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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone completely strip a Corvette before?

If so, what did you use and hours spent?

Just trying to get some ideas, I know a local shop that will soda blast for 800.00 and it stops at the gelcoat, but looking for other ideas....thanks!
 

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I use man gel
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Me. took me about 6 months (on and off) to get the body stripped and primed (including some bodywork)

I used a gallon of Fiberglass safe Paint stripper (most auto parts stores carry it).

hope this helps
 

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I've always been told that stripping a Vette with chemical stripper is not a good idea. The stripper gets into the fibreglass and then comes out after the paint is applied, sometimes months later.

I know a guy that has stripped several solid axle cars and a couple of mid-years and all he used is a razor blade!!!
Claims he can strip the complete car in 40 hours. Sounds like an awful lot of work to me but he claims its actually pretty easy to do, and he doesn't have to worry about potential problems with chemical stripper.

As far as soda blasting is concerned, I think this is the best way to strip glass, especially and only if you have a guy doing it that is used to working with fibreglass. I had the hardtop for my '64 soda blasted before paint and the results were great. The guy that did it could literally remove the paint one layer at a time, and had done fibreglass work before. Only way to go IMHO.

Another method that is used around here by some shops is blasting with plastic pellets. The claims are the same as with soda, but I friend of mine had a deck lid done with it and said that the pellet blasting resulted in a rough glass surface that required a ot of prep work prior to paint.

:D :D
 

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DC PIT CREW BOSS
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It come down to time and money. $800. doesn't sound like a bad deal. I think I would rather spend the money and enjoy my time
 

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64vette said:
I've always been told that stripping a Vette with chemical stripper is not a good idea. The stripper gets into the fibreglass and then comes out after the paint is applied, sometimes months later.

I know a guy that has stripped several solid axle cars and a couple of mid-years and all he used is a razor blade!!!
Claims he can strip the complete car in 40 hours. Sounds like an awful lot of work to me but he claims its actually pretty easy to do, and he doesn't have to worry about potential problems with chemical stripper.

As far as soda blasting is concerned, I think this is the best way to strip glass, especially and only if you have a guy doing it that is used to working with fibreglass. I had the hardtop for my '64 soda blasted before paint and the results were great. The guy that did it could literally remove the paint one layer at a time, and had done fibreglass work before. Only way to go IMHO.

Another method that is used around here by some shops is blasting with plastic pellets. The claims are the same as with soda, but I friend of mine had a deck lid done with it and said that the pellet blasting resulted in a rough glass surface that required a ot of prep work prior to paint.

Your right on there Brian, I have stripped a car with razor blades and it does work great, and you are right, you don't have to worry about potential problems. I have also seen what the plastic pellets do, it leaves a rough surface. Baking soda in the wrong hands will leave a rough surface also. The two choices I would use is first time permitting use the razor blade second the baking soda. :thumbsup: Chemical stripping:spanked:
 

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DC Crew
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Chiman, there is an article in the July 2003 Corvette Fever (page 70) where they media-blasted a '69 Corvette.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks all, going to try the razor methods as some of the paint is already chipped, if that doesn't go good, off to soda blast.
 

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ChiMan said:
Thanks all, going to try the razor methods as some of the paint is already chipped, if that doesn't go good, off to soda blast.
Go to home depot and buy a box of blades it's cheaper that way along with the razor holder and just get under the first layer and start peeling it. Don't use the blade when it starts to get dull replace it. Let us know how you make out.;)
 

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I have stripped 7 Vettes over the past 30 yrs. I used paint stipper on all of them.
I stripped the pain off dn to the primer,washed the car w/laquer thinner & DA-ed the primmer off. My Son still has one we did & it still looks good...........Don.

http://www.autobodystore.com/ This is a good paint/body work forum that might help.
 

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I am here to (somewhat) dispell the razor blade myth. I am stripping my 87 and I have tried every method conceivable except for media blasting. The razor blade worked flawlessly on my right rear quarter panel (I guess its called a fender on a Corvette) Anyhow the rest of the car COULD NOT, WOULD NOT be stripped by razor. It just gouged andgrooved. I think I have the reasons why: My right rear was repainted and only the paint that was ON TOP OF the old paint came off -although it came off nicely. Heat is pretty cool but it scared the crap out of me. Peeler is dangerous, and Klean Strip for fiberglass is EXTREMELY tame. Once you get into it you realize the big problems are door jambs and the bumpers. Anyhow I have an old front fender that was cracked and I plan on posting pictures from the results of:
Klean Strip
Peeler
Razor blade
Heat
When I get all of my crap together. Anyhow if you can use the razor then cool. I really couldn't. Here is something I found that was cool. My replacement fender was blue OEM paint and Klean Strip wouldnt touch it AT ALL. As a matter of fact the only place that Klean Strip took off my OEM finish was in the door jambs (I can't for the life of me figure out why). If you strip with chemicals your new best friend should be lacquer thinner. It really cleans the body up nice after the stripper makes it look pretty sad.
My two cents.
 

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I just started stripping my car the other day
I have a compressor a D/A sander and an air file Well over $2500 invested
Those dime a dozen safty razors work by far the best!!!
Thanks LOADS for the tips guys
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Good fo you, I did the whole car in a few weeks, but only worked a couple hours a day.

Razors did the trick for me, but there is a learning curve on how to angle the razor and not scratch the gelcoat or body panels.

I found that a new blade did great on easy to reach flat areas and a used or slightly dull blade worked best on curves with slight pressure and slow scraping.

My .02
 
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