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Discussion Starter #1
I am replacing the front spindles on my car soon and I already have a complete set to throw on. However the ball joints I have only have about 4000 miles on them. My question is what is the best way to remove the spindles and not do damage to the new ball joints?
 

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I remove the shocks, put a long piece of all-thread in there to keep the spring in place, and use a pickle fork. You just have to be careful of the rubber boot. A bit of heat with a heat gun on the spindle to start might help, but I never bother.
 

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Many times you can remove the ball joint stud with a couple of good size hammers. Hold one on either side of the knuckle and hit the other side. Takes a good hit, and I usually leave the nut on the stud, just loose. And I try to backup the blow with at least a 5lb hammer- and use as big a hammer as you can swing accuratly..
 

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I've had good luck with a prybar and hammer. Use the prybar to put downward pressure on the knuckle and then whack the knuckle with the hammer right by the ball joint. I also just used that method to get the rotors off my Jeep that were rusted to the hub :thumbsup:

question is... why are you replacing the spindles? Did you get some lowering spindles?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
no just replacing the spindles seems easier than drilling the rotors LOL. I am replacing the rotors and calipers.

plus I got some rebuilt powdercoated spindles with new bearings and all in them for 60 bucks apiece on CF a few months back
 

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no just replacing the spindles seems easier than drilling the rotors LOL. I am replacing the rotors and calipers.

plus I got some rebuilt powdercoated spindles with new bearings and all in them for 60 bucks apiece on CF a few months back
FWIW, the rotors being riveted to the hub is totally separate from the spindle. By removing the grease cap and cotter pin you can get to the spindle nut which will let you slide the entire hub/rotor assembly off the spindle. If you want to swap spindles to get the powerdercoated parts on there that's one thing, but just swapping the new rotor/hub assembly would probably be less work :thumbsup:

Bare spindle with hub removed:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
yeah probably would be less work. I may do that, i have just never setup bearings before but I know its not all that hard.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
anyone know of a thread on how to replace the hub?
 

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nuthin' to it once you have the caliper off. Just tap the sides of the grease cap to get it to pop off the end of the hub and reveal the spindle nut and cotter pin. They should be covered in bearing grease, but just wipe them clean and remove the cotter pin so you can spin the nut off. Then the hub and rotor will slide right off. The only thing holding the outer bearing in the hub is the spindle nut and washer, so don't drop it when you slide the hub off if you want to re-use the bearings.

On re-assembly install the washer and spindle nut. Torque the spindle nut to 12 ft-lbs while spinning the rotor. Back the nut off one flat and insert the cotter pin. If the slots in the nut and the hole in the spindle (note that there are both vertical and horizontal holes) don't line up, back off an additional 1/2 flat and insert pin. According to the service manual, the bearings should have zero preload and .001 to .008 end play.

Would also be a good time to inspect the bearings in the new hubs that you have. Make sure they're properly greased.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
they are suppose to be greased up and brand new I will probably just pull them out and put them on my old spindle with the hubs.

I never done bearings before but I know you can never have to much grease and I have seen them get packed before.
 
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