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Discussion Starter #1
Is the "arrow head" shaped piece of metal that sits in the notched post bolted to the backing plate, (which seems to be a guide for the top double spring that holds the p/b shoes together at the top) absolutely critical for p/b functionality?

Found the passenger side one all bent up, with a section with one of the tabs broken off and smashed into the notch. How this happened is beyond me, but replacing it seems out of the question without removing the wheel hub (not enough clearance to remove the post bolt). I've been able to get the piece flat again, and in positon with the one remaining tab still intact keeping it from spinning. Could I try to carefully weld the broken section together or maybe, a tiny weld to the post itself, or how about getting a new one, cutting it on one side (top center) so that I could fit it around the post then tac weld it back together?

Is it worth the effort (or really necessary) to effect this repair, or am I looking a a complete tear down of the hub assy just to get the post bolt off in order to install a new one?

Edit: Maybe this is a job for JB Weld?!
 

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could you get us a pic?

also, there is practically NEVER a good time to use JB Weld
 

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I assume you're referring to the guide plate. Here's a link to a diagram, as I've never posted a pic here....

http://www.keenparts.com/pages/Catalog3.php?diagram=5002&choice=41

Being it's a parking brake, not the primary brake, I say you could do without it. The guide plate keeps the brake shoe springs inline, or 'guided' as the title states.
It's just I'm somewhat of a perfectionist, and it would drive me nuts until I could get the little sucker replaced!
Good Luck with it!
:cheers:
 

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Here is a PB setup.


I think you're talking about the anchor and bolt at the 12 o'clock position? It acts as a pivot for the shoes. The other arrow item would be the pins that hold the spring hold downs.
 

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That is the anchor bolt lock. You should see the tabs bent over the hex bolt like in my picture. You're not going to replace that without removing the spindle and then you wreck the bearings in most cases. If the bolt is tight, bent it back over and let it go until you rebuild the arms.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well, it WAS tight before I loosened it to allow accces for cleaning/de-patina-ing/re-finishing.

I've got a 3/4" crows-foot and a clicking torque wrench. Any recomended torque setting for this tool combo, or should I just crank on it with a 3/4" box end, call it good, and bend the tabs on the anchor bolt lock?:huh:
 

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Get it tight with the combo wrench, probably more direct torque then the crowsfoot setup.
 
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