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Discussion Starter #1
Several days ago I posted that my trannie started popping out of 2 and 3rd gear. This is a freshly rebuilt box albeit by me:rolling: No grinding and still shifted smooth. Several had recommended I check the adjustment stops. Well I did that tonight and not only are they out of adjustment, THEY ARE GONE!!!:thud: As I remember these were just bolts screwed in and had a nut screwed on to them to lock them down when adjustment is complete. Are these just a regular bolt and nut? Anyone know what size? I also could not find my instructions but I just put the shifter in 2nd and adjust the stop until it barely touches the handle then lock it down. I then follow the same procedure with the front stop only with the shifter in 3rd gear. Is this the correct procedure?

Thanks
Wade
 

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Have someone hold the shifter hard into whatever gear you're adjusting. 2nd gear would be the rear bolt, 3rd is on the front. Bolts are standard 3/8 I think SAE thread- 9/16 wrench.. You are correct on your adjustment procedures..

Tim

:cheers:
 

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have you got neutral adjusted correctly?? the stop bolts go in till they touch and then back out 1 turn.....use 3rd and 4th gear.
redvetracr
 

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:agree:

redvetracr is correct-- it's only been 30 years or so since I last adjusted one of those things. (crs-sorry)

From the first post about this, it sounded like the stops were too far in and not allowing full engagement of the gear. Neutral MUST, repeat MUST be correct or nothing else matters. You could adjust the stops until the world goes flat and it'd still be troublesome.

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mine's popped out of 2nd for a long time, but only on deceleration... Just recently, when I'm in a hurry to grab 3rd sometimes it feels like there's just nothing there. Take it back to neurtral and jiggle it around a bit and it's good to go.

Sounds like I need to have a look at mine as well!
 

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I dont think putting the missing stops "in" will help with the popping out of gear.Check to see if the shift arms are going all the way into each gear.You might have some linkage binding.The shift arms sometimes have a step in them and if on wrong can cause 1st 2nd rod to rub 3rd 4th rod.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks Guys!

redvetracr - So you are saying have the shifter in the neutral position and then crank the stops in till they touch and then back out 1 turn or put in 3rd and djust this way on the front and then in 4th to adjust the back?

VetteVolts - Yeah it looks like I do have a little rub between the 2 rods. I am going to crawl up under it this weekend and get the wife to go through the gears and double check the adjustment. My center console is still out of the car so I can adjust the stops from inside the car really easy.


I need to get this done ASAP because I am getting the car dynoed next Friday.....:partyon:
 

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Thanks Guys!

redvetracr - So you are saying have the shifter in the neutral position and then crank the stops in till they touch and then back out 1 turn or put in 3rd and djust this way on the front and then in 4th to adjust the back?

VetteVolts - Yeah it looks like I do have a little rub between the 2 rods. I am going to crawl up under it this weekend and get the wife to go through the gears and double check the adjustment. My center console is still out of the car so I can adjust the stops from inside the car really easy.


I need to get this done ASAP because I am getting the car dynoed next Friday.....:partyon:
NO...neutral is one adjustment and the "stop" bolts are different adjustment
 

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Gotcha. I think Neutral is fine. Thanks
this is a Hurst shifter right?? on the side is a hole, use a 1/4" rod...screwdriver, 1/4" allen wrench. If neutral doesn`t slide across real nice and smooth with the "tool" in one of your shift rods is mis-adjusted.....the "stop" bolts get adjusted in 3rd & 4th gear...hold it in 3rd and do the back bolt 4th for the front bolt....in until they touch and then back out 1 full turn....I have seen guys run without stop bolts.......just curious but how much did you replace in the trans rebuild??
redvetracr
 

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Discussion Starter #11
this is a Hurst shifter right?? on the side is a hole, use a 1/4" rod...screwdriver, 1/4" allen wrench. If neutral doesn`t slide across real nice and smooth with the "tool" in one of your shift rods is mis-adjusted.....the "stop" bolts get adjusted in 3rd & 4th gear...hold it in 3rd and do the back bolt 4th for the front bolt....in until they touch and then back out 1 full turn....I have seen guys run without stop bolts.......just curious but how much did you replace in the trans rebuild??
redvetracr
The trannie was in pretty good shape according to the 5-speed.com rebuild video. The syncro's were shot but the gears and slide forks looked fine with no pitting or worn edges. I used a deluxe rebuild kit from 5-speeds.com that included front and rear bearing assemblies, syncros, seals, needle bearings etc. Essentially all the peripheral stuff was replaced while the shafts, gears and forks were re used.

Thanks
Wade
 

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The trannie was in pretty good shape according to the 5-speed.com rebuild video. The syncro's were shot but the gears and slide forks looked fine with no pitting or worn edges. I used a deluxe rebuild kit from 5-speeds.com that included front and rear bearing assemblies, syncros, seals, needle bearings etc. Essentially all the peripheral stuff was replaced while the shafts, gears and forks were re used.

Thanks
Wade

each forward gear has two sets of "teeth" ...the big ones are the constant mesh teeth but the little ones need sharp points...these get rounded off from use and can be a problem, Also did you replace the complete synchro assembly or just brass??
redvetracr
 

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Discussion Starter #13
each forward gear has two sets of "teeth" ...the big ones are the constant mesh teeth but the little ones need sharp points...these get rounded off from use and can be a problem, Also did you replace the complete synchro assembly or just brass??
redvetracr
It has been a while but I think it was just the brass.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
the sliders and hubs do wear....

The funny thing about this is that the popping out of gear just started and this car and the drive train only have about 200 miles of pretty easy driving on it sense rebuilds. I am "hoping" that this is just due to improper adjustment but who knows. Eventually I had planned on putting in a Richmond 4 or 5 speed but was hoping to do with this M-20 for a while anyway. The over drive conversion just is not worth the $3000+ as little as I drive the car. I know the stops were in place when everything was installed so hopefully the popping out of gear and the missing stops aren't just a coincedence.:lookinup:
 

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The funny thing about this is that the popping out of gear just started and this car and the drive train only have about 200 miles of pretty easy driving on it sense rebuilds. I am "hoping" that this is just due to improper adjustment but who knows. Eventually I had planned on putting in a Richmond 4 or 5 speed but was hoping to do with this M-20 for a while anyway. The over drive conversion just is not worth the $3000+ as little as I drive the car. I know the stops were in place when everything was installed so hopefully the popping out of gear and the missing stops aren't just a coincedence.:lookinup:
I don`t think the missing stops are making it pop out of gear. If the shifter is adjusted correctly than you have a gear or most likely a synchro problem.....correct neutral adjustment is important, yet I`m suprised Paul didn`t suggest "Torque lock sliders"....
redvetracr
 

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Do you notice any clutch chatter? Reason I ask is I had one come in that popped out of 4th and it had a little bit of chatter.When I took it out the the pilot bushing was wiped out.I inspected the trans and replaced only the bushing and thats been a couple of years.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Do you notice any clutch chatter? Reason I ask is I had one come in that popped out of 4th and it had a little bit of chatter.When I took it out the the pilot bushing was wiped out.I inspected the trans and replaced only the bushing and thats been a couple of years.
I have not heard any chattering and everything shifts smooth and I feel no vibrations. I do have side pipes so that may mask a noise if there was one. I did install a new pilot bushing in the crank when I installed the clutch PP and trannie.

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Wade
 

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I have not heard any chattering and everything shifts smooth and I feel no vibrations. I do have side pipes so that may mask a noise if there was one. I did install a new pilot bushing in the crank when I installed the clutch PP and trannie.

Thanks
Wade
New bushing is good.I have a feeling its just not getting all the way in gear for some reason.Good Luck
 

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alright, I'm finally going to get around to this (probably this weekend). I'm a bit hazy about the neutral adjustment. I'm looking at the Service Manual, but it's not too helpful since I don't know which parts they are referring to. I'm assuming the 1/4" rod, screwdriver, whatever is taking place of the "locating gauge"? How do I properly adjust the shift rods if it doesn't slide smoothly?

Is everything done from underneath the car, or do I need to remove the center console?
 
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