Corvette Forum : DigitalCorvettes.com Corvette Forums banner

521 - 540 of 549 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
181 Posts
All that for $450 ? what a bargain ! well worth the trip , especially if the frame is sell-able.

I'm guessing it got hit in the front right corner ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,441 Posts
Discussion Starter #522
Scored a set of C5 seats today from Craigs list for $200. I will probably rebuild these, foam and covers. The leather is not tore or worn but looks like something heavy was siting in them and made indention's. I cleaned and soaked them with leather conditioner, we will see how they do.































nothing else to report been busy with grand babies and Christmas.

Merry Christmas everyone.
Mark
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,441 Posts
Discussion Starter #525
In Mississippi we are allowed to run an original tag from the year the car was built. Their is a process to make this happen. That being said I have looked high and low for a 1976 Mississippi Lee County Car tag, with no results until yesterday. A local guy posted in the buy sell trade add on FB several tags for the seventies and one of them was what I had been looking for. He wanted $30 for it and needless to say I bought it.




It don't look like much but this made my day :D It has a little patina and is fine with me, I think it will go good with a my restored vette.



:cheers:
Mark
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,838 Posts
In Mississippi we are allowed to run an original tag from the year the car was built. Their is a process to make this happen. That being said I have looked high and low for a 1976 Mississippi Lee County Car tag, with no results until yesterday. A local guy posted in the buy sell trade add on FB several tags for the seventies and one of them was what I had been looking for. He wanted $30 for it and needless to say I bought it.



It don't look like much but this made my day :D It has a little patina and is fine with me, I think it will go good with a my restored vette.
:cheers:
Mark
Damn! Now that's a score! Very cool Mark. :thumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,441 Posts
Discussion Starter #528
The weather has been unseasonably warm here in North Mississippi. I have found time to work on the body of my project and make some decisions. The red hood was parts of my parts car buy and the inner frame is crack free. The top of the hood has thousands of small bubbles between the paint and the fiberglass. There is a corvette painter named DUB that I trust as he has been doing vette repair for a living for many years. He advised me that the bubbles were from moisture, most likely because of a car cover. In his professional opinion using the red hood was hit and miss for the bubbles coming back. That being said my only problem with my original hood was the inner frame is badly cracked. I am attempting to remove the inner frame on the red hood and am going to install it on the original hood. I got a little board and placed the CIC body parts on the vette to see what it will look like. This inspired me to scrape some paint LOL. The main body is now paint free with just some lacquer primer to remove. I found the heat gun and gasket scraper were the best way to scrape the paint off. Although everyone says not to use a DA on the fiberglass panels I don't see what it would hurt if controlled properly. Maybe some of you that have done this can chime in. Here are a few pictures of my progress enjoy.

































































Next is the front clip paint removal, repairing the firewall and putting some fiberglass parts on the cowl area that the parts car donated.



:cheers:
Mark
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,776 Posts
Hey Mark,

Looks like you got the fever, again! Great progress, huge milestone getting the old paint off.

I've used a DA on glass before but you have to use a fine grit of paper and be very careful. You don't want to go to deep, if you sand the glass the wavy surface it creates is a nightmare to flatten back out. What you don't want to do is sand down into the glass. If you use a course grit you will go to deep before you notice it. Few have the patience to bring old paint down with finer grits (320 or less) of paper then stop when the base coat of primer is reached.

On the bubbles, have seen that on a few occasions and what usually causes that is painting over primer that isn't completely cured. The bubbles come from the carrier solvent de-gaussing under the paint. Be sure to use a catalyst type of primer to seal the glass with sanding primer on top of that.

Just my $.02
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
340 Posts
The weather has been unseasonably warm here in North Mississippi. I have found time to work on the body of my project and make some decisions. The red hood was parts of my parts car buy and the inner frame is crack free. The top of the hood has thousands of small bubbles between the paint and the fiberglass. There is a corvette painter named DUB that I trust as he has been doing vette repair for a living for many years. He advised me that the bubbles were from moisture, most likely because of a car cover. In his professional opinion using the red hood was hit and miss for the bubbles coming back. That being said my only problem with my original hood was the inner frame is badly cracked. I am attempting to remove the inner frame on the red hood and am going to install it on the original hood. I got a little board and placed the CIC body parts on the vette to see what it will look like. This inspired me to scrape some paint LOL. The main body is now paint free with just some lacquer primer to remove. I found the heat gun and gasket scraper were the best way to scrape the paint off. Although everyone says not to use a DA on the fiberglass panels I don't see what it would hurt if controlled properly. Maybe some of you that have done this can chime in. Here are a few pictures of my progress enjoy.

Next is the front clip paint removal, repairing the firewall and putting some fiberglass parts on the cowl area that the parts car donated.

:cheers:
Mark

Those pictures represent a TON of work! Nicely done. Keep it up. :thumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,517 Posts
Hey, glad to see you have been really busy.
I sanded my whole car when I did mine. Looking back... I might have done it differently but it worked out okay.
BTW, your shop is looking great. Wish I had a space like that to work in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,441 Posts
Discussion Starter #532
Thanks guys I was sore for a day after the paint removal. I did enjoy seeing the paint chips hit the ground though. Thanks for all the kind words and tips. I know I put way to much thought into this but I just want to get it right the first time. Brent thanks for the video, I can recall seeing you use a DA during your build. Did you have any problems with waves in the glass after you were through? I feel like I move a DA pretty well not letting it sit in one spot to long creating low spots. The shop is real nice to work in, its 30 x 30 with a 10 x 36 connected storage area separate from the main room. All my supplies are stored there and allows more room for equipment. I have bought most of my supplies to do the body work, damn that was expensive. after all the paint is removed, doors,hood, front clip and t-tops, ill concentrate on the firewall. Then the body can be put on the frame and aligned. Then comes the flares, oh yea. Sounds like a lot of work but its really not that bad.


:cheers:
Mark
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,523 Posts
Nice progress Mark. Those body work supplies aren't cheap and use them somewhat quickly or end up like me having to buy again once I restart on my project. I haven't seen really any low spots when using the DA, but sometimes I held in one spot getting the rotted paint off. Can't wait to see the finished product.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,517 Posts
Mark, I didn't have any low spots, but I did round off a few body lines that had to be redone by the skilled labor. It took quite a while to sand. I wish it went as fast as that video.
I need to get busy on mine too. Warmer days are on the way.
:cheers:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,441 Posts
Discussion Starter #537 (Edited)
I had no idea the firewall would be such a pain. It's striped down to raw fiberglass now. Found a few cracks that need repairing and I need to finish filling some more holes. There are 4 fiberglass pieces I took off the donor car that will be fitted to the cowl section. Not a big update but a lot of work. I found it best to use my heat gun and gasket scraper to remove the excess gobs of adhesive, black goo and what ever the white stuff is under it. Then lacquer thinner and a brass brush wiping with paper towels as I went. After everything was close to clean I went over it with more lacquer a scotch pad and wiped with paper towels. I don't see how GM could get this anymore screwed up than it was. It's like they said who gives a rats ass what the under hood looks like, just throw it together :nuts:












Oh don't worry about the black at the bottom of the firewall it's lizard skin insulation. I didn't want to deal with it on a painted firewall so I stopped it low on the outside and sprayed it all the way up on the inside.


I cant believe how nice the weather has been, just perfect for using a heat gun and scraping. Stay tuned in, more to come.



:cheers:
Mark
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,071 Posts
Not too often I get a chance to see what's in back of the firewall...
Would it be too much trouble to take a shot of the channel in back of the firewall on the pass side. I think I'm missing a piece to divert the water from the fresh air door on that side and a pic of that area would help a lot!
Thanks!!!


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,441 Posts
Discussion Starter #540
Not too often I get a chance to see what's in back of the firewall...
Would it be too much trouble to take a shot of the channel in back of the firewall on the pass side. I think I'm missing a piece to divert the water from the fresh air door on that side and a pic of that area would help a lot!
Thanks!!!


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App


Sly sorry it took so long getting back to you, work got in the way LOL. The area you are referring to I don't have good pictures with it intact but here's a link that should help you. It shows this area very well and it's your year style.

http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c3-tech-performance/1603197-water-leaks.html

Look at all the pictures and you will see what your looking for. I think the last picture is what you need. Its a flap that is actuated buy a vacuum device. The frame it is mounted to is fiberglass and looks like a POS. It's really there to block off air and not water as I see it. Any water that gets by it should drain down to the bottom of the fender and out a rectangular hole that stays open. I couldn't see how you would have any room to repair this area with the fender on. On my vette I"am removing this all together because the fresh air to the cabin will be glassed over. This area is a major leak of engine heat due to the old adhesive joints cracking and leaving openings to the cabin. This is one of the areas when the hood seals are missing the cowl fills with heat and transfers to the cabin. You need any more info let me know :thumbsup:



:cheers:
Mark
 
521 - 540 of 549 Posts
Top