Corvette Forum : DigitalCorvettes.com Corvette Forums banner

1 - 20 of 29 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My 93 is makine strange noises around the left rear wheel. An occaisional clicking noise when acelerating from a stop and now a slight rubbing/squeeking sound that comes and goes. It happens mainly when accelerating and braking. When coasting, the rubbing/squeeking goes away.

My mechanic has checked everything around the rear end, suspension, bushings, brakes, u-joints and says everything is ok. He also test-drove the car and said he couldn't hear the noises that I hear. Hmmmmm? Could he have missed something? ANybody else have this type of problem.
Any ideas are appreciated. :huh:
 

·
DC PIT CREW BOSS
Joined
·
39,545 Posts
Was it a gradual happening or all at once? have you ridden with him and talked about the noises together.Do you trust your mechanic? If not, find another one. If you do, get a louder exhaust.
 

·
DC Crew
Joined
·
53,220 Posts
Mike said:
My 93 is makine strange noises around the left rear wheel. An occaisional clicking noise when acelerating from a stop and now a slight rubbing/squeeking sound that comes and goes. It happens mainly when accelerating and braking. When coasting, the rubbing/squeeking goes away.

My mechanic has checked everything around the rear end, suspension, bushings, brakes, u-joints and says everything is ok. He also test-drove the car and said he couldn't hear the noises that I hear. Hmmmmm? Could he have missed something? ANybody else have this type of problem.
Any ideas are appreciated. :huh:
Hmm... the clicking could have been a tape wheel-weight coming off.

The rubbing though... possibly unrelated.... does it co-incide with RPM?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Yes, I trust my mechanic. No I did not ride with him, I'll do that if it persists. The noises just started all of a sudden. I'm thinking now that the squeeking may be related to my rubber muffler hangars. When I wiggle the exhaust tips, I get a squeek which might be more pronounced when the exhaust is hot. The muffler may be rubbing on the inside of the tire as well? I will check that out. THe clicking is still a mystery. Ya, a louder exhaust or maybe just turn up the radio another notch.
 

·
DC Crew
Joined
·
53,220 Posts
Mike said:
Yes, I trust my mechanic. No I did not ride with him, I'll do that if it persists. The noises just started all of a sudden. I'm thinking now that the squeeking may be related to my rubber muffler hangars. When I wiggle the exhaust tips, I get a squeek which might be more pronounced when the exhaust is hot. The muffler may be rubbing on the inside of the tire as well? I will check that out. THe clicking is still a mystery. Ya, a louder exhaust or maybe just turn up the radio another notch.
The muffler should be no where near the tire. So you can rule that out.

I would put some white grease, or other long-lasting grease on the rubber parts of the hangers. That will eliminate that as a possibility.

Now, in my 96, my shock absorbers were perfect. Within a month, they went to complete ****!

What started happening is that under acceleration or braking (when the weight of the car would shift) I would get a sound almost like a baby bird. The shocks were really blown out, so I replaced them all. No more issues, and a WAY better ride.

It's possible the groan you are hearing is the up down motion of a wasted shock(s). I had that too. The groaning sound was really weird... almost more like a dull low frequency moan. It would be more prominent when I'd take out the car for the first time in the day, or if it gets cold outside. (when the car is stiff)

Heck, it could be just one shock. And, you can't always tell with the old test of bouncing the car up and down, because the other shocks would keep things steady - and you cannot possibly push down or bounce the car with the same force that driving around would do. So, you may not hear it this way.

It's not difficult to remove the rear shocks completely, and compress them by hand to see if they are toast. If they don't budge, the are just fine. It'd take a mechanic with a lift about 15 minutes to test out.

If any of the shocks are bad, I'd recommend getting new Bilsteins from Mid America. I got the Z51 shocks (greatly improved handling) and my total was $299 for 4.
 

·
DC Crew
Joined
·
53,220 Posts
-=Jeff=- said:
Mike, Did he check the 1/2 shaft U-joints? I had these same noises a while back (year or So) well this year I toasted a U-joint..

I would bet one of them is on the way out
Just curious, why would a 1/2 shaft squeek? .. and groan? Educate me oh-mechanical-master.:excited:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,627 Posts
-=Jeff=- said:
Mike, Did he check the 1/2 shaft U-joints? I had these same noises a while back (year or So) well this year I toasted a U-joint..

I would bet one of them is on the way out

:agree: That sounds exactly like mine did when the half shaft joints had to be replaced. I think you should have him check them again. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,027 Posts
Patrick96LT4 said:
Just curious, why would a 1/2 shaft squeek? .. and groan? Educate me oh-mechanical-master.:excited:
The needle bearings wear out, in my case they were literally dust. When power is applied, the gap between the u-joint and bearing cap makes noise. Mine sounded like creaking.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Bob88con said:
:agree: That sounds exactly like mine did when the half shaft joints had to be replaced. I think you should have him check them again. :)
First, I want to thank all of you guys for your ideas and suggestions. It is extremely helpful to me since I spend most of my time on the shiny side of my car and not much on the "dark" side.

When the car was on the hoist he checked the u-joints by manually trying to turn the shaft and used a tool to pry against the u-joint to check for looseness. He says everyhting is tight. Wheel bearings, leading/trailing arms suspension, etc.

He also said after test drive that ther was no u-joint related noise. Is there a more sure-fire way of detecting a worn u-joint?

Should I just keep driving untill it becomes really obvious? I'm afraid if it IS a u-joint and it lets go that I am in for some serious damage and related repairs? Has anyone had a u-joint actually let go?

I'v got a Show n Shine today but tomorrow I think I'll put the rear on jack stands and see what I can find. Trouble is that when the rear wheels are hanging off the ground that it changes everything.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,627 Posts
Mike said:
First, I want to thank all of you guys for your ideas and suggestions. It is extremely helpful to me since I spend most of my time on the shiny side of my car and not much on the "dark" side.

When the car was on the hoist he checked the u-joints by manually trying to turn the shaft and used a tool to pry against the u-joint to check for looseness. He says everyhting is tight. Wheel bearings, leading/trailing arms suspension, etc.

He also said after test drive that ther was no u-joint related noise. Is there a more sure-fire way of detecting a worn u-joint?

Should I just keep driving untill it becomes really obvious? I'm afraid if it IS a u-joint and it lets go that I am in for some serious damage and related repairs? Has anyone had a u-joint actually let go?

I'v got a Show n Shine today but tomorrow I think I'll put the rear on jack stands and see what I can find. Trouble is that when the rear wheels are hanging off the ground that it changes everything.
They could just be dry. It took three different times of checking before I could actually see that the joint had gone bad. Don't know about your car, but on my 88 the original u-joints did not have grease fittings. When they dried up, it took a while for them to go bad, thats why I could'nt see any loosness in them for a while, but I could hear them making noise.

Look and see if they have grease fittings, if so grease them, if not, I think it won't be long before you can see they are going bad.

Good luck. :)
 

·
El Teafive
Joined
·
10,489 Posts
Mike said:


When the car was on the hoist he checked the u-joints by manually trying to turn the shaft and used a tool to pry against the u-joint to check for looseness. He says everyhting is tight. Wheel bearings, leading/trailing arms suspension, etc.

He also said after test drive that ther was no u-joint related noise. Is there a more sure-fire way of detecting a worn u-joint?
I did the same thing, but decide to replace them.. there was no play in them, but this is what the outer left one looked like


Cracked cap and NO needle bearings left
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
I had a sound like that once. I found the C clip on my caliper had come off the pin was moving out. It left a nastly scar on the inside of my rim. Bought a new one, put it on, no problems.

But I would also look into the U Joint theory. I know on older cars, you can get the greased, but some of the newer ones, you have to replace them completely.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Bob88con said:
They could just be dry. It took three different times of checking before I could actually see that the joint had gone bad. Don't know about your car, but on my 88 the original u-joints did not have grease fittings. When they dried up, it took a while for them to go bad, thats why I could'nt see any loosness in them for a while, but I could hear them making noise.

Look and see if they have grease fittings, if so grease them, if not, I think it won't be long before you can see they are going bad.

Good luck. :)
I think u are right on. I jacked up the rear end and pulled a wheel. Put the car in neutral and rotated the axle by hand. With a stethascope, I pinpointed the noise to the half shaft. The noise sounds like the u-joints are dry. There are no grease fittings. There is a prominant squeek as the shaft rotates.

There is also a slight separation around the top edge appearing on one u-joint bearing cup. Its looking like time for u-joints all round.

I was told I should change my rear end gear oil too since that may also be the cause of this type of noise. Does that make sense to you?

I think I also found the source of the clicking noise. There is a little slack between the tire mounting bolts on the hub and the rotor. I can move the rotor back and forth on the tire mounting bolts. It almost looks like the holes in the rotor for the tire mounting bolts are too big and sloppy fit for the bolt size. Could these be the wrong rotors? I think the rotor slips back and forth on the bolts just a little when torque is applied which causes a click, and when braking, it slips the other way causing a click when they hit the bolts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
-=Jeff=- said:
Mike, Did he check the 1/2 shaft U-joints? I had these same noises a while back (year or So) well this year I toasted a U-joint..

I would bet one of them is on the way out
I just went thru this on my '91. I would have sworn it was the u-joints but it was the driver side half shaft. New theyre about $300. I bought a used one from Taber Corvette Parts for $75.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
DarkHalo said:
I just went thru this on my '91. I would have sworn it was the u-joints but it was the driver side half shaft. New theyre about $300. I bought a used one from Taber Corvette Parts for $75.
The noise is coming from the drivers side half shaft. Are you saying it could be the half shaft itself and not the u-joints at the ends of the half shaft?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Mike said:
The noise is coming from the drivers side half shaft. Are you saying it could be the half shaft itself and not the u-joints at the ends of the half shaft?
Yup! I thought the same thing. Why would the half shaft itself be making noises? I took it to Corvette Specialty here in Riverside when replacing the u-joints didnt clear up the noises and they said it was the half shaft. They said they stress fracture over time inside the tubes. I thought it crazy at first but it fixed the problem. Incidentally replacing the u-joints and/or half shafts is a pretty easy job. It looks really involved but turns out to be pretty straight forward. The hardest part is pressing out the u-joints and then pressing them back into the new half shaft. I was lucky and have a friend with a press who did it for me. But a machine shop will do it for just a few bucks too. Then again of you have a large vise you could do it yourself. Heres a page a guy I know from Corvette Forum put up explaining how to do it: http://personal.tmlp.com/scorp/vette/images/ujoints/

Hope this helps. If you have any questions feel free to email me atL [email protected]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
DarkHalo said:
Yup! I thought the same thing. Why would the half shaft itself be making noises? I took it to Corvette Specialty here in Riverside when replacing the u-joints didnt clear up the noises and they said it was the half shaft. They said they stress fracture over time inside the tubes. I thought it crazy at first but it fixed the problem. Incidentally replacing the u-joints and/or half shafts is a pretty easy job. It looks really involved but turns out to be pretty straight forward. The hardest part is pressing out the u-joints and then pressing them back into the new half shaft. I was lucky and have a friend with a press who did it for me. But a machine shop will do it for just a few bucks too. Then again of you have a large vise you could do it yourself. Heres a page a guy I know from Corvette Forum put up explaining how to do it: http://personal.tmlp.com/scorp/vette/images/ujoints/

Hope this helps. If you have any questions feel free to email me atL [email protected]
Thanks for the heads up re the half-shaft fractures. I had no idea that could happen to a welded steel "drive-shaft". I wonder if anyone else has had that happen?

I checked the service manual for the procedure and it requires disconnecting the leaf spring, tie rod, lower strut, etc. I dont have the tools or proper hoist to do that myself so I'll have to bight the bullet and take it to my mechanic this week.

Is there some way he could check the Half-shaft for stress fractureswhile the u-joints are getting done?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Mike said:
Thanks for the heads up re the half-shaft fractures. I had no idea that could happen to a welded steel "drive-shaft". I wonder if anyone else has had that happen?

I checked the service manual for the procedure and it requires disconnecting the leaf spring, tie rod, lower strut, etc. I dont have the tools or proper hoist to do that myself so I'll have to bight the bullet and take it to my mechanic this week.

Is there some way he could check the Half-shaft for stress fractureswhile the u-joints are getting done?
Incidentally theyre not welded steel. Theyre aluminum. I dont know of any way to inspect the half shaft itself to positively prove its cracked or not. But if you are getting the noises that sound like u-joint noises jack the rear end and twist the tires back and forth and get no noises chances are its the half shaft. Normally if the u-joints bad it will have slack and make the noises when you manually twist the tires back and forth when its in the air. Ive heard of a few other people that had the same thing happen and its usually the drivers side. If you have a jack, jack stands and basic hand tools like a good socket set you can do the job yourself. Corvette Specialty quoted me $220 labor plus parts to replace it and I did it myself in about 2 hours.
 
1 - 20 of 29 Posts
Top