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Discussion Starter #1
Still had to figure out how to mount the top of the rad, didn't want to just bolt it against the "spreader bar" and it needed to go a little forward so the water outlet would clear the upper control arm.

So, this is what I came up with, still have to weld those 2 aluminium pieces to the rad.





..plus, it was a nice little project to use my new tig rig on. I've had a hobart ac/dc tig rig for quite some time but it doesn't have a remote control so welding aluminium is a pita as it quickly gets out of hand. With the new water cooled system w/ remote control and a whole bunch of fancy controls it's so much easier to weld aluminium, I would have never thought inverters would give you such an edge.
 

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Nice looking welds Marck. I haven't done a lot of TIG, but aluminum was always the most challenging for me. Stainless seemed to be the easiest.
 

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Why does those pieces need to be welded to the rad? I went a similiar route and just place my mounts in the channel like yours on top of the rad and bolt them down like you can do to the crossmember.
Where are they going to go once bolted. The rad can not move backwards or forwards because of the lip.
I do NOT use the stock mounts for the rad. I made an inverted U for the bottom that the rad just sits over and another inverted U for the top that also bolts to the crossmember.
My rad is not bolt directly anywhere. It free floats between the inverted U's
If the bolting of the top mounts is good nothing will go anywhere.
The welds I see are very nice:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Because it will rattle and damage the rad finish and it'll look like crap not welded on.

I'm gonna make some holes in them and flare those and then weld them on the rad.

The rad sits on u shaped pieces with foam on them so there is some cushioning
 

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are you using the stock steel rad support?

sounds like that welder cost a fortune. I'd like to be able to weld aluminum but i'm only willing to spend a few hundred bucks.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Stock? what a dirty word LOL Hell no, I have a complete custom front frame extention, no stock anything. The rad is bigger than the whole stock rad frame anyway. Yeah, to properly weld aluminium you're looking at at least 2500$ or so for a decent inverter w/ foot or thumb control, add a water cooler and what not and you're near the 4000$ easily. Good tools cost a lot of money. Here's what the front end looks like:





I will remove the thinner bar, that way I can remove the "spreader bar" and pull the engine out the front.
 

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TT, Norval, a 69Myway-Chris....and a few others.....

you all got FAR too much time on your hands, and it SHOWS....

all you all got works of mechanical/electrical/physics ART....

some guys are great with pencil drawings/concepts, others with a can of paint....others are great at spending money getting stuff done...

others can build anything, but suffer greatly making it look nice (me).....

YOUR freeking cars on the other hand look like something a commercial shop who really knows :WTF the are doing, have a plan and GET there...would do...

Lingenfelter comes to mind....
 

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Your car has always blown me away. Nice looking welds TT. I agree that welding it in would keep it from damaging the radiator. The radiator is going to be bolted to the support so it should still be an easy removal.

I could only imagine what mine would wind up looking like. :laughing:
 

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Good tools cost a lot of money.
:agree: Somebody please tell my wife.............:laughing:

After 16 years I've finally convinced her ( this is how I make my / "our" living )
yes it is necessary to spend that much. :D


Nice job TT :thumbsup:
 

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