[dannyp2]

My '81 vette is all original, and I only drive it every 1-2 weeks. I can't help but think of all the cranking wear from oil drawdown during sitting. Years ago, I put slick 50 oil additive in my chevelle and it seemed to ease cranking and general wear.

1) Any thoughts if slick 50 will help or hurt my 1981 engine?
2) Also, would marvel mystery oil in the tank help?

Thanks.

 

[MYBAD79]

I've used Slick50 over 10 years ago when they were advertizing like crazy. The engine was fine when I sold the car with >100K miles. I doubt it was only because of the slick stuff but it definately didn't hurt...

 

[big2bird]

Snake oil.:down:

 

[vettfixr]

I tried that stuff and it was nasty. :laughing: If you want to ease your engine cranking go with a good synthetic like Mobil 1. It works better than any additive and is a world cleaner than that Slick 50 crap. I've been using synthetics for years and have yet to have a lubrication problem. In the winter the engine cranks over the same at 10 degrees as it does at 70 degrees.

And just FYI this is from the Federal Trade Commission, released in 1996

http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1996/07/slick.shtm

Federal Trade Commission Protecting America's Consumers


For Release: July 16, 1996
Quaker State Ads For Slick 50 Are False And Midleading, FTC CHARGES
The Federal Trade Commission has charged Quaker State - Slick 50, Inc., the manufacturer of Slick 50, the best-selling auto engine treatment in the U.S., with making false and unsubstantiated advertising claims. According to the FTC, ads for Slick 50 that tout tests showing improved engine performance are false and its claims of reduced engine wear are unsubstantiated.

Quaker State - Slick 50 is based in Houston, Texas. Since its 1978 introduction, Slick 50 has attracted about 30 million users world-wide. Slick 50 retails for about $18 a quart, and the company claims to have about 60% of the engine treatment market.

"Slick 50's ads claim that compared to motor oil alone, it reduces engine wear, lengthens engine life, and provides a host of other benefits. The claims sound good, but the evidence doesn't back them up,” said Jodie Bernstein, Director of the FTC's Bureau of Consumer Protection. “We believe the ads exaggerate the lack of protection motor oils provide modern engines at start-up, as well as the risk of premature engine failure. The premature engine failure Slick 50 claims to guard against is uncommon, and the company lacks reliable evidence it would be prevented by using Slick 50, in any case," she said. "In fact, all the evidence we've seen so far suggests that the best thing you can do for your car’s engine is to get an oil change performed at manufacturer recommended intervals," she said. "People who want to maximize their automobile performance and enhance its long life should read the owner's manual and follow the directions.”

Slick 50 is the most recent in a series of FTC cases challenging allegedly deceptive ad claims for oil additives or high octane fuel. “Last year, STP Corporation and its parent corporation, First Brands, paid an $888,000 civil penalty to settle FTC charges that they were making false and unsubstantiated claims for their engine treatment," Bernstein said.

 

[jjwvette]

Snake oil.:down:

:agree:

 

[dannyp2]

Thanks. I'm thinking that marvel mystery oil in the tank might not be good as well. My Dad swears by it. I wonder if it would help foul the plugs? As you know, they are hard to get at.

The reason I brought all this up is the time it takes to crank my engine after sitting. I pump the pedal a few times and even let it sit shortly to vaporize the fuel in the manifold (as per a previous post). But man....it takes at least 4-5 seconds to fire. Timing is correct and the engine runs well. Float bowls are not draining down, as I see fuel squirting in to the manifold when I hit the pedal. I can't believe that these cars would take that long on a cold start when new.

Anyway, still concerned about my poor cylinder walls......

 

[vettfixr]

To put to rest your fears, when I tore down my small block you could still see the hone marks and that was at about 92K miles. Chevy blocks are very sturdy and regular oil changes should give you many many miles of trouble free service.

 

[big2bird]

Thanks. I'm thinking that marvel mystery oil in the tank might not be good as well. My Dad swears by it. I wonder if it would help foul the plugs? As you know, they are hard to get at.

The reason I brought all this up is the time it takes to crank my engine after sitting. I pump the pedal a few times and even let it sit shortly to vaporize the fuel in the manifold (as per a previous post). But man....it takes at least 4-5 seconds to fire. Timing is correct and the engine runs well. Float bowls are not draining down, as I see fuel squirting in to the manifold when I hit the pedal. I can't believe that these cars would take that long on a cold start when new.

Anyway, still concerned about my poor cylinder walls......

Danny, 2 points. If it takes 5 seconds to fire, it builds oil pressure during that time before it fires. Second, it SHOULD fire right up. All my 81 components are restored/new. Fires right up.

 

[lehmannhenry]

I don't like slick 50, but I have used Z-max with noticable results (gas mileage increase 1 to 2 points over an extended period). Its also good at getting built up crud out of an engine.

just my .02

edit: Also, synthetic oil never hurts, especially mobil 1 (its all that i use)

 

[yellow73sb]

I don't like slick 50, but I have used Z-max with noticable results (gas mileage increase 1 to 2 points over an extended period). Its also good at getting built up crud out of an engine.

just my .02

edit: Also, synthetic oil never hurts, especially mobil 1 (its all that i use)

I used zmax in my gas r/c car and it made it run better. :laughing: It runs on nitro methane.

I think some of the additives do work pretty well.

My dad got 230k out of a big block and a small block using pro-long.

 

[dannyp2]

I feel better about my cylinder walls and rings after hearing from you guys..thanks. Now I have to figure out why it takes so long to start after sitting. Of course, my two friends with muscle cars tell me that it takes a while to start their vehicles after sitting as well. Not a problem at all when warm. My plugs are clean and sharp, timing good, fuel system seems clean (new filter), hmmm.........

 

[TWINRAY]

Snake oil.:down:

Snake oil probably would be better. Slick 50 is **** IMO.

 

[1 MN MCN]

Thanks. I'm thinking that marvel mystery oil in the tank might not be good as well. My Dad swears by it. I wonder if it would help foul the plugs? As you know, they are hard to get at.

The reason I brought all this up is the time it takes to crank my engine after sitting. I pump the pedal a few times and even let it sit shortly to vaporize the fuel in the manifold (as per a previous post). But man....it takes at least 4-5 seconds to fire. Timing is correct and the engine runs well. Float bowls are not draining down, as I see fuel squirting in to the manifold when I hit the pedal. I can't believe that these cars would take that long on a cold start when new.

Anyway, still concerned about my poor cylinder walls......

Are you running an HEI, and maybe some splitfires or like plugs? I hit mine cold the other day, allmost by accedent,, before I could release the key, it was running.

 

[rdevaux2007]

DONT USE IT. I used that stuff twice in my Expedition, over around 110k miles, fouled the plugs, 10k after i changed them. Forgot that happened 30k miles later, used it again, fouled the plugs, again. I have to pay to have the plugs changed in that vehicle, can't reach 4 of them, cost big $$. Don't use that JUNK.

(yea, I know I'm a dumbass for doing it twice)