Corvette Forum : DigitalCorvettes.com Corvette Forums banner
1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
618 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My steering is all loose.

Is there something simple that can be done to tighten it up? When I turn the wheel it turns all the way into the box.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
738 Posts
How old is your front end? Could be your steering box is toast or just in need of adjustment or a rebuild. Rag Joint may be toast, Tie Rods, or control are bushings may need replacing... Bunch of movin parts under there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
618 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
How does one adjust the steering box?

When I move the steering wheel (moving within the range of slop), I can see everything turning perfectly upto the box. I watch the rag joint turn in sync with the steering wheel, so that is fine.

My tie rods and a lot of that stuff under the car has been replaced, I am leaning towards the box either needs adjusted or rebuilt.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
I hope you are not driving it. Many components can make it loose. from the rag joint to rod ends. You need to inspect it completly. Please dont drive it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
738 Posts
There is only 1 way to tighten steering. $$$$$$$$$$
Yep, sounds like a Box rebuild in your future. Basic rebuild kit is about $90, serious kit $275
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,855 Posts
How does one adjust the steering box?

When I move the steering wheel (moving within the range of slop), I can see everything turning perfectly upto the box. I watch the rag joint turn in sync with the steering wheel, so that is fine.

My tie rods and a lot of that stuff under the car has been replaced, I am leaning towards the box either needs adjusted or rebuilt.

Have your wife sit in the car key set so wheel is free to turn...

you put your fingers on that rag joint...feel any slop when that wheel is turned side to side slightly....don't need actually turn the front wheels, just load the steering wheel column...if that and all else to that input appears tight from right to left full loading....you need look at the box itself...

if the wheel turns at all without moving that pitman (output) arm even slightly....you maybe even able to hear the gears clunk, OR feel a very slight tapping sound....if any of the above is true, you need take that top cover off, and refresh the grease with hi temp grease...replace the top cover with that set nut on the screw...you find it pulls up the sector? gear to mesh tighter with the input worm gear....takes out the slop....if it's that slop that's the problem....jack up the car, and after re greasing re assy....turn that top screw a bit to pull/push (I forget which) that sector gear into closer mesh with the worm...but you gotta watch it...on account of that sector gear is made with a deliberate high spot in the on center/forward position...so that is the typical high point on the gear...with wear it's maybe a lo point....
which is not good....what you need is a nice smooth instant reaction without any binding what so EVER from full right to full left...done with front in the air, no wheel loading....just jack it up.....steering wheel should be smooth, and on center have an instant reaction with that pitman arm,

after that, we get into the power steering valves...another thread....

:WTF :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:

make that a 6 pak, you will need it....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
When I got my car, the steering wheel had 4 inches of play in it,, not exagerating. One of the first jobs i did was the steering box. Now, with a rebuilt steering box in it, it has basicly no play in the wheel. send your box to GTR1999, you will be very happy you did. To Test mine i would start the car, move the rag joint back and forth and watch the pitman arm for any motion, side to side. GTR1999 did NOT rebuild mine. When i got mine it was too tight. I loosened it 1 turn, and then tightened it three full turns. now no play,, and the box returns now, as it didn't before. with GTR1999 however , I don't think you'll have that problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
618 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Have your wife sit in the car key set so wheel is free to turn...

you put your fingers on that rag joint...feel any slop when that wheel is turned side to side slightly....don't need actually turn the front wheels, just load the steering wheel column...if that and all else to that input appears tight from right to left full loading....you need look at the box itself...

if the wheel turns at all without moving that pitman (output) arm even slightly....you maybe even able to hear the gears clunk, OR feel a very slight tapping sound....if any of the above is true, you need take that top cover off, and refresh the grease with hi temp grease...replace the top cover with that set nut on the screw...you find it pulls up the sector? gear to mesh tighter with the input worm gear....takes out the slop....if it's that slop that's the problem....jack up the car, and after re greasing re assy....turn that top screw a bit to pull/push (I forget which) that sector gear into closer mesh with the worm...but you gotta watch it...on account of that sector gear is made with a deliberate high spot in the on center/forward position...so that is the typical high point on the gear...with wear it's maybe a lo point....
which is not good....what you need is a nice smooth instant reaction without any binding what so EVER from full right to full left...done with front in the air, no wheel loading....just jack it up.....steering wheel should be smooth, and on center have an instant reaction with that pitman arm,

after that, we get into the power steering valves...another thread....

:WTF :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:

make that a 6 pak, you will need it....
No power steering......

I like the idea of regreasing and adjusting the gears.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,855 Posts
No power steering......

I like the idea of regreasing and adjusting the gears.

Well that simplifies hell outta it then....which is good news I suppose, Mr. Armstrong.......:laughing:

at any rate, there may still be bad news on that steering box....let us know how my suggestions turned out....

there is every suspicion the gear set is worn out, and will neve get a decent adjustment, which will bind at some place in it's rotation, and/or still have a loose center on straight ahead....the lower sector gear bearing is sometimes work out too, and when it gets all that bad, hel with it, sent it to Gary and get it done right....

this assumes you want to keep that ~4 turn 16:1 steering....I hated it, and am so glad I went rack/pinion....but mine is power, I lazy...

:cheers:
 

·
Supporting Vendor
Joined
·
3,785 Posts
The box is set up with tapered teeth on the pitman shaft that mate with the rack on the worm nut assembly( ball screw) The center tooth is machined larger so that there is the correct lash on center when driving straight.
There should be less drag off center then on.

as Bird said, if there are other parts worn then a box rebuild alone will not help much.

Get the front end off the ground, have a helper turn the wheel and see if there is any lost motion in the box. On center as the input is moving the pitman arm should also be moving.

Look at the screw in the cover, are there any threads showing above the nut? If you have original gears in the box you may have only 2 threads showing and it could be ok, if you have less then 2 you may be near the end of the gear life and the pitman shaft may be bottomed out.

I recommend removing the box from the car to correctly set up with a dial TW. If you want to try an on the car settting then get the box on center and slowly turn the lash screw in until you feel it snug up. Leave it there. I don't like this procedure but some guy are going to do it anyway and this is about the best way in the car. I don't like that in car procedure in the manuals either. Save the fish scale for your tackle box.

The stock boxes also have sloppy setup in the lash gap and bushings. To get the best built box you need to address these as well and go beyond using the kit bushings to cut the side play down to .002"

If done correctly with good suspension and alignment you will not need any aftermarket boxes or conversions 95% of the time, the other 5% would be in heavy road racing operation and then the boxes can be tightened up a little more then for a street car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
618 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well no threads left on the screw. I guess when I get the cash for a steering rebuild, I need to have my steering box rebuilt.

Dang it all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
618 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
So here is my thinking.

At some point I want to put in hydroboost. If I am going to put in a power steering pump for the brakes, I figure I should go ahead and put in something like steeroids at the same time. But I am not going to do all that until I put in the new motor whenever I get that done. So I should plan on all three of those projects to run concurrently.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,855 Posts
So here is my thinking.

At some point I want to put in hydroboost. If I am going to put in a power steering pump for the brakes, I figure I should go ahead and put in something like steeroids at the same time. But I am not going to do all that until I put in the new motor whenever I get that done. So I should plan on all three of those projects to run concurrently.
I sent my drawings/specs on what I welded up back in 01, for my rack install, and have less than 200 in the entire project....but I have a professional welder buddy with Tig/stick machine at home....so it was a snap to build this crap....

I had a machine shop make the center link adaptor...and settled for two long unequal length tie rods....21" and 19" cause of the rack offset to the dirver's side....you trick is the fab help....

so if you can get that backup, I can send you some plans, which would not be all that hard to replicate.....even 300 is cheeper by allmost a grand than other alternatives....
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top