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How do I change the spark plug wires in a 1993 LT1 corvette? Do I need to remove the water pump?:WTF
Thanks....
Rick
Thanks....
Rick
Spark Plug Wires
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8,628 Posts
"Do I need to remove the water pump? "
NO! but its a WHOLE lot easier if you do it from UNDER the car on the opti spark,distributor end of the wires (DO ONE AT A TIME)(yeah its still a MAJOR P.I.T.A. but it CAN be done) use 4 decent jack stands to give safe access and it helps to have small hands , and (make sure you measure each wire you take off and match it to its replacement, you sure don,t want to go back and do it several times)
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=34924
or better yet a car LIFT if you have access to one :thumbsup:
http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?p=864462#post864462
NO! but its a WHOLE lot easier if you do it from UNDER the car on the opti spark,distributor end of the wires (DO ONE AT A TIME)(yeah its still a MAJOR P.I.T.A. but it CAN be done) use 4 decent jack stands to give safe access and it helps to have small hands , and (make sure you measure each wire you take off and match it to its replacement, you sure don,t want to go back and do it several times)
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=34924
or better yet a car LIFT if you have access to one :thumbsup:
http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?p=864462#post864462
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375 Posts
Yea, just do one at a time, and take your time........On LT1's Vette's I actually(remove and replace) every plug wire just by just leaning over the fenders on each side(but I've done these alot)......the passanger side is REALLY easy....and the drivers side is a little more time consuming, but it can all be easily done without removal of anything..........Don't forget to use a generous amount of Dielectric compound on "both" where your plug wires go into the opti spark unit, and where your plug wires plug into your spark plugs......the Dielectric compound not only helps stop water from getting inside the optispark in this area, but it also makes it to where you can hear and feel the positive "click" better when each plug wire is connected(so you know their fully connected)....many guys seem to not make positive connections where the plug wires go into the opti-saprk unit, since the wire boots are actually touching each other in this area thus making it hard to feel the "click"......just take your time, and if it helps you, mark all your plug wires before you remove anything..........good luck..........Joe:thumbsup:
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Thank you all for the replies. I'll just take my time and hope for the best. I'm sure it will be a challange.:smack
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2,186 Posts
remove all women and children from the area.they will hear some new curse words.i know its a pain but pull the pump ,then ya can replace the cap and rotor and pump and belts and hoses and anti freeze.ya thought it was gonna be easy
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2,373 Posts
On my LT1, it took me about 5.5 hours to change the plug wires on the driver/passenger side of the car.
It took about an hour alone for the engine to cool off enough to work on it.
Anyone who's ever entered the dreaded LT1 "hellhole" on the passenger side knows what I'm talking about!
Thank God for the clamshell hood. That mofo'n engine compartment is buttoned down tighter than an Aldeberon shellmouth. I can't imagine working on an F-body!
The power steering pump is on the driver's side of the engine. Just follow the rack-to-reservoir pipe and you'll quickly ID it. You don't need to remove the PS pump, just unbolt and loosen to gain access to the plug wires.
Also, don't forget the anti-sieze compound for the new plugs. It'll make the job easier next go-round with those aluminum heads.
I would also order a replacement set of plug wire separators and holders online from Mid-America Motorworks (MAM). You can get a complete set for about $20 (plus shipping).
The O.E.M. ones tend to get brittle from the engine heat and break when you go to remove them.
Always use the manufacturer's spark gap on a stock, no-mods engine. You'll find the emissions sticker on the radiator housing.
Besides, you can't always trust the pre-set gap on new plugs, even if they have the cardboard protectors around the electrode.
They get bumped/dropped during shipping, shelving, etc....
It took about an hour alone for the engine to cool off enough to work on it.
Anyone who's ever entered the dreaded LT1 "hellhole" on the passenger side knows what I'm talking about!
Thank God for the clamshell hood. That mofo'n engine compartment is buttoned down tighter than an Aldeberon shellmouth. I can't imagine working on an F-body!
The power steering pump is on the driver's side of the engine. Just follow the rack-to-reservoir pipe and you'll quickly ID it. You don't need to remove the PS pump, just unbolt and loosen to gain access to the plug wires.
Also, don't forget the anti-sieze compound for the new plugs. It'll make the job easier next go-round with those aluminum heads.
I would also order a replacement set of plug wire separators and holders online from Mid-America Motorworks (MAM). You can get a complete set for about $20 (plus shipping).
The O.E.M. ones tend to get brittle from the engine heat and break when you go to remove them.
Always use the manufacturer's spark gap on a stock, no-mods engine. You'll find the emissions sticker on the radiator housing.
Besides, you can't always trust the pre-set gap on new plugs, even if they have the cardboard protectors around the electrode.
They get bumped/dropped during shipping, shelving, etc....
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2,373 Posts
Actually, if you remove the serpentine belt pulley's (special tool) it makes the job considerably easier but still a PITA.
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3,796 Posts
:agree: However, there is only 1 pulley that is basically in the way. Removing it is a simple bolt on/off process. I had help when I was installing the wires, so that made things much easier. :thumbsup: still a PITA though.
The power steering pully installer/puller can be picked up at PepBoys,etc. for $24. If you think your free time is worth $24 or more per hour, it's worth purchasing it.
With this puller, I can do plug wires in about an hour and a half.
Performance Tool p/n W87022
With this puller, I can do plug wires in about an hour and a half.
Performance Tool p/n W87022
If you're going to do the job from above, rather than underneath, here are a few tips:
1. Raise the front end of the vehicle to a more comfortable working height.
2. Remove the inner fenderwell center panel on the driver's side. This will allow you to both see and do the job much more easily on the driver's side. You may also find it helpful to remove the wheel.
3. Unbolt the ASR bracketry from the frame, so that you can slide the ASR unit around to get it out of your way.
4. Unbolt the power steering pump so that you can move it forward around a half inch. This will make it much easier to sneak the plug wires in/out behind the pump.
5. Remove the serpentine belt and tensioner.
6. Use dielectric grease in the boots at both ends of the wires. Be sure to "burp" the air out of the boots after you get each of them pushed firmly into place, so that the trapped air doesn't try to push the wires off later.
Take your time, work with care, and pay attention to what you're doing. The OEM replacement plug wires from your Chevy dealer are high quality parts, and will route (and fit into the wire looms) correctly. Run the new wires properly, and make sure they stay away from anything that moves, is sharp, or gets hot.
The passenger's side is not such a bad job. The driver's side is a Queen Royal Bitch (mostly because all of the belt-driven accessories are hanging on the driver’s side of the front of LT1/LT4 engines, and they leave little room for you to work or see what you’re doing). With plenty of patience, beer and Band-Aids, you'll get it done.
Live well,
SJW
1. Raise the front end of the vehicle to a more comfortable working height.
2. Remove the inner fenderwell center panel on the driver's side. This will allow you to both see and do the job much more easily on the driver's side. You may also find it helpful to remove the wheel.
3. Unbolt the ASR bracketry from the frame, so that you can slide the ASR unit around to get it out of your way.
4. Unbolt the power steering pump so that you can move it forward around a half inch. This will make it much easier to sneak the plug wires in/out behind the pump.
5. Remove the serpentine belt and tensioner.
6. Use dielectric grease in the boots at both ends of the wires. Be sure to "burp" the air out of the boots after you get each of them pushed firmly into place, so that the trapped air doesn't try to push the wires off later.
Take your time, work with care, and pay attention to what you're doing. The OEM replacement plug wires from your Chevy dealer are high quality parts, and will route (and fit into the wire looms) correctly. Run the new wires properly, and make sure they stay away from anything that moves, is sharp, or gets hot.
The passenger's side is not such a bad job. The driver's side is a Queen Royal Bitch (mostly because all of the belt-driven accessories are hanging on the driver’s side of the front of LT1/LT4 engines, and they leave little room for you to work or see what you’re doing). With plenty of patience, beer and Band-Aids, you'll get it done.
Live well,
SJW
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