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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've had my eye on a supercharger for my LS3 swap since pretty much the git go, even back when I was deciding on a camshaft for the engine. I must admit, the cam works well in a naturally aspirated state, but I'm curious to see how it works in a boosted state in which it was designed for.

First an foremost, this upgrade is one done on the cheap, and is based upon the ZL1 and CTS-V TVS 1900 series. I've already obtained the improved hat (neat looking piece) and just received the blower drive pulleys in a kit that will allow the supercharger to run directly off the crank. The accessories have their own drive. I've had several bids on the supercharger, but none have came through yet. The Bay has a pretty good revolving assortment of new and used 100's at just about any given time. Just understand most of them will require injectors, fuel rail, harness, sensors, ect. So budget that in as well. Also budget in a solid isolator coupling, as it's this piece that's made TVS 1900's so readily available. About 30 bucks for the solid coupling.
Anyway, this is the game plan. I'll post pictures as the project moves forward.
 

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What kind of computer work is needed? I assume it won't sense the changes in fuel, air, and manifold pressure and make the corrections automatically?
 

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I've been waiting to see someone do this. No room for this in a c4 c5 or c6 because of the extra pulley required on the crank. do it. please post up pictures of coupler install
 

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Cool project, you want be happy until that vette fly's :smack
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The PCM will still be in control of the supercharger , though we haven't decided whether to to run a 2 or 3 bar maf, or set it up as speed density and do away with the maf altogether.
Even within the LS1'S pcm's environment that was never meant for forced induction BTW, General Motors and HP Tuners seen fit and gave us the ability to create boosted tables and implement them into the tune, giving pcm control over many of the variables your wondering about.
The factory GM pcm really is an amazing piece of hardware with full featured software that can do some pretty amazing stuff (once you break into it). And it's incorporated into every factory GM LSx pcm. HP Tuners through the purchase of credits gives me the ability to change, delete, add just about anything.
Right now, I'm having fun playing with shift points, and am getting close to setting the shift points to work with the 3:73's, both in normal driving and performance modes. We can even increase or decrease line transmission pump pressures in any given gear, and at any rpm or mph with a few clicks of a mouse.
The more I dig into the tune ability of the LSX archetecture, the more amazed I become. I can do with a laptop what took several weekends at the drags to perform, and even that was hit and miss when you factor in a cool day vs a hot one.
Once you set the variables up for your particular car, (tire sizes, gear ratios, ect.) It's time to find a QUALIFIED tuner, and I don't mean some guy that can change the plugs.....
The real magic after all is performed on the dyno, as that gives us the real world facts and figures that we can go back and see what was happening at any given mph or rpm, hp loss and gains, ect., and fine tune the many variables. I still haven't found one I trust to do a thorough tune, but I'm not ready yet anyway.
I'd probably figure 400 to 600 bucks for a good tune including dyno time. Once that is achieved, using HP Tuners and real world conditions, I'll be able to further fine tune maf tables and implement changes pretty much on the fly.

As far as how much control I'll have, Your guess is as good as mine. We'll figure that one out together. I can say this. I don't think the supercharger would have fit under the stock hood. It's going to need the clearance the L88 scoop provides. More than I thought it would for sure.

I'm also planning a boost gauge, and think I found a place that can take my factory clock and convert it WITH proper background as well as the period correft font and make it look like it belonged there all along. Least that's the goal.

So really, once again I'm holding true to being totally anal and wanting a factory look out of the finished product. The journey begins!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Awesome!! Very cool. Is the paint dry yet??
ROFL! Probably not, even though it was baked. :thud:I've been sitting on my hands the last 11 months with nothing to do, and this supercharger mod is one thing I want completed before this years Power Tour (looks like I might actually make it this year). Yay!
 

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Patro, a couple years back I had a '04 GTO that i messed around with. First thing I did was a Trickflow 515 hp top end kit. It worked well but I got bored real quick so I put a Procharger system on it. My tuner guy...(I know nothing about tuning these computerized cars) he explained to me that he put in a 2 Bar MAP and edited out the MAF, but left the MAF in and connected. The stock ECM was used. Everything worked well even with the wild non blower cam. 586 rwhp / 477 ft. lbs. Stock bottom end. That LS1 was surpassingly tough.

All this talk of supercharger their LS powered C3'S Is really making me anxious to get a Maggie on my '81 vette.:laughing::thumbsup:
 

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ROFL! Probably not, even though it was baked. :thud:I've been sitting on my hands the last 11 months with nothing to do, and this supercharger mod is one thing I want completed before this years Power Tour (looks like I might actually make it this year). Yay!
Power Tour? I'll look for you car. I plan on doing the whole thing.

BTW, I had to notch and box in the front cross member so my blower pulley would fit on the crank (1973 vette)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Patro, a couple years back I had a '04 GTO that i messed around with. First thing I did was a Trickflow 515 hp top end kit. It worked well but I got bored real quick so I put a Procharger system on it. My tuner guy...(I know nothing about tuning these computerized cars) he explained to me that he put in a 2 Bar MAP and edited out the MAF, but left the MAF in and connected. The stock ECM was used. Everything worked well even with the wild non blower cam. 586 rwhp / 477 ft. lbs. Stock bottom end. That LS1 was surpassingly tough.

All this talk of supercharger their LS powered C3'S Is really making me anxious to get a Maggie on my '81 vette.
ROFL! Probably not, even though it was baked.
I've been sitting on my hands the last 11 months with nothing to do, and this supercharger mod is one thing I want completed before this years Power Tour (looks like I might actually make it this year). Yay!
Power Tour? I'll look for you car. I plan on doing the whole thing.

BTW, I had to notch and box in the front cross member so my blower pulley would fit on the crank (1973 vette)
ROFL! Probably not, even though it was baked.
I've been sitting on my hands the last 11 months with nothing to do, and this supercharger mod is one thing I want completed before this years Power Tour (looks like I might actually make it this year). Yay!
Power Tour? I'll look for you car. I plan on doing the whole thing.

BTW, I had to notch and box in the front cross member so my blower pulley would fit on the crank (1973 vette)
ROFL! Probably not, even though it was baked.
I've been sitting on my hands the last 11 months with nothing to do, and this supercharger mod is one thing I want completed before this years Power Tour (looks like I might actually make it this year). Yay!
Power Tour? I'll look for you car. I plan on doing the whole thing.

BTW, I had to notch and box in the front cross member so my blower pulley would fit on the crank (1973 vette)
I was enjoying your comment, thinking how that extra buck twenty at the rear wheels is gonna feel then I came to the the part where you had to knock the frame. All those euphoric thoughts just came crashing down to reality. I'm sure hoping no frame work is involved.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yesterday afternoon the new improved ZL1 supercharger top hat came in, and did so nicely equipped. The improved intercooler now has the inlet and outlet in the front of the hat. It even came with what looks like map sensors (two of them) and another that looks like an air temp sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Along with the supercharger arriving, I received the supercharger drive pulley kit. I really had to do some comparative research, as I've already invested in Holley's drive belt relocation kit, moving the alternator and the ac compressor up high. I also did not want the supercharger driven off anything other than the crankshaft. I also wanted an 8 rib drive and not a 6.

The kit I found allows just that but requires removal of the water pump and installing a ZL1 water pump.

The Holley drive brackets I have already installed will have to be converted from Fbody spacing to Corvette belt spacingl, and the ac compressor mount will have to replaced with their own to function with the blower drive setup due to idler location. I am able to keep the Holley high mount alternator and power steering pump bracketry. This kit allows the supercharger to be driven directly off the crankshaft with only one belt tensioner.
 

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It is nice to know you are tuning with hptuners and doing it yourself. If there is anything I can help you with in that department, please just ask. I have been exactly where you are going with hptuners many times over.

About 1, 2, and 3 bar MAP sensors. They all operate in the same voltage window. 0-5v. the difference becomes resolution. As we make a 0-5v sensor go from just reading vacuum to reading vacuum and boost, we trade resolution to cover a broader area. like zooming out. because of this, it is best to plan for what you are doing. if you are only going to run 6 or 7 psi, then only get a 2 bar map and 2 bar os.

Abot Mass Airflow Sensors. Ignorant people will tell you to dump it because they do not understand them. The best you can do for your maf is to get a card style maf out of a 2008+ corvette. get a pigtail for it. wiring is simple. both maf sensors have 2 wires for iat and the +5v, gnd, and signal wires. you can simply goto hptuners tune repository and open a stock tune file for a 2008 corvette and copy and paste the maf calibration for a base setting. The maf should be mounted as close to 12" away from the throttle body as possible. At the throttle body airflow is not constant across whole tube. at part throttle air is drawn from top and bottom. but by 12" away from the throttle body, it is pulling from the entire inside of the intake evenly. The card style are favorable because they can be put into different size piping to tune the sensor to keep hz in the correct window for what your motor is breathing. if that makes sense to you.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
It is nice to know you are tuning with hptuners and doing it yourself. If there is anything I can help you with in that department, please just ask. I have been exactly where you are going with hptuners many times over.

About 1, 2, and 3 bar MAP sensors. They all operate in the same voltage window. 0-5v. the difference becomes resolution. As we make a 0-5v sensor go from just reading vacuum to reading vacuum and boost, we trade resolution to cover a broader area. like zooming out. because of this, it is best to plan for what you are doing. if you are only going to run 6 or 7 psi, then only get a 2 bar map and 2 bar os.

Abot Mass Airflow Sensors. Ignorant people will tell you to dump it because they do not understand them. The best you can do for your maf is to get a card style maf out of a 2008+ corvette. get a pigtail for it. wiring is simple. both maf sensors have 2 wires for iat and the +5v, gnd, and signal wires. you can simply goto hptuners tune repository and open a stock tune file for a 2008 corvette and copy and paste the maf calibration for a base setting. The maf should be mounted as close to 12" away from the throttle body as possible. At the throttle body airflow is not constant across whole tube. at part throttle air is drawn from top and bottom. but by 12" away from the throttle body, it is pulling from the entire inside of the intake evenly. The card style are favorable because they can be put into different size piping to tune the sensor to keep hz in the correct window for what your motor is breathing. if that makes sense to you.
I have an LS3-LS7 card style maf, the pigtail as well. I used the LS1 air temp sensor, then wired in the 3 wire for the card style maf. I'm told that trying to run the LS3 maf in an LS1 pcm won't work without a lot of table calibrations. Also, since it's going to be boosted, whatever I'm doing now will be moot. As far as boost goes, I cant see ever running more than 9 psi boost. I DO however want to keep a properly operating maf and would prefer to avoid a speed density tune. Your thoughts, ESPECIALLY on the LS1 pcm being able to read the LS3 maf, and whether I can stay away from speed density with the LSA blower, and do so within the LS1 environment. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
:agree:


Hope to see it on the PT!!!:thumbsup:


Richard
This year, you should see her. Look forward to meeting many of you guys. I've heard the Power Tour is coming to Stillwater Oklahoma, then off to Kansas. We'll pick it up in Stillwater and wing it till we're pooped:thud:
 

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I have an LS3-LS7 card style maf, the pigtail as well. I used the LS1 air temp sensor, then wired in the 3 wire for the card style maf. I'm told that trying to run the LS3 maf in an LS1 pcm won't work without a lot of table calibrations. Also, since it's going to be boosted, whatever I'm doing now will be moot. As far as boost goes, I cant see ever running more than 9 psi boost. I DO however want to keep a properly operating maf and would prefer to avoid a speed density tune. Your thoughts, ESPECIALLY on the LS1 pcm being able to read the LS3 maf, and whether I can stay away from speed density with the LSA blower, and do so within the LS1 environment. Thanks!
the card style maf is compatible with your ecu. but the actual maf calibration will change from vehicle to vehicle. because the maf is a tiny sensing element in the dead center of a tube. it does not measure air flowing anywhere else. different sizes and bends of intakes ant throttle bodies will change what hz the sensor reports at a given airflow.

That maf will work fine for your boosted application. you will just only wire 3 wires for sensor(+5v, sensor gnd, and signal return). the 2 wires for the intake air temp sensor need to go to a separate intake air temp sensor in the intake or lid assembly that is going to measure boosted air temps.

that card style maf is good to 14,000hz or 15. If while you are tuning and logging data, you see the maf sensor hz reaching or getting very close to this upper limit, then the card style maf needs to go into a 1/2in bigger diameter tube. Likewise, if after setup and tune while logging data, you never seem to reach 8,000hz, then maybe you should consider putting the maf in a smaller tube. And that is the beauty of the card style maf sensors. they are tuneable that way.

I can walk you through a procedure to accurately tune your maf based off of long term fuel trim data. if you'd like
 
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