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Ive always used the 350 MAIN STUD kit, its correct for the block, and works correctly with the 3.75 stroke crank (IM useing ARP STUDS and a MILODON windage screen im my 1985 383 corvette!)
the windage tray is adjustable in height(distance from crank centerline,on the studs)carefully set it so the inner windage tray surface is about 1/8-3/32 " from the outer crank assemblies spinning surface for max efficiency.
btw it REALLY helps to run a baffled 7-8 qt oil pan and a crank scraper is not a bad idea also!
Ive found that

http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/
RH Claimer Pan, Pick up, HV Pump Info MWM 15121K 94.95 Each
LH Claimer Pan, Pick up, HV Pump Info MWM 15120K 89.99 Each

has a very good deal oil pans,(I USE THESE AS A GOOD CHEAP STARTING POINT for the ASSEMBLE A GOOD SYSTEM) call and talk to them, they have SEVERAL package deals with 7 or 8 quart oil pans, high volume pumps and matching pick-up for under $100
i NEEDED TO VERY SLIGHTLY MODIFY MINE ON THE LOWER FRONT EDGE TO CLEAR THE CROSS MEMBER AND WHILE THAT WAS BEING DONE i HAD THE MACHINE SHOP EXTEND THE SUMP FORWARD TO INCREASE THE PANS VOLUME TO 9.5 QTS
NOW A 9.5 QT BAFFLED PAN INCLUDEING ALL PARTS AND MACHINE WORK, PUMP,PICK-UP AND WINDAGE SCREEN FOR UNDER ABOUT $260 AIN,T A BAD DEAL(NOT COUNTING STUDS)


ARP makes both a Stud set, and a bolt set designed for the small block Chevrolet that will allow you to mount the milodon style windage tray in many stock Chevrolet oil pans, you will need to open the mounting holes slightly to install it on a 400 block due to the slightly wider bolt spacing

http://www.arp-bolts.com/
try to mount the tray 1/8" to 3/32 from the spinning assemblies outer dia.
Ok its much simpler than it looks
studs must not be run in untill they stop (bottom out) they get oiled then threaded in per the instructions , (into the main caps/block untill they stop then back them out one full turn)then torque the main cap nuts in 3-5 stages to seat and lock the caps to the block to spec while makeing sure the studs themselfs do not turn in any further and measure the crank bore in the block to make sure the bearing bore is not distorted , do this the first time before installing the crank to make sure the block does not need to be align honed those black washers go between the cap and the cap tension nuts BTW (if it is youll need to get the block align bored)BTW theres also a stud for oil pump installations that acts as a locateing stud for the windage screen as well, next thread the lower nuts that locate the windage screen height from the crank counter weights and rods so that the screen sits about 1/8"-1/4" from the rotateing assembly (rotate the installed assembly 360 degrees several times to check carefully the clearances)
after carefully checking the clearances install the nuts above the screen to lock the windage screen in place at that clearance (recheck all clearances AND that the dipstick tube and dipstick fit correctly)

notice the nuts and washers are in the correct locations on the studs

LOOK CLOSELY AT THIS WINDAGE TRAY INSTALL KIT
Required to properly mount the tray assembly. Adjustable mounting position allows the tray to work at its maximum potential by being as close as possible to the rotating assembly (min.100") and to avoid any unnecessary interference with the oil pan. Install with the 7/16" nuts torqued to 65 ft./lbs or 1/2" to 85 ft/lbs using oil, and the 3/8" nuts torqued to 35 ft./lbs.
PROPERLY INSTALLED windage screens return oil MUCH FASTER TO THE OIL PAN SUMP, and can make (SAVE FROM BEING WASTED BEATING THE OIL TO A FROTH) about 5-12 hp at high rpms
 

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Thanks for that post Grumpyvette, this is something I have been wondering about with my current buildup. I am putting together a 383/AFR195/roller cammed engine for my 84. I bought a Milodon diamond stripper windage tray before I pulled the motor down. I was suprised to find the factory fitted baffle/tray mounted on the main cap bolts and had been wondering if I should reuse the original setup (as it matches the baffles in the bottom on the pan), or the diamond stripper...
Comments?
Ben.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
the milodon windage screen is a whole lot more effective at returning the oil pushed by the crank back into the sump (the real reason a windage screen is prefered over the less effective windage tray,than the stock windage tray thats only function is to limit the amount of oil beaten to a froth by the spinning crank assembly. theres no question that the milodon windage screen is superior in design
 
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