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Rebuild my ~600 mile 383?

978 Views 5 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  VeTTeMaNC486
Long story short - I had an intake gasket leak and had real thick gaskets stacked under it, a halfass fix that didnt help. Had the intake welded and machined. Little did i know, my distributor didnt go all the way back down and catch the distributor drive. :lookinup: so i crank up the engine and after 1-2 mins of idling i decide to check the oil pressure (I should have been looking at it when i started it... i know...) and the gauge read zero. i freaked out and turned it off. I pulled the power to the distributor and cranked the motor over with the valve covers off, no oil coming out of the push rods. bad news. I guess im going to spend my next few weeks rebuilding my freshly rebuilt 383. Time for four bolt main caps, F/I grind cam and maybe lower comp pistons because I have a turbo kit im eyeing. Ive also thought about solving my oil pressure problem and seeing if there are any noises inside the motor when i crank it again and just leaving it as is. What would yall advise?
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can't really say if you hurt the bearings, 2 minutes at high idle is a bunch of revolutions...would highly recommend inspecting the bearings, polish the crank with 400 grit and replace the bearings if ANY piece of mind, retain resale value of this engine while you build the ''big honker''...rod bearings for cyl 1 & 2 are usually first to suffer under oil starvation --look there first .
i always ''crank for oil pressure'' and SEE it on the gauge BEFORE powering up ignition on a new street engine ''first'' start and on EVERY start with big $ race engines...that ''immediate start'' you see hyped on current TV adverts is NOT the best thing for your engine, just a marketing tool aimed at the legions of un-informed
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