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Discussion Starter #501
No doubt I will post some video when the time comes for it's first crank. I can tell everyone it will be next summer before that happens. The plans are to remove all the body paint this fall. Then the firewall and inside of the front clip will be painted. The body and front clip will be put back on. Maybe then I can wire it and give it a start. That all depends on my paint window because I would like to paint when it's warm weather. I haven't gotten in a hurry so far and I have been paying attention to detail. I love working in her so I will carry on as before. Looks like I will spend 7 or 8 years from start to finish.


:cheers:
Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #502
Time for a update, I have been fitting the intake and all the components along with polishing. I really like how it's turned out and all is coming together as I had envisioned. Here's what I have so far.


The old intake had been off the engine for a couple of years and had rusted on the mating surfaces, so I had to sand it clean before I mounted the intake. Here's a few shots of the 8.1 opened up, she looks massive compared to a small block. Notice how clean it is with only 5000 miles on her.
















Here's some shots of the intake being put on






The Dart intake has provisions for a distributor if you don't want to go electronic. In my case I made a plug as I want be needing the distributor hole.




Fuel rails being installed






Elbow installed












Polished the throttle body and installed









Emblems installed on the valve covers



Fuel lines installed and a home made T that I polished and installed a fuel pressure gauge on.



Injector wiring installed with connector



This is the charcoal canister purge valve, I have kept the original system that most don't use.



A few misc. shots






Notice where I have plugged the distributor hole.



I have started on the coil packs, planning on mounting them where the distributor would normally go to give it that old school feel.









Lokor dip stick installed



That's all folks for now, stay tuned more to come. :D



:cheers:
Mark
 

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I really like what you're doing with the coil packs. Great idea!!
Overall it looks absolutely stunning. Would like to see an overall photo of the whole chassis.

You're making good progress, enjoy your posts.

Hmmmmmmm!! Are those nitrous ports in the back of the intake just below the flange?
 

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Discussion Starter #504
I really like what you're doing with the coil packs. Great idea!!
Overall it looks absolutely stunning. Would like to see an overall photo of the whole chassis.

You're making good progress, enjoy your posts.

Hmmmmmmm!! Are those nitrous ports in the back of the intake just below the flange?
Thanks 7T, the coil packs were in the plan for some time now but I didn't know if there was enough room to fit them. Looks like there will be just enough, I will have to make all the wires nice and neat to pull it off. The ports are vaccum ports but nitros could work.
 

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NICE Mark!!!

Really like your attention to detail!!!

I took my coilpacs and staggered them save a little room- and the wires on the bottom made it easier to hide.

I have some left over Taylor 8mm wire- as I bought a big spool of it- let me know if you need it...and I think I have some boots too as I had to buy them in packs of 8!!!

DSCN5046 by Richard Hayes, on Flickr
 

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how about mounting the coils in between the fuel rails and valve covers and routing 2 wires around front and 2 wires around back of the valve convers? or even fender mounting them? I know that sounds weird, but that intake is just such a nice piece it should be out in plain sight and not buried under stuff. You really did well with that intake and it is very nice to look at. Those thick runners running down to the heads from the elbow really create a mean look. And in a c3, the back of the motor is what you see when you open the hood.
 

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Discussion Starter #508
Wiz that is a good idea, I'll have to study on it. It doesn't help that I made a mount today to set it up in the area I was holding it in. Just never thought about the rear of the engine being a focal point.
 

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Discussion Starter #511
Finished mounting the coil packs, what a pain. It doesn't look like much but fitting and refitting a dozen times to get it like I wanted it. Autowiz I really liked the ideas you suggested but I could not pull it off without doing some disassembly and I'am just to far behind to do that. The whole assembly can be removed by taking the 2 bolts out where it mounts to the rear block. Here's some pictures.














Painted the coil packs and powder coated the mount. The coils are held together with all thread rod and spacers.



















And the results






















Next i'll make a wire harness for the coils and spark plug wires, stay tuned in for more!!



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Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #514
Worked on the coil pack control wiring and spark plug wires this week. I had to rebuild the coil pack wire harness as the factory harness exits out the middle. I also painted the connectors, they were looking bad. I used a split wire loom to cover the wires. The spark plug wires were also covered with a sealed wire loom. I bought the plug wires about 3 years ago 10.4 mm Taylor and thought i was going with a different color scheme. The blue was not working with the engine so I ended up with the covering, just couldn't see spending another $100 bucks on black wires. I have about 12 hours just in the plug wire install alone. The coil control wiring is another 6 hours. It takes lots of time when you are trying to get good results.


































































Its got the look of the alien in the movie predator :rolling: I ordered the Vintage air condenser and dryer kit so I can finish the front of the radiator. I have a power steering cooler that also installs in the front. Stay tuned more to come!



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Mark
 

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Ignition wire length and routing are a big thing to me. They can really make or break the appearance of an engine. It always looks the best when the wires are completely off the valve covers just like you've done. :cheers: This is going to be one sick gen vii BBC. :thumbsup:
 

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Great work!!!

I like the symmetrical look of the wires and how you adjusted length to match the run. The wire cover is cool too, haven't seen a woven split loom before. Where did you find that?

I don't mean to be a stick in the mud, I don't recall my big block having anywhere near that much room between the back of the intake and the firewall. The rear head cleared with like 3/4" or so. I noticed the fuel crossover is sticking back a bit too.

Again not a dig, the work is fabulous. Might it save you some time in the long run to do a test fit of the body?
 

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Discussion Starter #517
Great work!!!

I like the symmetrical look of the wires and how you adjusted length to match the run. The wire cover is cool too, haven't seen a woven split loom before. Where did you find that?

I don't mean to be a stick in the mud, I don't recall my big block having anywhere near that much room between the back of the intake and the firewall. The rear head cleared with like 3/4" or so. I noticed the fuel crossover is sticking back a bit too.

Again not a dig, the work is fabulous. Might it save you some time in the long run to do a test fit of the body?


The split loom came from Ebay a vendor called furryletters. I have bought from him many times with super fast shipping and I highly recommend him.

7T you are correct questioning the clearance, normally there is not that much room between the firewall and the engine. When I mocked up the frame with the 8.1L installed I sat the body back on to check for clearances, mostly for the 4L80E transmission. I took multiple pictures and lucky snapped a few of the firewall clearance. Here's what I have, the 8.1 sits a little bit forward of the firewall unlike the generations before. If you look at these pictures you can see the clearances.

























Thanks for keeping me in line 7T, anything that you can see please feel free to comment, it could save me down the road. Hopefully it want be to much longer until I set the body back on. Another note, I set out to make this engine look better than the factory 8.1L look that's why I posted the last picture.


:cheers:
Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #518
Ignition wire length and routing are a big thing to me. They can really make or break the appearance of an engine. It always looks the best when the wires are completely off the valve covers just like you've done. :cheers: This is going to be one sick gen vii BBC. :thumbsup:
Thanks wiz I totally agree with you. My oldest son and I did a 68 camero with a 427 about 3 years ago. We spent a lot of time making sure all the wiring was hidden as much as possible. Thats a hard thing to do on a modern fuel injected engine but it is achievable.









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Mark
 

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I think 7T might have a point about your fuel gauge, Mark. Your mockup pictures do not show the wiper motor installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #520
When I bought my Vette the previous owner had replaced the front clip as well as the interior. My Vette is a 76 but he had put a 79 interior in it. I really liked the original 76 interior and not so much the 79. The problem with changing it back is all the bits and pieces that make up the 76 are not there. I started looking for all the pieces and soon figured out it would cost a small fortune to buy each one individually. So not to many complete interiors out there for sale. Over the last 5 years I have been keeping a lookout for one. All I have seen was vettes around selling for $1200 to $2000 for a car with what I needed. This weekend I was looking over the local Craigslist and a 74 vette was listed as a parts car and was listed at $600. I was at work and throughout the day it was eating at me. I sent a text to the seller and he replied back. Said he had 4 other people wanting the vette but none of them could get their until the next day. He said he had come down to $500 on it but it was first come and he would not save it for anyone. I text him back and asked if I could pick it up late that night. He said yes and when I got off work I called him and found out all the details. Its a 74 without the engine or transmission. The front clip is off and it came with 3 front fenders and 2 hoods. He said the interior was complete and it had the tilt, telescoping column. The rear end was all there and I had to take all the parts because he needed the room. I asked him if I came that night if he would take $450 cash and he replied come and get it. I loaded up my car hauler armed with a chain type come along and plenty of straps and headed to Memphis Tenn about a 90 mile drive one way. Here's what I came home with.































From what I have seen the tilt telescoping column is worth what I gave for the whole car. I'll be able to use many parts and sell the rest. The frame has rust in some places but looks like its limited. The 74 split rear bumper is a fiberglass from Eklers. Looks like the gas tank is newer and has a steel leaf spring. I will eventually pull the rear diff and may build a super 10 bolt. My hood has many cracks in the fiberglass frame, the red hood that came with the 74 is crack free. I will also be able to use the right fender and inner skirt. My rear inner skirts both are not in good shape but the 74 skirts are untouched. There are many small parts I can use that the 74 has. I just can't tell you guys how happy I am, what a great weekend. :D



:cheers:
Mark
 
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