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Discussion Starter #1
Is there a simple way to put the windows back in a 77 w/power? I fought with one for about an hour last night and all I got was frustrated and sweaty! I've got the motor and regulator in now with the bottom track and the angle guide track but can't seem to get it to where I can get the bottom track to bolt up to the window itself. Do the vertical tracks have to go in after this? :huh:
 

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I'm presently trying to finish up my 1977 L-82 resto, and I happen to be trying to install the new power window hardware along with the new door glass. The Three Stooges could have done a better job of it, I'm sure. I'm trying not to mark up the new door glass or the paint job, hence the slow pace. The hardest thing is to put the regulator lever arm roller onto the door glass track channel. I took the glass door track channel off as well as the small lateral track channel off the door. I managed to put the whole thing, and mount the small lateral track channel onto the door and the door glass track channel onto the door glass. Now, I'm trying to replace the brass nuts with the wide flat washer back onto the door glass channel bolts. I just remembered that I forgot to put the Power Window Motor and the Outside Door Glass molding and seal. I spent a whole day on this one side, and that was for practice.
I'll have to take it all out again and re-do the whole thing again... I guess I'm getting better at this as I keep on working this out. :smack :smack

Bizzy77
Plano, TX
 

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I believe it is almost easier to pull an engine and tranny than to R&R a window glass
 

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Don't know if this may help but this is how I have done it.
1 Install the rear vertical channel leave top loose
2 Install regulator make sure roller is in the channel on inside of the door.
3 Install front vertical channel leave top loose
4 Install horizontal Glass channel from the top
5 Install the glass front of glass first holding the back up then lower the back into the rear channel.
6 You may want to run the motor up or down so you can see the glass channel attaching points. I find that closer to up position is better.
7 Attach the glass to the channel.
Remember the power wire goes through the front bottom channel so it doesen't get caught in the moving parts Hope this may help you
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Finally got the driver's window in last night. Not without a fight! And wouldn't you know, after I got it in and all clean, I found that it was scratched from the previous owner's use. Didn't even inspect it before removal. I'm going to see if a glass place can polish the scratches out even a little. It costs too much for new glass!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
That's exactly what I just heard! I found a restoration shop that said they had two that were in great shape that they would part with for $175.00. I should have them soon.:thumbsup: I got one quote from a glass place here in Ft. Worth for $450.00 apiece!!!:rolling:
 

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.....yea. :agree: ....And just after you get the window in you get to mess with the window to weatherstrip alignment!:smack
Thats an interesting point. So you do the stainless wipers (at the top of the door) and the anti-rattle blocks AFTER you install the window?
 

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Art Jett,

You should be able to get the door glass for your c3 for a LOT LESS!!!
I got both my door windows brand new, including shipping, for less than half of what you were quoted ! Let me look it up and I will get back to you in a few minutes...!

Bizzy77
Plano, Texas
 

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Pilkington Glass

Art Jett,

You should be able to order them from Pilkington Glass of Columbus, Ohio.
I think Corvette America helped me with this order. I got it in a week after I ordered the two door glass. They're in my car now...

Bizzy77
:thumbsup: Plano, TX
 
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