a one piece Fel-Pro blue rubber gasket for re-assembly. Use a dob of silicon in the four corners before the new gasket is in place to help seal those areas.

Since you have the pan off you might as well change the rear main seal.

That rear main is fitted into channel so it will require a tad bit of effort to release it. You can gently tap on it from the back to loosen it or you can put the bolt back in the top hole and tap that with a hammer to loosen it.

Use a screw driver or awl to push out the block side of the rear main seal.

When buying a new rear main seal, use a double lip version, since your stock seal no doubt wore tiny grooves in the crank journal. The double lip seal will ride on parts of the journal that are still fresh with no grooves, improving your seal.

Make sure you have them aligned properly to seal in the oil.

Finally, don't set the halves perfectly aligned with the block and rear main. Offset them a little bit. Push one in too far, about .5", so when you put the rear main on, .5" of the seal actually slides up into the block, so the seam of the rear main seal and the seam of the rear main to not line up.
 

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D_C covered it pretty good.
We also put a small dab of RTV on the ends of the new seal on reassembly.
To help align the pan we also use maybe 3 (1/4-20 1 inch long)socket set screws to help. Keeps the pan from slipping off the gasket.




Gary V
www.vtechcorvette.com
 

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http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=83048&highlight=Rear+Main+Seal


Try this. :thumbsup:

The only thing I'll add is if you decide to offset the ends of the seal, be careful you don't slice that little rib off the bottom of the groove on the outside diameter. 2 reasons- one is that rib adds a touch of pinch to the outer diameter, and the second is that rib seals the OD of the seal to the block. If you follow GM's service manual, it'll be a long time before you have another leak.
 

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Use a screw driver or awl to push out the block side of the rear main seal.
:surprised

Use a brass pin punch. Using an awl or a screwdriver is poor practise at best. Scratching a journal with a steel tool, never a good idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Can anyone give me the part numbers?

Thanks for the info.
Can anyone give me the part numbers for the fel pro oil pan gasket and the rear main seal? I looked at all of the big auto parts stores and they show a gasket that has both left and right dipstick holes. I was told this will work but not sure. I have a 78.

Thanks
 

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One thing I want to stress, is the use of an anerobic sealant!
This is a sealant that wont start to cure until it is starved of oxygen!
So, it remains liquid until you bolt up the rear main cap and torque down the rear main bolts. It will provide a good, long lasting seal on 2 piece RM seals.
It is made by Permatex (loctite and sealants) that is about $6 for a small tube and I have found it at Napa Auto parts.

Also, I would use a soft metal punch to "break free" the RMS that is in the engine block itself! Using steel may mar or scratch the gasket mating surface causing a small amount of seepage that will never go away! A toothbrush comes in handy for cleaning the rear main cap itself.

Over all, it is about a 6-8 hour job. That is including jacking up the car, disassembly, cleaning and painting of the oil pan, RMS replacement, proper torquing of the oil pan, lowering the car, filling with fresh oil.
I like to take my time when doing this.

Also, I would get the Fel-Pro gasket with the little metal rings in the rubber around each of the bolt holes! Those are there to help avoid over-torqueing the oil pan bolts. Its the expensive oil pan gasket, LOL.
 

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Hey markk I sent you a pm with the fel-pro numbers:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks-Got it. I ordered everything from Advance. It was all in stock and I got 20% off. Sales ends today, Tday is the code if anyone is interested.
 
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