i think the plugs you used are colder but are for a higher spark. thats what they used in the nitrous supercharged applications you need to try tr55
Spark plugs
OK, so I put in a set of plugs that are just one step cooler and the car felt sort of off. Didn't run bad, just off if you follow me.
Pulled them today and the porcelain was white as if the car hadn't run but ten seconds. In reality they have about 2000 miles on them - - - interesting.
Looked at the stock AC's and they were a nice tan and had a good timing mark on the ground strap - - more interesting: but it makes no sense, it should be the opposite. Anyway I put them, AC's, back into the car today and the car just sounds crisper! This makes no sense with the tuning that give both more timing and a leaner mixture. I would expect the opposite. The stock plugs have about 14K on them and 13K of it is after the tune and bolt ons . . .
Never seen this before in anything and I am always eager to listen and learn.
So, what do you think is going on?
Pulled them today and the porcelain was white as if the car hadn't run but ten seconds. In reality they have about 2000 miles on them - - - interesting.
Looked at the stock AC's and they were a nice tan and had a good timing mark on the ground strap - - more interesting: but it makes no sense, it should be the opposite. Anyway I put them, AC's, back into the car today and the car just sounds crisper! This makes no sense with the tuning that give both more timing and a leaner mixture. I would expect the opposite. The stock plugs have about 14K on them and 13K of it is after the tune and bolt ons . . .
Never seen this before in anything and I am always eager to listen and learn.
So, what do you think is going on?
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
I drive hard - - a colder plug should have darker color.
My drag car has an MSD 7AL and it responds to heat ranges in one run. My stroker would do the same thing - - but this one.
And the plug was an NGK TR6 : go figure . . .
My drag car has an MSD 7AL and it responds to heat ranges in one run. My stroker would do the same thing - - but this one.
And the plug was an NGK TR6 : go figure . . .
i know i responded on the other thread when you said you put the tr6 in, its really a nitrous plug. the tr55 is the right one. but i think its hard to get a plug to run the color you would like to have with fi. maybe shut down at finish and read at the end. like the old days. plus no mater what the tune settings are. the computer keeps changingI drive hard - - a colder plug should have darker color.
My drag car has an MSD 7AL and it responds to heat ranges in one run. My stroker would do the same thing - - but this one.
And the plug was an NGK TR6 : go figure . . .
so it always looks lean
I will leave the AC's in for a while and see how they work out - - seat of the pants is important.
Were I to decide on another of my own choice I would go with an Autolite if they make one for this application or a Champion. (yeah, I know, there was a time when they were only good for lawn mowers).
Will let you all know soon.
Were I to decide on another of my own choice I would go with an Autolite if they make one for this application or a Champion. (yeah, I know, there was a time when they were only good for lawn mowers).
Will let you all know soon.
yea i know what you mean. everyone kepts trying to sell me ngk for my boat. thats what they come with stock. but i know the champions work best and thats what i use. thanks for the insight John. i think i will try the champs. i remember in all my other cars in the old days they were always the fastest:thumbsup:I will leave the AC's in for a while and see how they work out - - seat of the pants is important.
Were I to decide on another of my own choice I would go with an Autolite if they make one for this application or a Champion. (yeah, I know, there was a time when they were only good for lawn mowers).
Will let you all know soon.
DEnnis,
The Magnecor wires and the factory plugs are in and you could feel an immediate improvement. Sorry but the car stank with the TR6 plug . .
Will have to see what plug crosses over to Champion from the AC units for future use.
As to insight, that ain't me at all. Mainly blind . .
'dog
The Magnecor wires and the factory plugs are in and you could feel an immediate improvement. Sorry but the car stank with the TR6 plug . .
Will have to see what plug crosses over to Champion from the AC units for future use.
As to insight, that ain't me at all. Mainly blind . .
'dog
John i put he tr55stock #3951 they are cheaper than the factory iridiums and they went the same time. have changed them twice trying to beat my time but runs the same. i remember picking up 2/10s putting in a set of champs every week at the track they lost the least amount of time during the week and when changed were the fastest:thumbsup: but i also degreed them in. and its a real pain to degree the plugs in without gaskets ford 460 mustang.i think i will try on the c6
Degreeing plugs for a street car is not necessary and too many gaskets can change the heat range effect. This is not an issue in a drag car because you are at WOT and not running long enough. I change them about two times a season in the drag car - - getting to be close to that time soon too.
The LS series uses tapered plugs and trying to degree them would be best done by buying about 30 plugs hoping to get ones that degree correctly. No way I would put a gasket on a tapered plug.
I use Bob Benza's plug indexer for the drag car as the R-M plugs must be degreed for clearance. Also, the plug should be degreed so the ground strap is pointing toward the intake runner. This tip came from Jason Line and I think he knows a bit more than most about this matter.
Only way I would degree plugs in a street vette would be if someone paid me to do it - - no advantage for all practical purposes. You are just 'wankin'.
As to the NGK's - they may be good but I never liked them and probably won't use them again.
The LS series uses tapered plugs and trying to degree them would be best done by buying about 30 plugs hoping to get ones that degree correctly. No way I would put a gasket on a tapered plug.
I use Bob Benza's plug indexer for the drag car as the R-M plugs must be degreed for clearance. Also, the plug should be degreed so the ground strap is pointing toward the intake runner. This tip came from Jason Line and I think he knows a bit more than most about this matter.
Only way I would degree plugs in a street vette would be if someone paid me to do it - - no advantage for all practical purposes. You are just 'wankin'.
As to the NGK's - they may be good but I never liked them and probably won't use them again.
thats how i did the the 460 ford get 4 sets mark em and try it in each hole until it s right and i indexed to the intake valve with that car in 1981 it was a street car my only car everyday driver and i won the winston cup championship in pro eliminater on a 11.00 dial in i think their was 480 cars in the class. but like you said i dont like ngks either. in that car i tried accel u grove they suck. motorcraft autolite champion the best in reverse order:thumbsup:Degreeing plugs for a street car is not necessary and too many gaskets can change the heat range effect. This is not an issue in a drag car because you are at WOT and not running long enough. I change them about two times a season in the drag car - - getting to be close to that time soon too.
The LS series uses tapered plugs and trying to degree them would be best done by buying about 30 plugs hoping to get ones that degree correctly. No way I would put a gasket on a tapered plug.
I use Bob Benza's plug indexer for the drag car as the R-M plugs must be degreed for clearance. Also, the plug should be degreed so the ground strap is pointing toward the intake runner. This tip came from Jason Line and I think he knows a bit more than most about this matter.
Only way I would degree plugs in a street vette would be if someone paid me to do it - - no advantage for all practical purposes. You are just 'wankin'.
As to the NGK's - they may be good but I never liked them and probably won't use them again.
Geeze, that is a lot of trouble for a street car -- looks like it paid off for you.
Congrats - - I never beat that many cars in all of my racing. I hope you kept the car!!
Congrats - - I never beat that many cars in all of my racing. I hope you kept the car!!
Damn so I shouldn't be running the TR6's then for a car that will only see ocassional if not rare nitrous use?
common John. it was a national event cars from every state. the best part was these cars were all track cars. all trailerd in . i drove in one slickin the trunk one in the back seat. when i teched in Pro and dialed in 11.00 the look on their faces laughing. at the end of the day i was laughing. and i didnt race that many cars. if i can remember, only 6 rounds. 2 by runs for best reaction, and a no show. i thought the sam thing when they said how many cars was in the classGeeze, that is a lot of trouble for a street car -- looks like it paid off for you.
Congrats - - I never beat that many cars in all of my racing. I hope you kept the car!!
i dont think you have to use them as long as you geta cross reference in the same heat rangeDamn so I shouldn't be running the TR6's then for a car that will only see ocassional if not rare nitrous use?
All I know is that you should have some color on the porcelain, not like a drag motor but some color. My TR6's were like new stone white!! Too hot or something else that eludes me and the stock plugs are back in now.
Off to the drag strip - - have a good day.
Off to the drag strip - - have a good day.
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
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