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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I got the shock mounts off and the tie rods/ bracket out so far. Also the rear spring. Tomorrow I hope I can drop the diff. I'm just going to leave the TA's on.

I'm going to get fk rod ends for the rear tie-rods also. They are 20 bucks each on ebay :surprised http://www.fkrodends.com/

I'm not going to rebuild the diff either. I'll check it out to make sure it's fine and change the fluid also. What fluid would you recommend?

Also I think I'm gonna go with red locktite instead of safety wire. I don't have enough time for safety wire.

For the mods I'll get rid of the diff bushings and raise it 3/4 of an inch. Then use the smart strut bracket that lowers it .5".

I'm also thinking about drilling and tapping for a rear end cooler eventually. Would a 3/8 pipe tap be big enough? That would be like -6 an. Also where do I drill them?


Any thing you guys would recommend that I'm not doing.
 

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gtr1999 has got the good french locks for the half shafts- I'd use them AND locktite just to be sure. For just locktite, there is a primer you spray on then apply the locktite and torque.

And the rear cooler- I'd use a 1/2 pipe tap and put one way low in the bottom for a pickup and set the return high so it dumps back on top of the carrier. 90W gear oil is so thick that a 3/8 probably won't make it. You'll need some type of pump to make it circulate and good sense dictates a filter/strainer too. Unless you're going to run very fast for long periods of time, I think it may be more hassle than it's worth.
 

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gtr1999 has got the good french locks for the half shafts- I'd use them AND locktite just to be sure. For just locktite, there is a primer you spray on then apply the locktite and torque.

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Not to highjack but I did not use lock tite on my half shafts, I just torqued and used new french locks. Should I be worried??
 

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NO-- the french locks were GM's deal. Worked very well for many years. They used them on half shafts, exhaust manifolds and probably some places I don't remember. Don't worry about them.. Locktite works if you don't have new locks, or if you like to "overdo" things.

:cheers:
 

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NO-- the french locks were GM's deal. Worked very well for many years. They used them on half shafts, exhaust manifolds and probably some places I don't remember. Don't worry about them.. Locktite works if you don't have new locks, or if you like to "overdo" things.

:cheers:
Thanks Tim, I have just put a couple grand in complete rebuild of my rear suspension. It was my first big install like this and I would hate to screw it up because I didnt install fastners properly. :cheers:
 

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I'm also thinking about drilling and tapping for a rear end cooler eventually. Would a 3/8 pipe tap be big enough? That would be like -6 an. Also where do I drill them?
Oh boy Chris, maybe I shouldn't even say anything, but while reading masses of info about my diff rebuild, I remember seeing a complete how-to article for a diff cooler. But I had papers from a dozen sources I was reading and can't remember who it was. "Vette Improvement Program" from the "Corvette FAQ" site keeps popping into my head. (You should read that entire series anyway, if you haven't already.) If it wasn't there, it was from some rear-end website.....I'll staple a sticky note on my lunchsack to look tonite when I get home, but no guarantee---I know just where it is: mixed in a 6" pile of loose downloaded papers on the shelf in the workshop, or in the 3" stack on the shelf by the workbench, or in the looseleaf binder labeled "chassis" or maybe the one about "engine & driveline"....or in with the receipts & installation info from the driveline job which I have yet to file away.......:lookinup:
But try the "VIP"--lotta good stuff in there from the days before folks like VBP & others made all the bolt on goodies.:thumbsup:

Good Luck
John
 

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I rebuilt a 63 Z-06 diff last year and the oil cooling lines were in the cover. If I recall they used the fill hole - 3/4 npt and bushed it to 1/2 npt and tapped a 1/2 or 3/8 Npt hole for the other fitting.
 

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IMO the best way is NOT to use the fill hole. Rather drill the bottom side of the lid for the suction side and drill the top of the diff case above where the pinion meets the ring gear for the feed. Then you can fill your diff while running the pump, the whole cooling system will fill up and burp the air, all the time you add fluid untill it comes out the filler plug hole. This way you will have a good fluid level in the diff and a completely filled system. If you use the filler plug you can use it for a return, not a suction because then the fluid level would have to be higher. For a return it also means that it'll be hard to figure out how much fluid it needs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
How long would it take to get heated up enough to need it anyways?

At sebring each session is 45 minutes. I could do longer ones eventually also.




Also how do I get the dust shields off? do the TA's have to be completely disassembled?
 

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put a temp indicator strip on the case and run the thing as hard as you can, then check how hot it got. Only way to tell fer sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Oh boy Chris, maybe I shouldn't even say anything, but while reading masses of info about my diff rebuild, I remember seeing a complete how-to article for a diff cooler. But I had papers from a dozen sources I was reading and can't remember who it was. "Vette Improvement Program" from the "Corvette FAQ" site keeps popping into my head. (You should read that entire series anyway, if you haven't already.) If it wasn't there, it was from some rear-end website.....I'll staple a sticky note on my lunchsack to look tonite when I get home, but no guarantee---I know just where it is: mixed in a 6" pile of loose downloaded papers on the shelf in the workshop, or in the 3" stack on the shelf by the workbench, or in the looseleaf binder labeled "chassis" or maybe the one about "engine & driveline"....or in with the receipts & installation info from the driveline job which I have yet to file away.......:lookinup:
But try the "VIP"--lotta good stuff in there from the days before folks like VBP & others made all the bolt on goodies.:thumbsup:

Good Luck
John
Just checked, it was in there :thumbsup:
 

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well, it will cool down a bit. The strips are cheap and easy, they will give you the peak temp. Why dick around when there's easy to use stuff available??? An IR gun is more expensive than a small sticker.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
well, it will cool down a bit. The strips are cheap and easy, they will give you the peak temp. Why dick around when there's easy to use stuff available??? An IR gun is more expensive than a small sticker.
I already have a gun ;)

But I'll get these also

http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?form_prod_id=167,49,363_1993&action=product

I would like the paint also but don't want to spend 60 bucks.




Also is there any wheel bearing grease that is for high temps? thats cheap?

I guess 30 dollars is a pretty decent price.

http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?form_prod_id=386,378,363_133&action=product
 

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Ok TT made me go look up my job files to find this!:thud:

Here is the rear cover as I recieved it. I don't know who did this since the
60's but the car was raced at Daytona from what I was told.

They tapped the fill plug in fact.





To get the rear plates off you have to take it apart. So you're going to have to rebuild the arms or just cut them off

Here is the plate without the spindle installed
 

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not that you need a cooler with synthetic gear lube but the Chevy power book tells you exactly where the boys at GM suggest you drill the cover.....have you priced a diff lube pump lately??
redvetracr
 

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Cris,
If you are going to turn 9,000RPM's at Daytona for 4 hours, I can see a diff cooler. With a 45 minute autocross, I think it's a little overkill. When you get more serious, or more demanding driving, you can always add it later. My 2 cents.
 
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