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Hi, took my son for little ride in car to feel thump in rear or drive train. Let him drive down driveway, he goosed the gas , bad idea ...

Something let go in drive train. Stopped car, no drive shafts hanging, but...

Car will only go forward or backward one revolution of wheel then stops. It will do it in all 4 gears forward and reverse.

Called flatbed, to get car back to my garage.

It seems that the rear let go....

I get the car up on jack stands.... time for rear end removal/ strut rods bushing, body mounts, tranny removal, and if possible crossmember , later after rear removal..plus a lot of stuff that is showing wear after 60,000 miles in the last three years.

I will ask for help after the weekend , just to make sure I take it apart in the right order....

It will be a real job to do on jack stands....I may offer some Lobsters for lunch as a reward for coming up to Maine to get the tranny off my chest or to help pry the crossmember off the frame...

Pictures later.....Son leaving Sunday, for new job in Seattle at Amazon as a robotics engineer...

Thanks in advance for you kindness and understanding , and supporting me as I cry under the car.......should be quite interesting...

Jack
 

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As the Prophets said in Halo , " It is time to begin the Great Journey"

Hi to all my wonderful friends out there in Corvette Land

I would love to have some one do the repairs, but I thought this would be a good time to have all the forum members come along for the ride. A lift would make it much easier, but that is not going to happen.

Today I turn the heat on in the garage, set the stage for major surgery, take photos for the before and as I do each step.

If I get into trouble , I will call for help, mostly , it is good to have an extra set of hands, if not just to drag me out from under the car.

It will also be a testament to modern Human Replacement Parts.

I have both hips and knees that have new joints, both wrists and ankles have been worked on and lets not even talk about my shoulders.

If I can drive Thousands of miles, fix my car, go to the gym, then so can many of you out there who may be putting off such work.

Give yourself a life.....if you need it, get it done...

Pictures to follow later today ....waiting for the garage to warm up..

Jack
 

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hey Jack, sorry to hear about the rear end! Wish I were closer so I could lend a hand, but I'm sure the many forum friends you've made along the way will get you through this project. Always nice to try something new and learn along the way. Lots of research and reading ahead of you, but with a little care and diligence you'll be back on the road before you know it :thumbsup:
 

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Wait a minute. How does he get to break the car then leave town?:laughing:

On to the repairs, keep us posted. I'm too far away to help, we could have used my lift. I will send you warm thoughts from Florida, I was sweating taking my Christmas lights down today.
 

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I have both hips and knees that have new joints, both wrists and ankles have been worked on and lets not even talk about my shoulders.
Awwww Hell Jack, these are the "Golden Years". They should have called them the titanium years because that what my hips are made of. Your's too I'll bet. If I could find that silly bastard that called these the Golden Years, I'd stomp on him with both my titanium hips until my bypasses blew out. I'll bet that phrase was coined by a buxom, bespeckled, 25 year old college girl. We know that's not the truth.:laughing:
 

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Awwww Hell Jack, these are the "Golden Years". They should have called them the titanium years because that what my hips are made of. Your's too I'll bet. If I could find that silly bastard that called these the Golden Years, I'd stomp on him with both my titanium hips until my bypasses blew out. I'll bet that phrase was coined by a buxom, bespeckled, 25 year old college girl. We know that's not the truth.:laughing:
Start calling you Silver Lighting Gunny.
All the Titanium in you.
Pretty Envious Really.
Better than 6-million Dollar Man Big G IS.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Day 1 of the Great Journey

So it begins...Day 1

I started today working on the car. Turned on heater in garage, keeps it about 50* if outside is below 32* and warmer if above.

First goal was to jack up car to view damage if possible

Next remove mufflers
Next to remove half shafts

Time 3 hours . One problem was not being able to rotate wheels more than 1 / 4 turn. That made unbolting haft shafts difficult because of small turns of wrench at odd angles on u-joint nuts.

There is little doubt that my rear end is dead.....

Now what to do next. Carrier bolts from cross member will never come out. It will be very difficult to unbolt the rear from carrier as there is no room to get at top bolts.

My sombreros are shot (48 years old) the only way I will get the rear out of the car is to take off the cross member with the rear end.

All the components (Strut rods bushing shot) , springs, drive shaft, have to be take off to drop the rear.

I am on my back doing this. Any suggestion on my next days work will be welcome. I am soaking all in penetrating oil .

Here some pictures of today's work

Car is ready



Getting ready



Up it goes and I hope not down on me



Stable I hope



Wheels off for room, but had to put them back on to rotate wheel



Haft Shafts Off ...one little turn at a time because or lock up of rear



This is the view - what to take off first ?



End of the day

 

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Beautiful 1966 Corvette Vert :cheers:

You will have the Iron IRS Rear out tomorrow.

Use a long handle 3/8" & 1/2" drive ratchets.
Try and avoid air impact wrenches.
Avoid breaking bolts that way.
Not making flat rate time in a shop.
Its American Pride & Joy I see.

Not Bullshit from china.

They all break down eventual.
It can be fixed.

:thumbsup:

BR
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Day2 of the Great Journey

Hello and good morning to all. 9:30 am

Turned on heat as it was 27* in the garage . Will start work at 40*

Goals for today:

Take off rear spring without killing myself . I put on new height bolts so I am familiar with it. Main spring was new in 2004 , so bolts should come out with my big torque wrench.

Take off Strut bracket and rods , make need shock knocker later

Take off snuber bushing and bracket

Disconnect drive shaft

I will post pictures later in the day of my progress. Feel free to offer advice on any of the procedures that I am attempting in about 1 hour (10:30 am EST)

Need to sit in whirlpool first to loosen up for the up coming tasks

Jack
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Day2 of the Great Journey Pictures Update

Day 2

Hello and good Evening to all. 8:30 pm

I put in 3 1/2 hours or work today and quit around 2:30 pm . I had to stop because of lack of a shock knocker, ( found one tonight) and it was time to stand up.

Goals for today:

Take off rear spring without killing myself
Take off Strut bracket and rods ,
Need shock knocker to remove strut rod from spindle arm
and bracket

I was able to remove rear spring using a simple method of two jacks, one to hold trailing arm and one to compress spring in order to release tension on bolts.

I was also able to remove strut bracket , but had to leave in place until I can remove rods from spindle with shock knocker.

Once strut bracket is removed, I will remove snubber bushing , disconnect drive shaft and make decision on cross member removal/carrier removal to take out rear.

Here are the pictures

Support of spring / TA , jack is holding up shock mount not rotor



Unbolting nut by compressing spring with jack



Lower spring jack and down comes spring freeing bolt



Bolt free of spring and can now be pushed up and out



Spring can now be unbolted from carrier



Spring can now be removed



Shocks are freed from spindle , but left bolted on top



Rear End now free , ready for next days work , once strut bracket is removed when rods are free of shock mounts.



Parts on the floor, good 2 days work (7 hours slow me ) without any broken bolts !

 

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Discussion Starter #12
Day 3 of the Great Journey Happy New Years 2015

Day 3 "The Great Journey moving along"

Happy New Year to one and all !

Garage on got to 48* today, not bad, since it was 18* when I turned the heat on. Started at 4 PM , lots of other errands to do.

Stopped at 6 pm about 2 hours work today. After all it is NYE.

Today the goal was to remove the strut rod bracket intact. The rods are attached to the TA and the strut mount must be knocked out of the TA in order to release rod from spindle assembly.

I had also hoped to remove the snub bushing which would have allowed me to disconnect the drive shaft. That was not to happen , ran out of time and I could not figure out how to attach a wrench to the bolt that hold the snub bushing, The nut is easy to get to, but without locking the top of bolt , it will just spin.

I will just crack nut or cut it of and pull down snub bracket. Disconnect drive shaft and then the FUN Begins. See that Crow Bar, Soon we do the " Sombrero Dance"

Cheers Jack

We may need this soon !



Home made "Shock Knocker "



Punch to finish job after heat and a few hard whacks with a hammer



Rod now free of spindle assembly



High Tech Tools Shock Mount is out and looks a little bent after 48 years




Strut Bracket Intact and free of rear and spindle



Day 3 Parts Collection



The "Sombrero Dance " Tomorrow if I can move....

 

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Discussion Starter #13
Day 4 of the Great Journey Happy New Years 2015

Day 4 of " The Great Journey " Rear End / Sombrero Removal

Happy New Years to All :woohoo:

Today's Goal was to finish the job of removing the rear end from the car. 2 hours time 1 hour work 1 hour crawl time ...lol

I needed to remove the cross member which requires the removal of the Sombrero Bushings / Nuts the hold cross member to frame. After 48 years of driving in the North East on salted roads and 300,000 miles , you would think all the nuts, bolts and rust would cause a great deal of problems.

Well , not one bolt or nut broke so far. The cross member to my disappointment , did not pop off. The bolts came right out

( I left them in when prying)

The cross member just came off with gentle pressure of the pry bar.

The most difficult part was getting the u-joint nuts off . The rear is locked up and you can not rotate the drive shaft. After dropping the rear down with cross member , I was able to do each nut .

The snuber bracket bushing was difficult because it is hard to put a wrench on the top bolt while you undo the bottom nut.

Tomorrow I will take the rear off the carrier and see what is left of the insides....

The job took 2 hours today 1 hour of work and 1 hour of crawl time on my back. It has taken me about 10-12 hours to get to this stage .

With a lift that time would be about 3-4 hours . Stay tuned for the opening of the rear tomorrow !

What I would like to be able to do later



Gentle prying , cross member came right off - bolts came right out



Cross member now free - both sides came off - no problems



Rear supported by jack as work on drive shaft u-joints



Rear End / Cross member now free of car in dolly



Sombreros after 48 years !





Rear End at Rest



Day 4 Parts Collection

 

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Day 5 of the Great Journey

Day 5 " The Great Journey " Oh my God ! Look at that !

Goals for today : Remove rear from cross-member and open rear end to see what happen to it.

A lesson to be learned. I have been driving this car for almost 300,000 miles in the North East and just about everywhere else. Winter and Summer , salt and rain. And not one bolt was rusted in or broke trying to take it out.

It is sitting for years that rust these cars. Cars that are driven may get surface rust, but it seems the heat and oil must perserve the parts in some way. Sure , they wear out, but I never thought in a million years that the bolts would come out of the rear carrier. But I used a little heat and also used a bolt-out socket by Irwin Tools. It cuts into bolt or nut will take out rounded parts.

I thought it best to use it first before a regular socket. I big breaker bar and very slow turning and out came all the bolts on the cross-member and rear carrier.

Once the cover was off, it was very apparent what happen as you can see. The drive pinion gear was able to move backward into the Posi unit. The ring gear looks OK ....Posi not so good....

Comments are welcome. Any 3:36 posi rears not being used ?

Heating up the cross member bolts. I used a big breaker bar and Irwin Socket (nut / bolt extractor socket) first before I even tried a regular socket



Bolts that I though would never come out , came out



Cover ready to be taken off , what will we find ?



Not very pretty







Day 5 Parts Collection

 

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Wow, that ring gear does look great for 300,000 miles. There ae a few 3.36 posi rears on Ebay priced from $300-$800. Several were low miles 60K or so. Looks like a rebuilt rear with new ring and pinion can be had for about a grand. What are your plans? Rebuild yours or go with another. There are guys on this forum that will do you a good job at a reasonable price. Just put out a call for help.:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Put a 3:36 in

Wow, that ring gear does look great for 300,000 miles. There ae a few 3.36 posi rears on Ebay priced from $300-$800. Several were low miles 60K or so. Looks like a rebuilt rear with new ring and pinion can be had for about a grand. What are your plans? Rebuild yours or go with another. There are guys on this forum that will do you a good job at a reasonable price. Just put out a call for help.:thumbsup:
I know I want back my 3:36 , I don't know yet which way to go.
Rebuild this one with a 3:36 ....or

Use this one for a core and get one ready to go ....

I can't do the rebuild myself....out of my scope of knowlege

We will see want turns up.

Jack
 

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Hi Jack
Boy that sure looks beat up! The pinion hit posi case, is there a lot of play in the pinion yoke? That is a 65-68 posi case and the fact you got 300k miles on it is rare indeed, or did I read you replaced it at some point? Those postage stamp window cases were weak and often cracked in half with some abuse.

You have some options now. All depends on your budget and driving style. I don't think you are racing it or plan to so you don't need a super 10 or 12 bolt type build. A nice blueprinted 10 bolt is what I would do but you might be able to source a good used 336 - JUST BE CAREFUL, I can't stress that enough. Most of the used diff's I see need work, some are just junk. I had a real nice one here that I bought to build. It was a 75 336 and someone did do a basic rebuild to it, a vendor type rebuild. I wouldn't use one of those so I put it on the bench to do. The next day a local guy came and needed a diff like you do so I sold it to him for $450. He put it in the car the next day and was on the road again.

So here are your options

1- Find a good used 336, look for a 71-79 because they have the better posi case and spiders in them. Most are 308's from automatic cars but those aren't beat up like a 4 spd diff is. He you can find one from the original owner then you are more likely to get a history on it. You see want to see inside and look at the posi case for cracks. The axles maybe shot if it's from a 73-79 but yours will work if they are not worn down. An out of the car not rebuild diff should be in the $300-$500 range. Anymore then that and I wouldn't buy it, since it should be gone over- at least that is what I would do.

2-Rebuild yours- vendor type build. Your housing,cover, and axels may still be good. If this has the old style R&P you will need a new yoke too. You will need a posi case. You can buy a new loaded case, that is what a vette shop would sell you most likely. They run about $550 from Jegs or Summit. They would not be my choice. The cases are ok, not as good as the Eaton cases supplied to GM but ok. The clutches are fiber coated with huge yellow springs, less clutches per side then a stock vette posi too. The spiders are not as strong. The fiber rubbed off in my fingers when I looked over a set. They will work and maybe for your use it will be fine. 336 gears are sold by all the vette suppliers, the last USA made gears are Tom's (US Gear) those are what you want , I would not use any other. Tom is out of 336 right now but he sold about 200 sets to vendors the last month so they're out there just depends on what price they are marked up to.

3 Build yours with a polished and tuned NOS posi- that is what I would do. It will cost more up front but it will be a better job. Step up to a set of 10-17 spiders in place of the old 10-18's, Tom's 336, ARP bolts, and you will be good into the 400hp range.

You're a pretty smart guy so do your homework first. If you have any questions let me know.:thumbsup:

Gary
 

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Boy that sure looks beat up! The pinion hit posi case, is there a lot of play in the pinion yoke? That is a 65-68 posi case and the fact you got 300k miles on it is rare indeed, or did I read you replaced it at some point? Those postage stamp window cases were weak and often cracked in half with some abuse.

You have some options now. All depends on your budget and driving style. I don't think you are racing it or plan to so you don't need a super 10 or 12 bolt type build. A nice blueprinted 10 bolt is what I would do but you might be able to source a good used 336 - JUST BE CAREFUL, I can't stress that enough. Most of the used diff's I see need work, some are just junk. I had a real nice one here that I bought to build. It was a 75 336 and someone did do a basic rebuild to it, a vendor type rebuild. I wouldn't use one of those so I put it on the bench to do. The next day a local guy came and needed a diff like you do so I sold it to him for $450. He put it in the car the next day and was on the road again.

So here are your options

1- Find a good used 336, look for a 71-79 because they have the better posi case and spiders in them. Most are 308's from automatic cars but those aren't beat up like a 4 spd diff is. He you can find one from the original owner then you are more likely to get a history on it. You see want to see inside and look at the posi case for cracks. The axles maybe shot if it's from a 73-79 but yours will work if they are not worn down. An out of the car not rebuild diff should be in the $300-$500 range. Anymore then that and I wouldn't buy it, since it should be gone over- at least that is what I would do.

2-Rebuild yours- vendor type build. Your housing,cover, and axels may still be good. If this has the old style R&P you will need a new yoke too. You will need a posi case. You can buy a new loaded case, that is what a vette shop would sell you most likely. They run about $550 from Jegs or Summit. They would not be my choice. The cases are ok, not as good as the Eaton cases supplied to GM but ok. The clutches are fiber coated with huge yellow springs, less clutches per side then a stock vette posi too. The spiders are not as strong. The fiber rubbed off in my fingers when I looked over a set. They will work and maybe for your use it will be fine. 336 gears are sold by all the vette suppliers, the last USA made gears are Tom's (US Gear) those are what you want , I would not use any other. Tom is out of 336 right now but he sold about 200 sets to vendors the last month so they're out there just depends on what price they are marked up to.

3 Build yours with a polished and tuned NOS posi- that is what I would do. It will cost more up front but it will be a better job. Step up to a set of 10-17 spiders in place of the old 10-18's, Tom's 336, ARP bolts, and you will be good into the 400hp range.

You're a pretty smart guy so do your homework first. If you have any questions let me know.
Just a wild guess here but it sure sounds like Gary knows his ****.:laughing: Lot of good comments about his work also. It sounds to me like he's been there, done that, got the refrigerator magnet and the t-shirt.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Day 6 of the Great Journey

Just a wild guess here but it sure sounds like Gary knows his ****.:laughing: Lot of good comments about his work also. It sounds to me like he's been there, done that, got the refrigerator magnet and the t-shirt.
Hi and thank you for the suggestions. Today I am going to open it up to see what happened.

I have watched a few video's by Tom's , to see how you tune a posi unit and how a rear is put together.

Gary does great work as I have used him before for my steering box.

It seems that you really have to take the time to put in the posi discs , spin it, shim it , spin it , shim it , till you feel the right tension.

Pre loading was very important....so I learned a lot.

Stay tuned, for the opening later

Good Morning ,

Today I will take off caps and Posi Unit and see what is behind the mess.

Jack


 
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