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Discussion Starter #1
I am going to be installing a 7qt milodon stroker pan today and was wondering if you guys have any tips. I have a 4 piece gasket from felpro it is the black material. I have got a couple of different ways to do the install from different people and am not sure which is best. One guy tells me he doesen't use the end pieces, he uses a silicone called the right stuff instead.

Any help or tips would be greatly appreciated. I don't want to have a leaky pan.
 

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Id start by , degreasing the blocks lower surface and installing STUDS in the block on at least the 4 corners, but be sure they extend just slightly more than minimum length out of the block so you can align and install the pan without clearance issues.
Id also go with the one piece gasket set and Id suggest using a bit of contact cement along the upper block to gasket surface, having that firmly locked in place, having the gasket into the proper location, and having the end seals stuck firmly on the block and timing cover and rear seal cap,before having to screw with pan placement, helps a good deal to make the install easier.
be aware that the pans front edge only easily clears the cross member and engine at the front edge with some pans with the crank counter weights in one location, so you may need to rotate the crank durring the install
 

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Like grumpyvette I like the studs. I install studs in all locations. I also use 3M weather strip adhesive for installing the end pieces. That stuff quickly dries and really holds everything firmly in place.
 

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Like grumpyvette I like the studs. I install studs in all locations. I also use 3M weather strip adhesive for installing the end pieces. That stuff quickly dries and really holds everything firmly in place.
I like that stud idea. I installed a 1 piece on mine with just a little sealer in the corners. It was difficult getting it on, but it has not leaked.

What kind of studs do you use?
 

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I just did this this weekend and couldn't agree more about the the Felpro one piece gasket. Some times I wonder about things that are made to make jobs easier but the one piece gasket is MUCH easier than the the other and looks like it will work better.

The stud idea is a good one also and Felpro included a set of "snap-ups" to align the pan. You can see them in the picture below. These would be primarily helpful if you were replacing the pan on the car (as they hold the pan in position as you are installing bolts).

The ONLY problem I had was interference with the oil dipstick tube on the inside of the pan interfering with the windage tray. It took me a while to figure out that one.

 

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Discussion Starter #7
The gasket that was on there was a felpro one piece. Are they reuseable?
 

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"The gasket that was on there was a felpro one piece. Are they reuseable?"

THAT of course depends on the condition and previous installation,and if the gasket is or has been over tightened, I generally use contact cement between the degreased block and upper surface of the gasket and nothing in the way of sealant between the pan and lower surface of the gasket, since I pull the pan fairly often for inspections, so yeah they can be RE-USED if they are not over tightened or abused.

the use of STUDS and not removing or moving the gasket durring the inspections seems to prolong the gaskets life.
BTW
Ive found the long nuts that are used on THREAD ROD make the use of an open end wrench , or socket and even your fingers to align the nut on the stud threads far easier

 

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Discussion Starter #9
Will this pan be a better set up with the built in windage scrapper, than the crank mount one I took off?
 
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