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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone. A while back I posted having a smoking rear driver's side wheel well after returning for a run. I mean some serious white smoke. I thought it was electrical, but my investigations turned up nothing electrical related. I did some communicating with Gary(gtr1999) who helped me with a few questions. Great person by the way. Well today I got the car jacked up and tried to take the wheel off to inspect the parking brake and related items. To my surprise I can not get the wheel off.:surprised There is play when I grab the wheel and do the push pull checking. I slightly rotate the wheel and i feel what seems to be grinding like metal on metal. I guess the heat buildup fused the wheel to the hub? What's the diagnosis from this scenario? How can I get the wheel off? Please tell me it's as simple as me leaving the rally wheel trim ring on because I did. :laughing: Gotta laugh to keep from crying. Thanks everyone.
 

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It's probably just stuck. With all the lugs off, smack the backside of the wheel with a big hammer. IF it got hot enough to melt the hub and wheel together, it would have made a lot more than just white smoke.
You might also soak the hub/wheel around the lugs with your favorite penetrating oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks man. Will try some more powerful persuasion.:thumbsup:Would the bearings build that kind of heat or do you think I should be looking more at the brakes ?
 

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Sounds like its just stuck to me also. Smack it with a good mallet on the back, roll it 180* smack it again, roll smack, roll smack.. Do that for a while. Best of luck. Definatly check the brakes, parking and regular.... Best of luck.
 

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yea take a rubber hammer to the back of it. id suggest leaving one lugnut screwed on a hair so the tire doesnt decide to go flying.
 

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If the BFH dont work put the lug nuts back on loosly and let the car down and put the full weight of the car on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks fellas. I tried to spray WD40 in the wheel/hub groove. Letting it soak for what it's worth. Gonna go to autoparts and grab a mallett. Thanks again
 

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If the bearings are that bad, you would have heard/felt it way before the smoke. I'll wager the brakes. Parking brake stuck and was dragging or the rubber flex line at the front of the T/A died and held the service brake on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Man the rubber mallet worked:partyon: Got the wheel off. Lots of rusty dust on rotors and calipers. The rubber brake line looks old but not collapsed or anything. I am trying to see if the parking brake shoes are rubbing but either they have rusted away or I don't know what the hell I am looking for. Probably the latter. :smack
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for all of the help. No way around this situation but to re-do my brakes. Rotors, calipers, and replace the old rubber lines. The stuff is just too old. I am sure I will be posting up when I get the stuff. Thanks again:thumbsup:
 

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The rubber brake lines may look bad on the outside (or not) where they die is internally- a little crack on the inside that makes a flap- step on the brakes the flap lays flat, then take your foot off the brake and the flap stands up and blocks the return.
I replaced mine with the SS braided lines- not only because they were 40 years old, but the SS lines don't change diamater as much under pressure. Not much change, I admit, but any increase at all also increases the volume of fluid required to apply.

If your problem is with the hydraulic side, you should be able to see the pads and rotor all discolored and nasty. If it's the parking brake, the hub of the rotor should show some color
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Funny you said that about the hub color in relation to the parking brake. My hub is a dark brownish color, so that may be my proof, but then my rotor and calipers were rusty looking too. There seemed to be stains from leaking fluid as well. Feels good to learn a few things.:thumbsup:
 

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If it gets really hot, it'll turn a nice shade of blue.

My guess is that if the disc pads look OK (the surface of the rotor is fairly even in color) the park brake hung up and that's where all the smoke came from.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks Tim. I had to stop last night. Had kid stuff going on. Sorry to seem dumb but how does that rear rotor come off?
 

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Once the caliper is off, and if the rotor has never been removed, there are rivets between the lugs. Use a center punch and put a good center point, then drill. I like to start with a small drill (1/8") and work up to the final size. I'm embarrassed, I don't recall what size the rivet really is, but someone will step in I'm sure. Once the rivets are drilled thru the rotor hat, it should come off. At that point, the park brake should be the only thing holding it. There's a hole thru the hat that allows for adjusting the park brake shoes, you may need to back that off to get the shoes back enough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks man. I have been reading and learning. I believe my best bet will be to go ahead and get my trailing arms done. This way my parking brake and everything will be done and over with. I was reading about what a PITA doing the parking brake with the spindle attatched can be. I am getting ready to drill off the rear rotors. Hopefully today. Then I will shop the arms off to be done. Then I will address my calipers. Man it never ends.
 

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there are a couple of places in Texas that can do the arms. May not be as quick as the major vendors, but I'll be the price will be competitive and the quality will be for sure.
 
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