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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I started posting this project on another corvette board who's name won't be mentioned. Well, after being a member there for about 8 years I was appalled at the attitude some of the people over there have. I know a lot of members from there have migrated here and now I know why. I'm looking forward to being an active and helpful member here and will continue to update this thread here.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I've been doing a lot to my '94 lately and took some pics along the way. It started with a sound dampening and audio upgrade but also decided to replace the carpet, heater core, all weatherstripping, AC lines with condenser and evaporator, and radiator. Here is a list of what was added, I'll update this thread as more gets finished. If you want to see any specific pics or info I can post them. Some of the pics are dark, sorry about that, my camera doesn't work too well in the garage.

Sound Dampening:

Second Skin Luxury Liner Pro
Heat Wave Pro
RAAMat BXT
Ensolite (Adhesive either 3M 90 or RAAMaudio/Second Skin spray)
Dynamat Xtreme

Audio:

AVIC Z1 head unit
Rainbow Germanium 6.5 components up front and rear
JL 12W7 Subwoofer in fiberglass enclosure
JL 1000/v2 Amp
Zapco Reference 1000.4 Amp

Replacement:

Wilcox Weatherstripping
Dewitt's radiator
AC Delco heater Core
OEM Condenser, AC lines, blower motor, fan, evaporator
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Dynamat Installed

















I doubled up the acoustic vibration dampening mat (BXT or Dynamat Xtreme) on the floorboards and the hatch area

 

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Discussion Starter #6
Adding RAAMat and Ensolite to the doors













Don't forget to open up the drain holes






Ensolite over the aluminum door skin that holds the door handle

 

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Discussion Starter #7
Luxury Liner Pro in hatch area, Heat Wave Pro over wheel wells




Luxury liner pro over floor board and behind passenger seat




Ensolite over everything in hatch area, luxury liner pro over wheel wells




Heat Wave Pro





 

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Discussion Starter #10
Big 3 wire waiting to be installed. These connect the battery positive to alternator output, ground to battery negative, and engine to chassis.




1/0 Kicker Hyperflex Power and Ground Wire for Amps installed on passenger side right under the heater core box.






The grommets (Stinger brand) were reversed in these pics the wires are now up close to the firewall away from the headers. When replacing the evaporator I will use 3M Strip-Calk to seal it which is better for this application than the 3M window weld which I have seen recommended here, although it will also work.





3M Strip Calk





Routing the power wires on the passenger side keeps them from having to be crossed over the transmission tunnel and allows them to slide in through the factory hole behind the passenger seat that leads to the storage compartment.




Grommets flipped



 

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Discussion Starter #11
Amps and Sub Box (fiberglassed). Underneath the blue painters tape is aluminum foil to help prevent any resin to seep through.











After putting the tape on I sprayed over it with PVA (poly vinyl alcohol) to help make the fiberglass come off easier but its not necessary.


More to come...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Here is an example of how I put the Ensolite on the trim panels

Its hard to see but its glued on the back








PVA




JL 12W7




Rainbow Germanium Components





Fiberglass (mat and weave)






Bondo for fiberglass (Rage Extreme (finishing) and Rage Gold (filling/blending))



Sub ring waiting to go in

 

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Discussion Starter #13
Here's a better pic showing the Ensolite on the tunnel and the Luxury Liner Pro on the floorboard




Eventually I'll wrap all the power cable and other audio cables with this black stuff, it's called tech flex

 

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Discussion Starter #15
I got a little further on the glassing, I'm almost done with the mat and going to start putting on the weave. After that the MDF ring gets hot glued in then fleece is draped over to contour the shape of the car and then glassed.





 

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Discussion Starter #16
I'm still taking pics, right now I decided to make the amps completely flush with the false floor so I trimmed the fiberglass a little in the pic below. The floor will be about 3/4 inch lower, then I'll just fiberglass over it to make the two surfaces flush. I can't really take pics of pouring the resin, I use another method. You use disposable paint brushes and add a light coat of resin so the fiberglass can stick then paint the fiberglass with more resin until is gets clear (goes from white to clear). That's about it really. If you've never done it you'll get the hang of it very fast.

 

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Discussion Starter #17
Here is the new cover I'm making that will be flush with the amps. Right now the amps sit on a false floor that is raised about 3/4 inch so the power wires can go underneath, then this new piece goes on top of that.


Old




New











 

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Discussion Starter #18
Here's the panel for the amps I redid to make it flush with the amps, I think it looks much better.

 

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Discussion Starter #19
Now it's back to where it was before I lowered the floor, just a few more pieces of mat left to be put on then I'll start with the weave.

 
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