Okay I agree with all you are saying.. Here is what I have right now..Patrick96LT4 said:Jeff,
#1 timbre matched (don't mix/match speaker brands - but subs can be different). If they aren't matched, you'll FOREVER be trying to EQ the system. And, some speakers will have a tendency to dominate if they are significantly different in tone/sound than the rest.
#2 Component balance (cover all frequencies without overdoing any particular range... don't do 4 tweeters, 2 mid-range, and 8 subs)
#3 location for best imaging... you should not be able to tell where the speakers are with your eyes closed. It should just fill the car with sound with good seperation.
#3 component speakers themselves.
#4 amp technology (ability to handle peaks in music without straining). And, good power by default, with no need to crank the gain control thereby increasing THD.
#5 small/tight subs. 8" preferred, 10" ok. One sub is usually good for one car.
#6 Lastly, invest in a test CD and SPL meter from radio shack. Sit in the driver seat, turn OFF the sub, and get a test CD that can play noise. Watch your meter and turn the volume up to 75 Db.
Then, turn ALL of the speakers off, except for the sub. DO NOT change the volume control. If you have a gain control on your head unit, set it at the half way point (if it is 1-10 do 5) Now, running JUST the subwoofers, run a subwoofer test track off the test CD.
Dial in your sub for 75 DB by starting at zero gain ON THE SUB AMP and increasing the gain on your amp up as needed until you hit 75 db. If you can't get it below 75 Db, you have way to much bass. Set the sub amp to the lowest gain possible, then change the gain on the head unit to 10.
Then, bring the head unit gain down until you hit 75 DB. Now, you have a system that will ACCURATELY reproduce music.
Lastly, run the frequency-sweep track. That'll run a tone from 25,000 hz down to 20 hz. By listening to the sweeping tone, you can hear if you have any gaps or weakness to play certain ranges, or if some ranges are overboard (you can then play with crossovers or EQ ranges down).
Ok, I'm rambling at this point.
I think it is A-1 critical to first get your system set up to play music ACCURATELY. Leave it like this and don't mess with levels/settings for 2 weeks. You'll get used to how music is SUPPOSED to sound.
Lastly, resist the urge to monkey with the EQ after you get it dialed in. You'll forever be chasing your tail trying to get the system to sound "right".
Orion HCCA 5s Seperates (5.25 and 1" tweet)
Earthquake EQ6 6" midbass (decent for bass in my vette)
pair of Infinity Tweets (wired 180deg and used to fill an obvious void)
A/D/S PH12 6channel non- bridgeable 25 watts per (may upgrade someday)
Crossover from 6" to 5.25 is around 120Hz.
My 5.25" are mounted in the doors and the tweets are in the bottom corners of the dash.
I NEED to move the tweeters to somewhere in the door and I think I can remove the rear tweeters and have a good sounding system.
I have an active crossover an A/D/S 642CSi which has a bass control as well.
I honestly think if I could move the tweeters and find that perfect spot, then get an A/D/S PH15 (old school 50watts per channel Bridgeable 6channel) It will be the perfect set-up..