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There are some options rebuilding a diff and one is using a solid sleeve.
The stock crush sleeves are ok for st car but if you want the added ins of using a sleeve that won't compress you use a solid sleeve. Norval machined up his in the past and I used the drawn solid tube sleeve a lot because they're better then the stock ones. The one thing I never liked was they were seamed, probably never be a problem but I found some DOM tube that is freaking harder then my head! This was a treat to machine but I set it up to dial in with the shims the drawn come with. Just something I had time to play around with. The material cost and labor probably will be higher then the drawn but the piece of mind is nice. You can add this to the diff index as well it may help someone in the future. I'll use these with the 12 bolts for some added strength. Keep in mind Tom never used any sleeves in the 12 bolts, just loctite. I'll machine the sleeves.

Here are the sleeves and the DOM tube



The DOM



Machined DOM



On the pinion with races



Stock, Drawn,Machined
 

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once again,NICE WORK!:thumbsup:
glad to see someones thinking things thru and not just stuffing replacement stock components at the rebuild
 

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Years ago I started using solid steeves because they were easier to work with then crush sleeves and they never backed off. Off roaders always use solid sleeves.
I was lucky and found a chrome moly seamless pipe with almost the right internal and external diameter so it was simple to start making solid sleeves.
Gary I set up Brians axles today and set the end play at .001 dry. Nice axles and flanges. I will do the rearend next Saturday. I will set it up in the mill and enlarge the holes for the bigger bearings.
my chrome moly solid sleeves
I pulled the picture, it was too big.
 

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Hi Norval
Good to hear from you again. I think Brian will like those 31 spline axles, I swapped in CR seals for him as well, why they shipped me the cheap ones I couldn't say except for saving a couple of bucks. Can you fit the case in your lathe to bore the end holes? I had some time today so I started to turn a brand new 12 bolt posi case and it just fits in out Hardinge lathe. I have to face the flange and chamfer the rear of the flange to shoe horn it into the vette housing. You have to try one of these.

This solid sleeve was a bear to machine but I feel it's stronger then the other 2 shown.
 

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Hi Norval
Good to hear from you again. I think Brian will like those 31 spline axles, I swapped in CR seals for him as well, why they shipped me the cheap ones I couldn't say except for saving a couple of bucks. Can you fit the case in your lathe to bore the end holes? I had some time today so I started to turn a brand new 12 bolt posi case and it just fits in out Hardinge lathe. I have to face the flange and chamfer the rear of the flange to shoe horn it into the vette housing. You have to try one of these.

This solid sleeve was a bear to machine but I feel it's stronger then the other 2 shown.
I have a tool to install the pinion seals and I was suprised that it fit perfectly on the axle seals??? I can't image mounting the rearend housing to a lathe??? I was planning on mounting it to a 90 degree surface plate and then just indicating the hole and then using my boring head bore the new size??
What is the new size?? HOw much interference fit should I have??
What is the size I want to bore to??
I know alot of questions but then I will not have to figure this out on my own.:laughing:

I plan to do the rear end next Saturday. We did the trailing arms this past Saturday.
Take care and it is nice to talk to you again Gary.:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hi Norval
Rather then tie up this thread call me or email and I'll go over it. I was referring to the posi case, that is all you need to bore to fit the 30 spline axles. That should fit in your lathe. I just "shoe-horned" a 12-bolt case in our lathe. I machine those to fit the vette housing.
Gary
 
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