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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've been having a very hard tome getting out in the garage for one on one time between me and the Vette.

A bit of time here and there. Finally though I feel good in that I have almost completely finished the engine bay wiring, which includes the alternator harnesses, re-wiring and re-routing a few bundles of wires, and just making sure everything is loomed and tucked out of the way.

I think it's very clean looking and I'm super happy with it so far. I need to spend some time on the fuel system, throttle system, and upper radiator hose...which is going to be a polished stainless hard hose.

I'll take and upload better pics with better lighting when I have more time. Right now I have a Chief's and Ram's game to watch. MU kicked ass and now it's the MO pro teams that need to step up. :partyon:

Pics:



 

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Mann , That is one Beautiful Motor !

If you get a chance one day

Shoot up a photo of the entire car
 

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Discussion Starter #5
OK I have to ask. Why two alternators?

Here's what I wrote in a previous thread when someone asked the same question. I pretty much have this saved in a text file because this question gets asked so much. :laughing:

Quote:

Okay, first off, what led to it all was that I had removed the A/C from the car. On a V-belt setup not a problem...but with serpentine...which I have, it requires something be there.

I toyed with various delete pulleys but I just didn't like how it looked. On top of that, I like things symmetrical.

I also knew I had a fairly high electrical demand on the car between the stereo, extra lights, extra fans...yata yata yata.

So, I knew I needed more power. I knocked out two birds...with two alternators. I got more power, and I replaced the delete pulley with a symmetrical accessory design.

An added bonus is that because neither has to work full time to keep up with my electrical demands, they won't overheat as most alternators do which is what ultimately kills them.

Wiring is easy. Piggy back everything. The main power wires run to a junction at the starter, which is where they meet the battery 12V. The factory harness wires simply jump from one alternator to the other. In my dealings with car audio I found that an exact synchronization of the two alternators is really only a concern on newer computer controlled cars and trucks.

To summarize, I got a very cool looking symmetrical setup, plenty of power, long term reliability, and a solution to a problem that started it all.

End Quote:

For above, here are a few pics of the car.




 

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DB I think there is something wrong with the last picture, all I see is a beautiful lady,
No car, just a beautiful lady.


With the dual alternator setup you still could tell everyone that its a dual super charger setup.
I know, that was a lame joke.:smack

Riggs.
 

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The symmetry is very nice in that engine compartment. The entire ride looks mint, I'm diggin the seats too.

Nice job all around:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The symmetry is very nice in that engine compartment. The entire ride looks mint, I'm diggin the seats too.

Nice job all around:thumbsup:

Thanks so much.

The seats are from a 2001 Celica GT.

The seat cover is courtesy of Hooters here in Columbia, Miss Hooters International 2009. :partyon:
 

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Is that carb setup going to fit under the hood???
Seems wide? :huh:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Is that carb setup going to fit under the hood???
Seems wide? :huh:

The carbs will fit.

The filter assemblies will not.

However, they are temporary and only for break in.

Once the engine is dialed in, I will remove them, and fabricate a lower profile set of tubes from each side that swoop over and into the fenders, where they will run atop the wheel in the wheel, and back into the nose of the car, where the filters will sit just above the chin spoiler.

The intake tubes will be low profile enough to fit under my L88 hood, and the system will draw cool outside air.
 

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The carbs will fit.

The filter assemblies will not.

However, they are temporary and only for break in.

Once the engine is dialed in, I will remove them, and fabricate a lower profile set of tubes from each side that swoop over and into the fenders, where they will run atop the wheel in the wheel, and back into the nose of the car, where the filters will sit just above the chin spoiler.

The intake tubes will be low profile enough to fit under my L88 hood, and the system will draw cool outside air.
:cool:
 

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Engine compartment looks awesome! Very classic style with the webbers and finned covers yet modernized with the serpentine etc. That a 90s LT1 motor out of a Z28 or Vette?

Nice work on the car....:thumbsup:

Oh and the blond, yeah she'd get it....get it hard...:hump:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The engine plate says LT1 405. Originally when I made that plate the engine was a 400 bored out, same as it is now, but I had LT1 heads and intake with a plan for fuel injection.

That plan changed a few times before I got to where I am now on it. It's still a 405, but it now has Vortec aluminum heads, intake, and carbs.

I'm told there is a company that can modify my Mikuni carbs so it's a fuel injection system.

Here's the new engine plate I had made but have not installed yet. I have to re-paint the flag and letters, then clear it, and install it.

 

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Discussion Starter #15
In term of seating height how are they?

Butt height is about an inch taller than stock, but they are also firmer seats so you don't compress the foam or sink when you sit in them.

I'm 6'1" and I had room with the headliners with these seats.

I have however, since removed the liners and I run my tops with just a coat of paint over the fiberglass instead of the foam liners. That in itself gave me another inch or more of headroom.
 

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NIce job DB I look forward to seeing more work!! :thumbsup:
 
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