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Discussion Starter #1
trying to get the engine cranked over for the first time since the wreck. The battery is dead as a doornail (not sure why that happened since it's been disconnected since the day of the wreck) so I've got a set of jumpers hooked to my Jeep's battery. I've got 12V at the large terminal on the starter solenoid. Then I have a small yellow wire going to one terminal and a slightly heavier purple wire going to a different terminal. If I'm reading this wiring diagram correctly, the purple wire goes to the clutch pedal switch and then up to the ignition switch. Is that correct? I'm assuming I should see 12V at the purple wire when the key in in the "start" position? What's the yellow wire for? The starter grounds through the block, correct?

I'm planning to trace the purple wire back to the fuse block and then up to the clutch switch. Is the ignition switch easy to replace, or does it involve some steering column disassembly?

Thanks for any help you can offer! :cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter #2
well, nevermind on the wiring questions. I tinkered with it for a bit and then asked the g/f to try to crank it over while I watched the voltmeter. I'll be damned if the thing didn't try to crank :laughing:

However, now I've got a separate issue. When you turn the key the stater/solenoid clicks rapidly and the engine only turns a few degrees. I've put a ratchet on the balancer bolt and it turned smoothly through several rotations, so it's not siezed or locked up. Any ideas?
 

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trying to get the engine cranked over for the first time since the wreck. The battery is dead as a doornail (not sure why that happened since it's been disconnected since the day of the wreck) so I've got a set of jumpers hooked to my Jeep's battery. I've got 12V at the large terminal on the starter solenoid. Then I have a small yellow wire going to one terminal and a slightly heavier purple wire going to a different terminal. If I'm reading this wiring diagram correctly, the purple wire goes to the clutch pedal switch and then up to the ignition switch. Is that correct? I'm assuming I should see 12V at the purple wire when the key in in the "start" position? What's the yellow wire for? The starter grounds through the block, correct?

I'm planning to trace the purple wire back to the fuse block and then up to the clutch switch. Is the ignition switch easy to replace, or does it involve some steering column disassembly?

Thanks for any help you can offer! :cheers:

Actual the ignition switch is located at the base of the steering column. and is very easy to replace. They seldom go bad. Depending on the model the purple wire route different.

It can go threw a clutch switch, or a neutral switch. I had to tie mine together in the center console when I removed the autotrans. It is a safety line that makes sure you are in neutral or have the clutch pushed all the way to the floor before it will let the starter run. You will only see 12v when all these switches are closed. Also Jason remember you have no ground At the starter the way your car sets now. So you will need to run a grd to the frame plus to the engine block...:D
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'll definitely have to replace the ground strap at some point, but it seems to be finding ground somewhere. That strap has been missing since the day I bought this thing :laughing:

I think I'll get the front end in the air and look for any signs of mis-alignment of the starter to the flywheel/bellhousing. Might just be time for a mini-starter..
 

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Don't for get you have a big ground strap missing to the frame with out the Z bar in there... (Got to love engineers) Yep its the same starter(the same design)so it should work? But there is a lot of other things have changed. Just put the ground strap on and you won't burn any thing else up...:laughing::laughing::laughing:

Come on bro work with me here... J/K :devil:
 

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There should be a ground cable from the right motor mount stand (frame mount) to the block. If that's missing, then the only grounds are the one at the right rear from the harness for the blower motor, and the one to the back of the alternator. Both of those are like 18 ga wire- nowhere near enough for a starter current load.
The Z-bar might carry some of the load, but I wouldn't rely on it alone. With the grease and the nylon bushings, it may or may not make the ground.
 

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The yellow wire is the shunt for the ballast resister on a point style ignition, bypassing the resister during start.
"Clicking" of the starter is a sign of a weak battery. It has sulfided during storage. Change it, and it will start.
 

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The yellow wire is the shunt for the ballast resister on a point style ignition, bypassing the resister during start.
"Clicking" of the starter is a sign of a weak battery. It has sulfided during storage. Change it, and it will start.

Or a bad connection or poor ground. No sence throwing money at the problem, with out finding the cause...
 

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My bet is if it was as dead as he said and he only has jumper cables on it it's the battery. Take the battery out of the Jeep and put it in the Vette. Take the bad battery/jumper cables out of the equation.:thumbsup:
 

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My bet is if it was as dead as he said and he only has jumper cables on it it's the battery. Take the battery out of the Jeep and put it in the Vette. Take the bad battery/jumper cables out of the equation.:thumbsup:
:agree: Thats what I would have did...:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I did take the battery out of the equation by disconnecting it from the cables when I had it hooked up to the jumpers. I'd be surprised if the jumper cables were killing enough voltage to cause an issue, but I suppose it's a possibility. I'll add the ground strap first and see where that gets me.

Now that the Jeep has new pads, rotors, and front calipers, hopefully I'll have some time to work on the 'vette this week.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
just pulled out the receipt for the Optima Red Top I have in there right now from October 16, 2006. It has a 6 year (72 month) warranty, with 3 year free replacement. If I'm reading this correctly they should give me 24/72 of the original purchase ($149.99) price toward a new battery. It may only be $50, but it's better than a kick in the pants. Maybe I'll pick one up this week and make sure to throw the charger on it periodically until the 'vette is back up and running. :huh:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The yellow wire is the shunt for the ballast resister on a point style ignition, bypassing the resister during start.
"Clicking" of the starter is a sign of a weak battery. It has sulfided during storage. Change it, and it will start.
thanks for the clarification on the yellow wire, Bird. I saw on the diagram that it went up to the coil, but wasn't sure of its purpose. You're saying that the yellow wire provides ground to the coil from the starter solenoid rather than through the resistor wire coming from the ignition switch? Give me a quick reminder of the purpose of the ballast resistor again if you would. I've still got an MSD Blaster 2 coil sitting in a box because after I purchased it I found out it's supposed to be used with a ballast resistor that I didn't want to mess with mounting under the hood.
 

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thanks for the clarification on the yellow wire, Bird. I saw on the diagram that it went up to the coil, but wasn't sure of its purpose. You're saying that the yellow wire provides ground to the coil from the starter solenoid rather than through the resistor wire coming from the ignition switch? Give me a quick reminder of the purpose of the ballast resistor again if you would. I've still got an MSD Blaster 2 coil sitting in a box because after I purchased it I found out it's supposed to be used with a ballast resistor that I didn't want to mess with mounting under the hood.
On a point style distributer, the points switch the ground on and off.
The resister is to "limit" the current to 4amps to prevent the points from burning. 12v/3ohms = 4amperes
The yellow"shunt" wire provides full 12v with no "current limiting" to aid start up.
The resister is used with point stlye ignition only. It is neither needed nor desired with HEI or cap discharge ignitions.
The proper resister formula is "coil primary" resistence + ballast resisiter = 3ohms.
 

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DC Crew
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just pulled out the receipt for the Optima Red Top I have in there right now from October 16, 2006. It has a 6 year (72 month) warranty, with 3 year free replacement. If I'm reading this correctly they should give me 24/72 of the original purchase ($149.99) price toward a new battery. It may only be $50, but it's better than a kick in the pants. Maybe I'll pick one up this week and make sure to throw the charger on it periodically until the 'vette is back up and running. :huh:
Just swap it into your daily driver every other week or two for a week or two and you will keep both batteries up and running.:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
she's alive!

took a trip down to Autozone and got my new Optima for $109 after tax. Warranty on the old one got me exactly $50 off. If I can find an old battery to take in for the core I'll get another $13 back. Stopped by O'reilley's looking for a ground strap, but no luck. Came home, dropped the battery in, hooked her up, and she cranked over no problem. Cranked it a few times and reconnected the coil. Turned the key and got two HELLACIOUS backfires out the passenger sidepipe. With the pipe just 18" from the wall and with no doors on the car I thought my eardrum was gonna pop. Checked the plug wires and sure enough, #6 and #8 were swapped :nuts:

Switch 'em back, turn the key, and BINGO! We've got life. Didn't let her run for too long. Just enough to see that oil pressure came up to 35 as normal and everything seemed to run smooth. I took some quick video, but it's too dark to see much of anything.



Back to the topic at hand, where would be a good place to find the right ground strap? Seems like I just saw them not long ago, but can't remember where. :huh:
 

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she's alive!

took a trip down to Autozone and got my new Optima for $109 after tax. Warranty on the old one got me exactly $50 off. If I can find an old battery to take in for the core I'll get another $13 back. Stopped by O'reilley's looking for a ground strap, but no luck. Came home, dropped the battery in, hooked her up, and she cranked over no problem. Cranked it a few times and reconnected the coil. Turned the key and got two HELLACIOUS backfires out the passenger sidepipe. With the pipe just 18" from the wall and with no doors on the car I thought my eardrum was gonna pop. Checked the plug wires and sure enough, #6 and #8 were swapped :nuts:

Switch 'em back, turn the key, and BINGO! We've got life. Didn't let her run for too long. Just enough to see that oil pressure came up to 35 as normal and everything seemed to run smooth. I took some quick video, but it's too dark to see anything.

Back to the topic at hand, where would be a good place to find the right ground strap? Seems like I just saw them not long ago, but can't remember where. :huh:
Very good Jason.
If you want an "authentic" ground strap, any vette vendor. If you don't care, just buy a 12"-14" batt-cable with crimped lugs both ends, and bolt it on. Clean the steel, and use a star washer to ensure a good connection.:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Very good Jason.
If you want an "authentic" ground strap, any vette vendor. If you don't care, just buy a 12"-14" batt-cable with crimped lugs both ends, and bolt it on. Clean the steel, and use a star washer to ensure a good connection.:thumbsup:
I guess I could pay the $32 for a "correct" ground cable :surprised
https://www.paragoncorvette.com/p-350815-starter-ground-cable.aspx

For some reason I was picturing a flat braided strap, but I'll see if I can find a short battery cable. :thumbsup:
 
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