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are there any special techniques to powder coating aluminum? Made my strut rods out of non-tempered 6061 and would like to get them coated.
 

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Not from what I have seen, check the powder package for specifics. AFAIK the heat isn't enough to bother the temper
 

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I've powder coated a few aluminium parts without any problems. The powder I use needs to be cooked at 400*F for 10 minutes which isn't high enough to do damage to the aluminium :thumbsup:
 

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are there any special techniques to powder coating aluminum? Made my strut rods out of non-tempered 6061 and would like to get them coated.
Let me see you used 6061-T0 ? at 16 - 18 ksi ?

6061-T6 is what 38 ksi?

My eyeball engineering "DANGER WILL ROBINSON" flag Just got raised...:laughing:

I made mine out of A513 DOM 1020 1" by 0.250 wall. at something like 60 KSI yield

Saftey factor?

"If an iron or steel component design were translated directly to aluminum, the design would achieve a 67% weight reduction (aluminum has 33% the density of steel, but a higher strength-to-weight ratio). However, a straight material substitution isn’t possible because of aluminum’s reduced strength, stiffness and resistance to stress."

Quote from internet source on the automotive use of Aluminum...

I don't have any idea of the actual loads on the strut rods, I will bet the GM engineers DID. and I'll bet they accounted for safety and service life.

Best case your strut rods are 3x the strength to handle the load... Then I way overbuilt mine...

Lets get some of the practicing engineers to chime in.

IMHO
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Let me see you used 6061-T0 ? at 16 - 18 ksi ?

6061-T6 is what 38 ksi?

My eyeball engineering "DANGER WILL ROBINSON" flag Just got raised...:laughing:

I made mine out of A513 DOM 1020 1" by 0.250 wall. at something like 60 KSI yield

Saftey factor?

"If an iron or steel component design were translated directly to aluminum, the design would achieve a 67% weight reduction (aluminum has 33% the density of steel, but a higher strength-to-weight ratio). However, a straight material substitution isn’t possible because of aluminum’s reduced strength, stiffness and resistance to stress."

Quote from internet source on the automotive use of Aluminum...

I don't have any idea of the actual loads on the strut rods, I will bet the GM engineers DID. and I'll bet they accounted for safety and service life.

Best case your strut rods are 3x the strength to handle the load... Then I way overbuilt mine...

Lets get some of the practicing engineers to chime in.

IMHO
you have some very valid points there. I haven't done the calcs to determine the max load for these struts but you're very right that I should do so before committing to them. Suspension is not a good place to cut corners or make assumptions.

That being said, I have seen several aluminum strut rod setups, none of which were larger than 1" diameter (to my knowledge). Also, I have yet to confirm that the raw material I used was not tempered. I'll give the shop a call to find out.

One other thing I just thought of... yours are 1" diam, .25" wall, whereas mine are solid.
 

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Leaving structural strength differences to the engineers......... as for powder coating, I had a bad experience trying to clear powdercoat aluminum due to some "outgassing" leaving severe bubbles, it is possible this was due to buffing compound residue. We recoated with a textured color then a clear coat and had no problems.
Just FYI, I would suggest discussing with your powder coater. I'm happy with the result but lost the original look. We could still strip and recoat at a future date.
David
 

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Hell, I could be all wet 'cause I wasn't a very good student back in those days. I just dont want to see anyone get hurt especially with the combined engineering knowledge around here...

Imsa Widebody...

Watkins Glen in September... Dinner's on me at Moretti's in Elmira if you let me lay an eyeball on a real live racing setup...

Oh and I almost forgot....

one to add to your sig "Do or do not. There is no try". Yoda

:thumbsup:
 

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if outgassing is a problem or you're worried about heating up the part, have it powdercoated w/ special formulated powder that can be cured w/ UV or IR. It only heats the surface, eliminating those issues. Cast parts tend to outgas, especially if they're contaminated with oils or such.
 

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...Cast parts tend to outgas, especially if they're contaminated with oils or such.
A dishwasher is good for that - seriously! I've scrubbed my parts with thinners or sand blasted them then gone over them with thinners. Then, into the dishwasher on "pot" setting then powder coated the parts. No probs with outgassing yet.:thumbsup:
 

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84rz, we are planning on the Zippo/SVRA at The Glen. I'll take a free dinner any day:thumbsup:
David
 

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A dishwasher is good for that - seriously! I've scrubbed my parts with thinners or sand blasted them then gone over them with thinners. Then, into the dishwasher on "pot" setting then powder coated the parts. No probs with outgassing yet.:thumbsup:
Well, to some extent I can go along with the dishwasher method... I had some nasty looking black (stock - L-81) valve covers that I stripped with "aircraft paint remover" and a $hi^-load of elbow grease. After de-gunking them (and while the other half was out grocery shopping) I loaded them into the dishwasher and ran them through the longest hottest cycle.

I mailed them off for black (glossy) powder-coating and have had zero out-gassing/blistering problems. I don't have a lot of hours on them (maybe 200), but so far, so good....

kdlp
 

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thanks for the replies guys. I think I'll run them through PC tomorrow at work. I was torn between coating them or polishing them a little. Everything else back there is or will be PC black, and I think it'll be a little easier to clean.

I'll let you know if I have any issues. :thumbsup:
 

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Powder coating

I have powder coated a few parts and the best method I have found to prevent outgassing bubbles and other contaminant nasties is:

Clean with degreasers and then acetone

bake the part at a higher temp than the powder coating calls for. (I.e. 450deg if the powder needs 400deg) for at least 30 minutes.

Allow the part to cool slightly but not completely and clean again with acetone. You will probably see some contaminates leeching out of the aluminum after the bake.

continue this untill no more leeching.

powder coat according to instruction.

I know it's a lot of heating/cooling, but this has worked best for me.
Later
 
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