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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
They say the only stupid questions are the ones you don't ask, right? (right?) :rolling:


So, as I go through putting my entire rear end back together, I'll ask all the stupid questions all in one thread, and just deal with feeling silly and have the car back together right. :p I have the assembly manual and am checking off each bolt as I put things back together vs. it, and the hundreds of pictures I took as I went. I promise to post loads of pictures and my write up when I am done too :thumbsup:


So, the first thing that was odd was on the differential, one of the first things I was putting back together, of course. :laughing: I got a bunch of new bolts and such, since most of my old ones were all rusted and worn and stripped and such. the Differential Front Mounting Bracket Bolt Set is not like my old ones. My old ones did not have the flat washers, and only one lock washer. The front most bolt is not even long enough to use both washers. Then I was wondering why you would use a lock washer along with a cotter pin. Seems quite redundant.



So... I used one washer on the head of the rear (normal) bolt, a lock washer on the nut side, and neither on the front (cotter pin) one. That work?
 

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Thats not a stupid question at all! You have a 68? The differential nose bracket on a 68 is different than 69-up. The 69-up has plates welded onto the side of it so it is wider and uses slightly longer bolts. The 69-up bracket is also slightly longer and aligns better with the snubber bushing/cushion.

I stumbled onto this just recently because I was unable to properly adjust my pinion angle. When you own a 68, there are NO stupid questions:laughing:
 

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UH, I had rectal surgery some 27 years ago, does that qualify me to give rear end advice???


:rolling: :rolling: :rolling: :lookinup: :crazy: :WTF :cheers:

I HAD to ask, you know.....
 

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UH, I had rectal surgery some 27 years ago, does that qualify me to give rear end advice???


I HAD to ask, you know.....

Only if it was caught on video because I doubt you could twist yourself to see what they were actually doing!!!


By the way, what have they done???
6 links install , change of ratio, went for a solid axle?
or maybe went for an air ride?....:rolling:

as you can see Nvts theres no stupid questions:nuts:

Answers...not sure :thud:
 

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Nvts, I just got done with my rebuild on a '75 and some of the replacement hardware was not right. The bolts that you have in the picture, I used the original bolts with the castle nut and cotter pin. This is before!
[/IMG]
This is after!
[/IMG]
These are spring mount bolts on lft. original on rt. replacement.
[/IMG]
With some things size does matter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok, todays 'Lets Make Sure About This' question

My new trailing arm bolts appear to be longer then the old ones. Hard to tell, as I had to saw through the old ones.:down:



Now that I have one in, the nut goes completely past the hole for the cotter pin, and I only tightened it to just over hand tight. I don't have any shims in yet, but it wouldn't keep the frame from bowing in, would it?

Pic try 1
pic try 2 (its hard to take a good one for some reason. Sigh)

Should I stick a couple more washers on the head or nut side? (hope I dont have to take the bolt back out though :spanked: )

On an aside, what bolts should I make sure to hit with loctite? I have been coating most things with some white lithium grease, but did loctite a couple of them so far.
 

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I would use flat washers to shim the nut out to lock the cotter pin. No, you will prob not need to remove the bolt. No, I would not torque it down without the t/a shims. Don't forget the long cotter pin that holds the shims in. It retains them even if the pivot should loosen.
 

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:agree: There is a flat washer on the inside and outside of frame pocket, plus a lock washer then the nut according to the AIM manual thats what I did. Your pic. does not show the lock washer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
:agree: There is a flat washer on the inside and outside of frame pocket, plus a lock washer then the nut according to the AIM manual thats what I did. Your pic. does not show the lock washer.
oops, there sure is, and the bolt kit does not have one. Guess I quit at just the right time last night. :laughing: The more I mess with these aftermarket replacement bolts, the less I like them. Not quite the same parts, washers that are skinnier and bend, and lock washers that distort and open up. :WTF

Good thing you guys will keep me honest :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Do you have to tap in the strut/shock bolt? I can't get either side to get completely flush, the new bolts have a ridged area near the 'head' that is refusing to slide into the flange. It is past the flat part and all that, it's almost in, its just 1/4 inch before flush.

bolt pic, I can go fetch a new one if I really need to. Here is the new one... I can still see the raised part on the upper side of the pic. I assume they should be all the way against the flange.

But... it's looking good, so far.
 

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Nvts, yes you have to hammer the shock/strut bolt flush. but put the strut on before you hammer it flush. There is a flat side to the bolt to position it right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Nvts, yes you have to hammer the shock/strut bolt flush. but put the strut on before you hammer it flush. There is a flat side to the bolt to position it right.
ok, cool. I do have the struts in, I just took that one pic with it out so it could show where I was talking about better. The second picture is how it is now :)

It's hammer time! :smack


Thanks much. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I didn't have to hammer them at all, they actually pulled through fairly ok. So I'm happy about that. So, the newest thing is that the passenger bolt does not appear to be as level as the drivers side.

It didn't get captured in pictures as well as I would have liked...

Pass1
Pass2
pass3
pass4

Driver1
Driver2
Driver3

both

Not sure what is not the same. I have both strut camber bolts where they were when I pulled it, though that really does not necessarily mean anything. :lookinup:

Is it even an issue?
 

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Nvts, I had a similar problem when I rebuilt my IRS. My new shock/strut bolts wouldn't come through all the way either. When I inquired, a vendor told me that when they were reproduced, it was assumed the the bearing hub fork would be rusted and a little loose. To compensate for this, they made the serrations at the base a little larger for better bite. This was the story, but I think somebody just screwed up. The bolts will pull in, but you will need to tighten the nut and hit the end with a stout hammer and tighten some more. Repeat this a few times and the bolts should pull through until the head makes contact with the fork. It shouldn't be this way, but that's the way it is. Good luck! BTW....I just checked your pictures and would suggest you back out the bolt that does not make a good alignment with the shock.
 

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When I inquired, a vendor told me that when they were reproduced, it was assumed the the bearing hub fork would be rusted and a little loose. To compensate for this, they made the serrations at the base a little larger for better bite.
What a crock of ****.
 
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