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DC Crew
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Boy, sure is fun working on the C4's starter. :rolling: :nuts:

Needed to get it fully loose to wrap a heat shield around it. Came together pretty well, after I got it free. Gave me a brief struggle to get back into place but it's in there after some persuasion.

After driving for a bit on any warm days, my starter is heat soaked bad. Takes two or three good tries to get it to completely fire up after taking a stop at or store, etc. Poor thing is blasted by the exhaust manifold and the air/pavement temps do nothing to aid in cooling between starts. Hope the heat shields gives it some help.

Anyone else run into this issue?

What'd you do that helped it out? (Different type of starter, stronger heat shield, move North for cooler weather?)
 

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I wrapped my starter with this **** during a Header Install - I'm expecting ZERO problems...wish i knew where I can buy more of this stuff....

 

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I have starter heat soak problems on my old pontiac. at one point I did wrap the starter up in a heat shield blanket. - and I think it was working a small amount better. but not much. I believe the problem lies in the starter getting hot and then the shielded blanket thing I had over it was kinda keeping the heat trapped inside.

once I wrapped the headers in header tape my hot start problem was pretty good and gone. ( probly cause my headers are right next to the starter ) and when my starter went bad on me, I replaced it and never put that blanket back on it. its working good now.
btw,
if you decide to wrap the headers in that heat wrap stuff, do your self a favor and take them completely off the car. that stuff is a pain in the butt to use, and cramped working space makes it near impossible.
 

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i,m a retied mechanic [29 yrs selfemployed] i learned years ago caddies,olds,buick etc high tor. starters from rebuilders suck.find an auto elect shop and have them custom build one or get new brushes,under cut arm. fine sand arm. ,align brushes and never look back.they are not hard to rebuild yourself.heat soak makes the mica lift the brushes off the arm. thats why under cutting is so important,a broken hacksaw blade cuts them perfect.before ya do this have a load test done and an amp draw test
 

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i,m a retied mechanic [29 yrs selfemployed] i learned years ago caddies,olds,buick etc high tor. starters from rebuilders suck.find an auto elect shop and have them custom build one or get new brushes,under cut arm. fine sand arm. ,align brushes and never look back.they are not hard to rebuild yourself.heat soak makes the mica lift the brushes off the arm. thats why under cutting is so important,a broken hacksaw blade cuts them perfect.before ya do this have a load test done and an amp draw test
:agree:

Hi, Dan -

If I remember right, you're still running stock exhausts - no headers or any other engine compartment mods.

I'm assuming that this is a new problem (or has been gradually coming on over time). If so, adding a heat shield probably means that you'll be back under the car again some day.

There are three areas that need to be examined. The problem could lie with the battery, the battery cables, or the starter. Any of these subsystems can be adversely affected by heat when they begin to fail.

The first thing I'd do is get the battery load tested cold, and then drive around for a while (in order to get to the same heat soak condition whereby the starter has trouble), then have the battery load tested again. That should eliminate the battery as a cause.

The battery cables can also be a problem. Have you removed them from the battery terminals and cleaned them? As electrical wiring gets hot, it's resistance to electrical flow increases, which increases the draw on the battery for a hot start. When I was a pup mechanic, I ran into a "hard start when hot" problem that kicked my butt. I did all the obvious things - battery test, solenoid test, bench tested the starter - and couldn't find a problem. My wise father asked me about the battery cables, and brought home an Ohm meter from work. When the cables were cold, their resistance was low enough to allow a start (not the best start, but good enough). As soon as the engine compartment got hot, the cables changed resistance sufficiently to prevent a start. Remove & replace cables, and the problem vanished.

Before I'd add a heat shield, I'd yank the starter off and take it to an electrical shop and have them bench test it for you. Then you'll know if the starter is OK.

In my opinion, if the starter is marginal, the heat shield may help for a while, until the starter gets worse, and then the problem will resurface. Since the car hasn't always behaved this way, then best to track down and resolve the real issue at the beginning rather than treat symptoms. ;)

Call or PM me if you have any questions.

Good Luck!

Steven
 

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DC Crew
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks guys, good to read all the different stories and tips.

Bet there are lots of folks out there running into the same thing in this dreaded heat.

In my opinion, if the starter is marginal, the heat shield may help for a while, until the starter gets worse, and then the problem will resurface.
Yup, that's exactly where I'm at. I have a stock starter that fires up wonderfully at all times other than when I've been driving for awhile on super hot days. New battery, clean terminals.

I'm just trying to help the starter out on those sweltering days. I want to stretch the life span of the starter for as long as I can until I have to upgrade.
 

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I've got an Asbestos/Foil/Velcro blanket wrapped around the one on my Jimmy 4.3 with Long tubes, and have had zero problems since. It's made by DEI or something like that.
 
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