One thing I want to stress, is the use of an anerobic sealant!
This is a sealant that wont start to cure until it is starved of oxygen!
So, it remains liquid until you bolt up the rear main cap and torque down the rear main bolts. It will provide a good, long lasting seal on 2 piece RM seals.
It is made by Permatex (loctite and sealants) that is about $6 for a small tube and I have found it at Napa Auto parts.
Also, I would use a soft metal punch to "break free" the RMS that is in the engine block itself! Using steel may mar or scratch the gasket mating surface causing a small amount of seepage that will never go away! A toothbrush comes in handy for cleaning the rear main cap itself.
Over all, it is about a 6-8 hour job. That is including jacking up the car, disassembly, cleaning and painting of the oil pan, RMS replacement, proper torquing of the oil pan, lowering the car, filling with fresh oil.
I like to take my time when doing this.
Also, I would get the Fel-Pro gasket with the little metal rings in the rubber around each of the bolt holes! Those are there to help avoid over-torqueing the oil pan bolts. Its the expensive oil pan gasket, LOL.