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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am ready to put my pushrods in this weekend and just got my rocker arm nuts today. These are the kind with the set screw in the end to lock them on to the stud. They are about 1 1/8 long but the screw thread is relieved (for some unknown reason) so that there is only about 3/4 inch of full thread. The set screws are 3/8 long. If I am lucky I will have 3/8 engagement of the nut on the stud and 3/8 of the set screw.

Intuitively I think the standard clinch nuts will work better. Anyone used these?
 

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I've seen that. The threads on the nuts start way,way up n the nut. And an added benefit, the rocker studs really need to be flat on the end for the setscrews to really work well. Probably get some disagreement on this, but unless the setscrews are pointed and dig into the studs, if they're not flat, the whole thing could work loose.

I agree, instinct tells me the old timey clinch nuts work as well if not better, and far less hassle to adjust. With a real big lumpy cam, that yanks the valve train all over, I can see a possible advantage to the lock nuts. Other than that, I'm on the spend the $$ where they do the most good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I've seen that. The threads on the nuts start way,way up n the nut. And an added benefit, the rocker studs really need to be flat on the end for the setscrews to really work well. Probably get some disagreement on this, but unless the setscrews are pointed and dig into the studs, if they're not flat, the whole thing could work loose.

I agree, instinct tells me the old timey clinch nuts work as well if not better, and far less hassle to adjust. With a real big lumpy cam, that yanks the valve train all over, I can see a possible advantage to the lock nuts. Other than that, I'm on the spend the $$ where they do the most good.

I just don't really feel like this is a good setup. You have the pressure of the valve spring AND the force the set screw puts on the nut and maybe half the threads of a clinch nut. I think I'll head to the parts store and get the plain jane clinch nuts and return the boy racer nuts.

Welcome to the dirty dozen. The actual number of members is a strictly controlled secret;)
 

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I'd be sorta careful of parts store nuts too. Not enough clinch, too much clinch,, etc., Be a real bummer to gall the threads on a rocker stud. Maybe get a bolt that's the correct thread and size, and use a dial torque wrench to check the running torque? That's what we're dealing with anyway. If they're too loose they back off, too tight and they could eat the rocker stud.

:lookinup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'd be sorta careful of parts store nuts too. Not enough clinch, too much clinch,, etc., Be a real bummer to gall the threads on a rocker stud. Maybe get a bolt that's the correct thread and size, and use a dial torque wrench to check the running torque? That's what we're dealing with anyway. If they're too loose they back off, too tight and they could eat the rocker stud.

:lookinup:
I have some good ones that I used on the initial cam install. Then I changed to a roller so I had to back them off. They have never been used and still seem tight but it seems I heard that clinch nuts are only supposed to be used once.

I have a Fastenal dealer close to my house, maybe I'll see what they have.
 

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Holy CRAP!! I've been using the ones on my car for, uuuummm 35 years? Maybe I should change them.. Well, that's not entirely true, 5 or 6 have been changed when they lost the clinch..
 

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Holy CRAP!! I've been using the ones on my car for, uuuummm 35 years? Maybe I should change them.. Well, that's not entirely true, 5 or 6 have been changed when they lost the clinch..
That's it. Your doomed. Nuts will explode tomarrow.:rolling:
 
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