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Discussion Starter #1
I am using Josh's adapter plates to install my engine. I had the mounts in the position that puts the engine one inch back and had massive problems trying to get the engine in. I tried to put it in with the 4L60 attached and there seems to be parts of the transmission hitting the fire wall. It seems to be near where the transmission dip stick goes in. The mounts were about 3/4" away from lining up, but no amount of force would allow me to get the engine

I have heard GM were bad with the welding of the mounting points on the frame. If I move the mounts to the other position on the adapter plates are there other clearance issues?-

Do you have any tips?-

Also I need to get new transmission cooling hard lines made up because the original Holden one went to the wrong side of the engine. Should I get the new ones done and on the engine before I try to put the engine in?

Is there enough room to remove the transmission from the engine when it in the car?
 

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Glad to know I'm not the only one that had that issue. I put an LS with a Richmond 6 speed, 621 BBC bellhousing, and tried the 1" setback plates in my 68. Keep in mind, the 1" setbacks still move the motor forward about 1/4"
The 621 bell housing hit the tunnel. Previously the car had a small block bell housing, but the BBC 621 bell housing came in 68 corvettes. My best guess was that the body mounts may has settled and/or glass body sagged. I ended up using different plates.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Josh's plates do have the option not to mount the engine 1" back. But it looks to me like the alternator might hit part of the front crossmember with this orientation.

It does look like its the transmission dip stick that is touching the firewall, have other people swapped that? My other concern is with the transmission cooling lines still not fitted I will have to drop the transmission again to fit them.
 

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Even though I've never done your swap the standard answer for the transmission lines is to put a joint in them. Some guys just use a union somewhere on custom bent lines, others use a section of high quality hose with a threaded fitting that can be disassembled. Kind of depends on how you're running the line but if you knock the section length in half they're removeable for service.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok, got the engine in today. I moved the mounts so the engine sits on the forward position. The problem is though that I can only get one bolt through the mounts and the other mount is off by the distance of the diameter of the bolt hole. I tried lifting the engine and lowering it from different angle and the brute force method but can't get it to settle on the right position. Has any one had problems with mounts not lining up before and a Gen 1 small block? Any safe solutions?
 

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I think our cars must have come off the line on the same day. I had to make a couple 1/4" aluminum spacers between the adapters and chevy mounts.
 

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That is weird that you are having problems getting the engine/trans in. I just installed the 427 LSX/4L60E in Kaos the other day and it literally took me and my brother 5 minutes. I used my plates and had the engine set in the rear-most location. I also used the batwing oil pan and had to slide the wings in-between the motor mount perches and the rack-n-pinion, that made me alittle nervous. Did you have a jack on your trans so you could lift it up as you were sliding the assembly in?

Motor mounts


Engine Assembly



In it goes!






Sliding the Batwing through




And she is in!



 

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Discussion Starter #9
No amount of persuasion could get the engine in when the mounts were in the position that places the engine back. It was literally out by about 1/3" though. Had no problem getting it in though in the other position, just that the mount doesn't line up.

I will post some pictures tonight to show the missalignment.
 

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Are you using tall/narrow ow short/wide mounts?
Custom Image looks like tall narrow, I know mine were short/wide and I needed the spacer.
BTW, I used the batwing oil pan too, it was kind of a pain to get it to clear the "horns".
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Looking at the mounts they have on offer, there appears to be two GM options: one that has a thickness of 2 3/16" and the other 1 3/4".

Which one is correct?
 

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I am using Josh's adapter plates to install my engine. I had the mounts in the position that puts the engine one inch back and had massive problems trying to get the engine in. I tried to put it in with the 4L60 attached and there seems to be parts of the transmission hitting the fire wall. It seems to be near where the transmission dip stick goes in. The mounts were about 3/4" away from lining up, but no amount of force would allow me to get the engine

I have heard GM were bad with the welding of the mounting points on the frame. If I move the mounts to the other position on the adapter plates are there other clearance issues?-

Do you have any tips?-

Also I need to get new transmission cooling hard lines made up because the original Holden one went to the wrong side of the engine. Should I get the new ones done and on the engine before I try to put the engine in?

Is there enough room to remove the transmission from the engine when it in the car?
I,m using the adaptor plate that share the bottom hole of the orig. type mount and my LS1/4L60 went straight in ,no probs. with clearance for the g/box, the commodore g/box dipstick doesnt look anywhere near fitting so a Lokar flexi one will be put on.

This was just a trial fit and now I know where to clearance for the alternator and now my plan is that all the trans stuff will go on before it goes back in again. (my holden trans lines crossed over under the motor )

Plenty of room to remove the trans from the engine in there if you really need to......my cars the 77 which had a TH350 in it .
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Bazza, I positioned my motor mounts on the same point on my adapter plates. The Commodore trans diptstick fitted but I needed to loosen it during install.

What motor mounts did you use? I didn't get a chance to take any photos tonight as I didn't have a camera with me at work, but I will definately take one tomorrow. At this stage I definately think the mounts are too thick which is causing the missalignment.
 

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Bazza, I positioned my motor mounts on the same point on my adapter plates. The Commodore trans diptstick fitted but I needed to loosen it during install.

What motor mounts did you use? I didn't get a chance to take any photos tonight as I didn't have a camera with me at work, but I will definately take one tomorrow. At this stage I definately think the mounts are too thick which is causing the missalignment.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TRD-4592/

I cant measure them as im away at work for next two weeks
 

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That is weird that you are having problems getting the engine/trans in. I just installed the 427 LSX/4L60E in Kaos the other day and it literally took me and my brother 5 minutes. I used my plates and had the engine set in the rear-most location. I also used the batwing oil pan and had to slide the wings in-between the motor mount perches and the rack-n-pinion, that made me alittle nervous. Did you have a jack on your trans so you could lift it up as you were sliding the assembly in?

I don't want to derail this thread but where did you get the intake housing?

:cheers:

Rick B.
 

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It's a Vararam Tri Power goes on Chevy trucks/suv's. Go to Vararam website and you will find it on front page. In my crazy madness to find a CAI I came up with this and sent it to Josh. We are at a decision point right now to make this work or use the L88 hood creating a custom air chamber and a different style intake. As you can see it fits decently except the air tubes are right up against the A-arms making it ever so tight to route some tubing around the sides of the radiator support to get cold air from the front. It's about 4" thick so you will need this room in front of your engine.
 
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