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Discussion Starter #1
I have the VB and P stainless lines oring calipers.

After reading about Gkull I wanted to help my brakes a bit.

Wilwoods are not in the budget and I don't want the dynalites.

I will use this fluid. http://www.reddevilbrakes.com/catalog/item/885254/459041.htm

I was thinking of a plate between the piston [insulator in my case] and pad that is coated in a thermal barrier.

That is about it. Although there is brake ducts but those are pretty straight forward. One 3" duct will be in place at first. That is if I ever get the dam thing to fit. :bang It shouldn't be to bad with it at the center of the rotor. I just couldn't get it on, on the out side of the rotor(wrong position BTW)
 

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Chris,
"Wet" boiling point is the number thats most important to me....the best fluid (which is also the most expensive) is SRF with a wet boiling point of 518*....necessary on the street or an occasional HPDE?? doubtful....
...redvetracr
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yeah I did know the wet is more important but the fluid I posted says it's o-ring safe. Whats the difference between wet and dry?
 

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Yeah I did know the wet is more important but the fluid I posted says it's o-ring safe. Whats the difference between wet and dry?

fluid is dry until you open the can (or bottle), brake fluid absorbes moisture at a very high rate........for the street you might as well use the Ford stuff....
...Howard

PS: I wouldn`t use o-rings on a race car if VB&P gave me a free set...which they did!!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I am going to be using the o-ring calipers for awhile

We are going to sebring the 26th and the car isn't on the street.

Are you saying lip seals are better than o-rings?
 

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o-ring pistons were a disaster for me...and I had the good billet ones from ZTI...it was an expensive time consuming mistake...I rebuilt my calipers with my trusty J-56 stuff right there at the race track and really haven`t had a problem since.
...Howard
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I assume the j56 stuff is lip seals. Hopefully they will work for me. My car won't be pushed as hard as yours either.
 

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I assume the j56 stuff is lip seals. Hopefully they will work for me. My car won't be pushed as hard as yours either.
If you can`t afford Wilwoods you can`t afford a set of J-56 pistons...thats "if" you could find a useable set, and no the insulators sold by VB&P are not even close...yes to the lip seals.
...Howard
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I can't afford the j56's, nor the wilwoods, nor really anything else as far as upgraded calipers go. I think the thermal barrier should help a bit. When combined with the insulators should be a lot better than what Gkull was running. Not to mention the brakes ducts that will help a lot.


Any reason why I can't have pistons machines like wilwood pistons? I know a guy that machines stainless as his job and does thing for free after hours.

 

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because the seal is in the pistons, not in the bore (stupid design), this way you will not be able to use a cup type piston like that, you need the piston to be mostly solid for the lip seal groove. The ONLY way to get it right is to have a machine shop machine a groove for a square seal in the bore (you won't need fancy stainless bores, a rusty bore will do also LOL) and then have some custom stainless pistons machined. It would be costly if you can't DIY but it would be the ultimate stock caliper upgrade.

Check out all the alter floater style caliprs (like on trucks and such), they all use a square bore seal and a polished piston. It's easier to make a smooth piston than a smooth bore...too bad the caliper designers didn't notice that when they designed the stockers
 

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Wilwood Superlites are about 200 bucks per caliper loaded with pads?

Forged Billet Dynalites are even less...

Racing costs money... If you cant afford racing parts then you have to be creative... like Turtle said some homemade insulators and brake ducts for less than 200 bucks for saftey... seems cheap to me.

I haven't had a car on the track but I have MANY years on a bike...

Some rules of thumb:

You don't win practice

Don't leave for the track until everything is tested and it is safe. (needen a body bag for a few hundred dollars of brakes or preparation/testing time is not the best decision that could be made)

Don't Crash

Don't Sieze (because it leads Directly to don't crash, and be cause I'm an old timer and real racing machinery and riders only needed two strokes :D)

Bone stock racing is where its at to build skills Seat Time Seat Time Seat Time Seat Time.

On any given day there will always be someone faster than you.

Spend your money on safety equipment and SEAT TIME. Speed will come later....

:smack
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'll see how the calipers are. I don't know If I'll get the insulators done by the 26th. I don't even know if I can run yet. But my dad will run it either way.


Thanks for the tips :thumbsup:

Also I think video games that have the track your going to run help you familiarize yourself with it. My cousin did it before he went and raced at infeneon in the cars one step under busch.

I can't see them hurting anything either. Except the expensive steering wheel. :down:
 

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I'll see how the calipers are. I don't know If I'll get the insulators done by the 26th. I don't even know if I can run yet. But my dad will run it either way.


Thanks for the tips :thumbsup:

Also I think video games that have the track your going to run help you familiarize yourself with it. My cousin did it before he went and raced at infeneon in the cars one step under busch.

I can't see them hurting anything either. Except the expensive steering wheel. :down:
You're welcome Grasshopper :) :laughing:

One last tip... Saftey Wire ANYTHING/EVERYTHING that you dont want to come loose.

The ONLY exception is be careful with High Pressure stuff like brakelines.

BTW at some point you WILL Crash if you are really racing. You will need to find the edge carefully and sneak up on it otherwise it will BITE you.

:partyon:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Safety wire? You mean like bolts and stuff? I'll go get some red loctite for the spindles tommorow. I took them apart tonight to change rotors.

Please enlighten me on what you mean by everything :D

I've seen it in speedway motors but never really thought anything of it.
 

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Safety wire? You mean like bolts and stuff? I'll go get some red loctite for the spindles tommorow. I took them apart tonight to change rotors.

Please enlighten me on what you mean by everything :D

I've seen it in speedway motors but never really thought anything of it.
Turtlevette is giving good advice: Read the rule book for the sanctioning orgnization.

that said....

http://www.irvansmith.com/tech7.htm

Or

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Safety_wire


or the source... Google safety wire techniques

:cheers:
 
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