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Discussion Starter #1
no one ever said this hobby is cheap! think how foolish youll feel if a rod fails simply because you got cheap and tried to save $50-$100 at the cost of allowing your rods to be %50 weaker than spending $50-$100 more on your combo could have done.
lets look at it...
the first thing I do with 3/8" bolt big block rods is sell them,you can usually get ($50-$70 a set for them)
heres why

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33623&item=2444687115
your average machine shop charges at least $120 to add the bolts and resize the rods, the bolts themselfs cost about $80, so your into those rods for about $200 minimum,now if your smart youll also have them magnaflux checked for stress cracks (another $50 minimum)now that $$200-$250 machine shop cost plus the $50-$70 minimum youll normally make selling the stock rods goes a LONG WAY toward upgradeing) yet a 3/8" rod bolt is a MINIMUM of 7000psi weaker than a 7/16 rod bolt due to the differance in cross section, now add to that the fact that the (H) style rods are rated at LEAST 50% stronger,are usually lighter in weight and closer in tollerance and require less ballancing and youll quickly find that the work necessary to get those 3/8" rods up to racing condition is wasted time and money in a true high performance engine

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=1397&prmenbr=361

lets see, recondition old 3/8" rods = hours of work and costs $250-$300 minimum and they are still 50% weaker
OR
buy new (H) style cap screw 7/16" rods that are 50% stronger that require HOURS less work, are closer tollerance and cost on average $350-$400 NEW remember that $400 is really minus the $250-$300 youll spend on the old rods so its only $50-$100 more for the up-grade plus they have more cam to rod bolt clearance in the block and require less grinding on the pan rails if a stroker cranks used, and if your buying pistons also you can buy a longer rod at minimal cost to improve the engines rod/stroke ratio!


http://www.flatlanderracing.com/crhbeamscat.htmlIF you already have 3/8" bolt big block rods and are about to rebuild the big block engine, please understand IM CERTAINLY NOT trying to rain on your parade! what I am trying to do is show anyone reading the thread, that the stock 3/8" rods are not the best choice to spend your money on and that proper planing helps the over all combos strength for the money spent
IVE seen to many guys spend major amounts of money
pollishing
shot peaning
resizing
ballancing
and ,magnafluxing stock rods
and winding up spending more and having less with stock rods then they might have had for the same or less money with aftermarket FORGED 7/16" bolt rods with careful shopping. you will occasionally get great deals on those rods on EBAY or at the LOCAL speed shops
 
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