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Project JimmyJoe, 10s in 1/4, Under 400 HP on Street Tires, No DR's

8K views 41 replies 11 participants last post by  87vette70TA 
#1 · (Edited)
Since we are going to be redoing what we have already done to car so we can increase the flare width of fenders, I'm removing all post of about build.
 
#2 ·
I am confused what you have going with Junk.
Or against Junk.
Real nice 1964 C2 Vert.

Only have a few questions .
Do You have 2" inch primary header tubes with 3-1/2" collectors ?
Do you have 4.56-4.88 rear diff gears?
Can you launch at 4,000-4,500 & hookup clean and fast ?
Does your engine pull strong to 7,000-7,500 RPM WOT Shifts ?
Really have to drive it real hard to hit 10's.
600 Hp on the ground be more ideal.
 
#5 ·
Ok. Have a good time.
10's are possible .
You will have to use every NHRA SUPER STOCK TRICK KNOWN.

You will find out street car is not a primary concern.

Build a Drag race car 1st.

Street car means just hang license plates.

250 + Hp nitrous shot will be usefull to you eventually .

You dont have 454 BBC OR 455 PONCHO RACE ENGINE.
 
#7 ·
Your car, your vision - don't compromise, build it for yourself and not for what anyone else wants it to be. I admire that in a lot of folks on this forum, whether I agree with their philosophy or not. They want what they want, they know how to get it, and everyone else be damned.

That's what separates winners from losers . . . a single-minded devotion to their goal. Go for it, and good luck. Keep us posted on your progress.
 
#8 ·
Pretty Kool project.
From Show car to 1/4 mile race car.

Didn't know you had a 427 LS - X.

It needs to BREATHE DEEP.
INHALE AND EXHALE FREELY.

Don't pay much attention to chassis dyno numbers.
Just flash numbers.

Make 1/4 mile runs.
Try and make 15- 50 per day.
Gives plenty of chances to practice.
Also analysis of all 1/4 mle data on time slips...All that really counts getting to 10's.
 
#10 ·
to run 10s with less than 400whp you are going to have to lighten it up some and have one helluva 60'.
 
#13 ·
http://robrobinette.com/et.htm

http://www.wallaceracing.com/et-hp-mph.php
(this calculator assumes its rear wheel hp)

your car and the effort your putting into building it, and your ability to post clear pictures of your project, is very impressive, Im forced to point out that to reach your stated goal, your cars power to weight ratio, aerodynamic drag and drive train efficiency,tires and suspensions ability to transfer power to the pavement all come into play here.
yes an impressive start , and if correctly assembled your going to have one very nice car when your done, but I would NOT be so dead set on a 10 second E.T.that only getting close might ruin the build, it will still be a nice car.
the 4l80e TRANS AND ls SERIES ENGINE CERTAINLY HAVE THE POTENTIAL TO GET THE CAR INTO THE TENS but I'd suspect the power level required will exceed 400 hp.
 
#19 ·
Believe me, I understand what your telling me. What I want to do has been done with a street built C2 on 200 Tread wear narrow tires.

Difference is he did it with 650 RWHP and a car weight of around 3450 LBs with driver. 3.90 Rear gear, manual trans and he was able to peddle the car off the line for 1.50/1.60 60' times, but had to granny shift gears to keep from breaking rear tires loose when shifting gears. Painfull to watch him shift, knowing Car most likely could have ran in high 9s with slicks if he didn't have to granny shift it.

I'm thinking I'll need to try and get car in the 2700-2800 lb range with me in it do what I'm trying with HP I've limited myself too.

I'm fairly sure I can get car down to around 2800 lbs range (about 400 lbs less than stock curb weight) without me in it. What I'm worried about is weight roll cage will add to car, but at least most of it's added weight will be behind driver and on rear wheels.

Will have less engine weight as well as less chassis weight with LS engine an aftermarket chassis and suspension I'll be using. Trans's weight will be greater than stock.

Want help that car will have added weight of A/C and power windows, but it's a driver 1st...:rolleyes:

Car's body may have a show car look to it, but car want even be close to being a real show car, just a driver.
I am with You.
Build as you see fit.
You can get there normally aspirated.
Safe way is dead if you want to compete against Hellcats and SRT Vipers.
We don't even have a Corvette Flagship that even stands a chance beating them in the group right now.
MY OWN ANALYSIS .

THERE IS A MECHANIC WITH A POLAR WHITE 1970 TRANS AM IN HIS AVIATOR HERE ON DIGITAL CORVETTE THAT CHOOSES FAST OVER SAFE.
 
#15 ·
Ooohh, we are a wee bit on the sensitive side I see. ;)

Not everyone has the same taste in everything. Caviar is the dish of the rich and famous but I don't care how rich or famous I get, don't bring me any kind of dead fish that ain't baked or deep fried. Like I said in the heavy hitters thread, one man's heavy hitter may be another man's nice car. That's not a personal stab at anyone, just one man's opinion. ;)
 
#18 ·
Well back to build and maybe educate JM on copying other's work Vs doing it your way, or maybe I'm just letting him know he should follow up on what he said/wrote, or correct it so it's not misleading to some of us who bother to have read it and was expecting due credit if they met all the stated rules posted....:rolling: :devil:
Lol! If your entire life is based on what people think of you on some Internet forum, then you have one sucky-ass life! Sorry, but your car was NOT voted as being the shizzle. I'm sorry if people don't think of you as YOU obviously do. Get over it and get laid. Pussy reduces stress when you find the right woman (or women, as I prefer)! :laughing:
 
#28 ·
THAT is one smooth looking build. Everything seems to flow together. Great job..........so far. Don't screw "our" car up. It does have that Pro Street vibe to it and that's all good.:thumbsup:
 
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