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Discussion Starter #1
I stripped my power steering pump this morning so that I can powder coat it and put a seal kit through it. When I pulled the shaft out, I can see what appear to be score marks on the rotor (read arrow in pic). There is no corresponding marks within the chamber and the vanes are all ok. Are they score marks or machining marks that won't be a problem?



Also, the rotor has quite a bit of slop on the shaft (blue arrow). Again, is this a problem or normal?




One last question, how do I remove the rear bearing in the alternator? Is that a dust cup over the end of the shaft/bearing on the outside? I've stripped the alternator completely but I want to replace the bearing too.



As usual, thanks for any help and sorry for the dull questions... :thumbsup:
 

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That PS pump looks to me like some Saudi Sand blasting material got in there...not right, sure as hell did'nt' leave GM that way....the vanes rub on the outer case, obviously, so the condition of them and that outer case is more critical, don't see how that can be so rough and the rest be fine and smooth, though....

the alt bearing just tapps out with a hammer....remove all the electrical crap first...and be damn sure to tighten hell outta that output +12 stud bolt inside, rebuilders allways leave it loose for some reason....then you get no output, or it's a mess....


OH, uh, edit.....when you clock that alternator, be sure you use a ball bat....
 

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That PS pump looks to me like some Saudi Sand blasting material got in there...not right, sure as hell did'nt' leave GM that way....the vanes rub on the outer case, obviously, so the condition of them and that outer case is more critical, don't see how that can be so rough and the rest be fine and smooth, though....
:agree:

Mine sure didn't look that way when I rebuilt mine. I'm guesing that the outer case will be pretty worn out as well based on the condition of the pump shaft. If you want something to compare it to I've got a few pictures on my website from when I did my power steering pump rebuild.

http://www.corvette-restoration.com/power_steering_pump_rebuild.htm
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the help guys. There was some crap stuck to the magnet inside the pump, but not what I would have thought was outrageous. Like I said, the vanes and the inner chamber surface appear to be ok, but I don't have any size references to check them. The inner chamber surface has some fine marks on it but nothing you can feel with a fingernail. Should the rotor be fairly firm on the shaft or is some slop ok?

Maybe I'll just go and visit some GM spares shops in the morning.

All the electrical "crap" is out of the alternator, just the bearing to go. That'll be the easy bit though, finding new bearings will be a joy :crazy:
 

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Thanks for the help guys. There was some crap stuck to the magnet inside the pump, but not what I would have thought was outrageous. Like I said, the vanes and the inner chamber surface appear to be ok, but I don't have any size references to check them. The inner chamber surface has some fine marks on it but nothing you can feel with a fingernail. Should the rotor be fairly firm on the shaft or is some slop ok?

Maybe I'll just go and visit some GM spares shops in the morning.

All the electrical "crap" is out of the alternator, just the bearing to go. That'll be the easy bit though, finding new bearings will be a joy :crazy:
HE that rear bearing is no sweat, I maybe able to send you one, they cheep around here, some years ago anyway....somehow I sure you can find one easy over there.....but if not....it's a parts house away....OH, BTW, do the front bearing also while you at it....
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have no doubts that SOMEONE here will sell the bearings but finding them is the difficult part.

No Yellow Pages here so you have to either walk or drive around until you find a place or go on word of mouth. Most of the people out here speak English, but the quality varies a great deal so when using the word of mouth option, a LOT can get lost in translation :crazy:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Man, it must be my lucky day. It only took me an hour and a half and I only had to walk about 6 blocks and only had to ask in about 18 spares shops before I found a power steering pump!

No chance on finding a new one but this is "overhauled". It looks nice but I'm about to go out and strip it.

Watch this space...
 

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I couldn't let this one go by without a couple additions.
1) The surface condition of the power steering pump rotor. The critical dimensions on the rotor are its width and the vane slots themselves. Those dimensions are super critical. The rotor diameter is not critical at all. So the diameter and the surface finish were just "hogged" out.

2). The pump pictorial is very good. One correction: The pump driveshaft seal is being pried out of the housing. Not the bushing. I don't even think that the bushing is serviced.

The bushing is down inside the pump housing behind the seal. If you look down into the housing you will see the bushing and a slot in the bushing. The alignment of the slot in the bushing to the pump housing is very critical. The pull of the drive belt must be in line with the bushing slot. Otherwise, the bushing can starve for oil and it can quickly be destroyed.

3). Things to look for as to the condition of the rotating parts in the pump.
A). Look at the condition of the driveshaft where it rides on the pump housing bushing. You shouldn't see any smear marks on the shaft OD. You should not feel any side to side play of the shaft as it rides in the housing bushing. If you have side to side play, you need a new housing.
B). Look at the plates that ride on either side of the pump rotor and vanes. There must not be any score marks on them.
C). Inspect the wear surface on the cam ring where the vanes slide. The cam surface must be smooth with no ripples or score marks.
D). Look at the vanes. The tips must be rounded and smooth.
E). Place the vanes in the rotor slots. They must slide easily but have no slop between the vanes and the slots.
F). Slop between the driveshaft splines and the rotor is normal. This allows the rotor to seek a central place for it to pump.

I am forwarding this message to a retiree who has much more pump experience than I. I will add to this as appropriate.
JIML82
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks Jim, some damn good info there. My old pump was pretty flogged out with some of the symptoms you mention above. The overhauled pump that I bought is in great condition.

Oh, and it's blue now... :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I managed to find some bearings out here and I'm ready to reassemble my alternator. I can see from my pics approximately how far the rear bearing needs to be tapped in, but how much end play should I have once the alternator's assembled?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks Jeff. I'll post some pics soon - flash looking alternator now!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Bling Alternator

Yeah, I know - chrome won't get me home but I like it...



 

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Discussion Starter #20
I like a bit of chrome in an engine bay. I have the alternator, power steering pump and A/C brackets chromed but not much else.

I'll rebuild my power steering pump tomorrow and post pics - it's the same colour. If I get time, I'll powder coat my new master cylinder but it's gonna be red!
 
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