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Discussion Starter #1
Ok I changed the oil again and this time only put in 5 qts of oil in my MOROSO oil pan that is supposed to hold 7 qts. Nothing leaked at idle so I took it out for about a 2 hour drive. Car ran great. Oil pressure was between 50-75psi. I have a pcv on one cover and a vented push in cap on the other. Came back home and the oil had blown out the dipstick hole again where the tube pushes into the pan opening!!!! Is there supposed to be an "o" ring in the end of the tube that sticks in the pan? Why is this happening all of a sudden? This has just started sense I changed from a PCV vented cap to a regular pcv on the passenger side cover and a vented cap on the drivers side. Would it make a difference to put the pcv on the drivers side and the vented cap on the passenger side? Or eliminate the pcv and run 2 vented caps? Or Is this Mr. Gasket tube just a peice of crap!!!!????

Thanks
Wade
 

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No "O" ring. I just put a dab of sealer on my GM tube and bolted it in. You might enlarge the tube a tad with a drift.
 

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I vote for the MG tube being a POS, and being chrome, i'ts making is inaccurate so allows more leaking....smaller diameter in mfg...plus X amount for plating= not so sure the perzact size to ensure a really tight snug fit that won't leak but damn little if at all....some of them over the years, I have had to hammer in by the crimp with a wrench around it...super PIA, when 'ts in the damn CAR allready....don't ask how I know this ****.....:spanked:

at any rate, I agree with Bird there, we put a good sweet smelling sanitary clean up to that fellow, and then use a dap of RTV and let cure overnight, with top of tube bolted down by typical exhaust manifold bolt.....

leak NOW, bitch....


:laughing: :devil:

edit, my typing stinks....
 

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I have the 8 quart pan on my big block. Had the same problem - my was two fold. One - the pan seal to front time cover was leaking - drove me nuts. Wouldn't do in the driveway - only under a steady RPM. Almost lost my mind over that one.

Two - I had problems with the dipstick. Now, I also have a custom stick, but it connects the same way. I end up using a piece of fuel line (3/8 I think) and slid it over the pan and stick, then clamped it down. No more lose stick, no more leaks - fixed it with spare parts and clamps I had in the tool box.
 

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Someone may have already asked- DO you have the lower dipstick tube installed??
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Someone may have already asked- DO you have the lower dipstick tube installed??

Thanks guys. Yes the lower tube is installed. I am going to pull it out tonight and try a little sealant. I am also going to put the vented cap back on the passenger side VC and disconnect the PCV and see if that fixes the issue. This is driving me nuts and making me not want to make anymore progress on completing the car.

Wade
 

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I take it it's leaking at the tube to block? and not coming out the top of the tube. Pull the tube, and swell it up a little or RTV the tube back in the block. Clean the tube and swab the block with some alcohol, then RTV it. Getting the oil off lets the RTV stick.

:cheers:
 

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What if you put the PCV stuff back to see if it still leaks? Since you know that this started when you changed them out.

If the Mr. Gasket tube is not venting the crankcase very well your building pressure and the dipstick tube is the path of least resistance....

I saw this a long long time ago and the PCV was clogged...... RTV'ing the tube might work but I do not know of this as a practice so something must be wrong. I could understand how building the engine up could cause the same problem depending what you did, but for a different reason.

Rd
 

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Do your valve covers have oil baffle's? If not check your beather, depending on the type it can get blocked with crud...escpecially if you have foam inside.
 

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??????

What engine are we talking about. on mine one side is a pvc and the other go to the air cleaner. seems to me that this would keep a constant flow and stop any oil blow by.
Just a thought.
NOT AN EXPERT.
 

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I am going to pull it out tonight and try a little sealant. I am also going to put the vented cap back on the passenger side VC and disconnect the PCV and see if that fixes the issue.

Only do one at a time, otherwise you won't know what the problem was.... well... that's IF you want to know... sometimes it's easier to not care or worry anymore.... it's fixed and fuggettaboutit..... LOL
 

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I dunno what it is, but I have never had an engine with what I would consider minimal blow by, not one, not ever, I remember years ago I found a Datsun 810 wagon I had would not run with the oil cap off, it was so tight on that oil controll for some reason....cute....even it had oil drip problems,

every V8 I have ever had, has some sort of sneaky oiling problems, like the late valve covers on the 113 alum factory heads on there now, the filler cap and the pcv valve insist on weeping oil all over the joint, just will not stay dry....

:crazy: :crazy: :surprised :WTF
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks guys! Great information. I am starting to come around on the switching forum issue after only 1 reply on the other one. But that is a topic for a different thread.

The PCV and the vent cap are both new. I am going to plug back in the old setup tomorrow and see if the issue is resolved. If it is then at least I have a direction to go in. I still think I have a screwed up dipstick. The pan is supposed to hold 7 qts but even at 5 qts the level is showing way above the full mark. Any recommendations on what is a good dip stick? I bought and built the motor peice by peice so I never actualy had a dip stick.

Also just another peice of info another HotRodder suggested was that he had seen this issue on new motors like mine to where the crank case built up so much pressure because the rings had not broken in yet and that once they did the CC pressure would stablize\go down some.

Thanks
Wade
 

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I would go to Jegs or somewhere and see if they sell a different dipstick with the higher capacity oil pans. I would not even imagine that a stock dip stick would be accurate at all.....

Good luck and let us know what you find out...

Rd
 

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Just for grins, pull your dipstick and hook a vacuum/pressure gauge on the top of the tube with enough hose you can see it while you're driving. See if it's really getting much pressure at all. No idea what would be normal, but if it's really showing some big numbers, maybe 6-10 psi or above it's possible either your rings haven't seated (How many miles on your rebuild?) or you've got a deeper problem. You may need to run a leak-down check and see if it's one cylinder or what.
 

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I would be scared if he felt any pressure or vacuum out of the dipstick tube...

We are heavy into theory and out of my league here. Identification is the first sign of a cure.....

My opinion is a Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve should vent the crankcase. Oil blowing out of the tube is taking the path of least resistance. Considering the tube is merely pressed into the block on the majority of STOCK motors.......

I respectfully bow to any of the more seasoned veterans who have fought this issue in the past.

I am still interested to see if he goes back to square on if the problem stops.....

Rd
 

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This all brings to mind something stupid from years ago....

SOME engines came with 2piece dipstick tubes, and you say i'ts way over indicating, tha'ts because the tube itself is not having that tighter fitting lower section on it.....i'ts a missing part.....now here is the funny part....on a 350 chebby Mercruiser boat, we had a gross over indication problem with someone's chrome dipstick, we had the requisite 6 quarts oil in place, that we knew damn well.....we shortened and remarked the dipstick.....your 7 qt pan damn well better not raise the oil level under the crank, but just have deeper/wider crapassity....you would not want windage problems, now....

so the problem is pre existing, but made worse by something in the PCV system hookup....

IF we had put the extender tube on that boat, the dipstick handle would be through the roof.....couldn't do THAT.....

there is/was two differant sizes to old Pontiac dipstick tubes....the bottom part, about 5" long was larger to fit the block, and required hammering in place.....the upper portion was smaller......what anyone bet that chrome thing you got was intended for a lower section and maybe even some genius thought it could be universal through the GM lineup...???
I dunno all THAT much about SBC on that dipshit score....BUT, it seems to me, I did see a lower/upper tube on a SBC long tyme ago...

:crazy: :WTF :cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
This is on a BBC with a MOROSO kick out sump and integrated windage trey. I was thinking that maybe I need to tap the tube in the block more till it bottoms out but that would just lower the end of the stick even farther into the hole thus showing an even higher over fill condition. I guess the best course of action is to take things one at a time. First thing is to switch back to the old setup which was the vented aftermarket PCV cap and see if the blow out stops. The reason I changed in the first place was because I had it Bubba'ed in that the tube on the back of the carb is 3/8 and the tube on the cap is 1/2" so I used 2 peices of different sized hose fitted together and then taped with electrical tape. Not exactly pleasing to the eye but at least the thing did not leak.:thud:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
How did it go??????

Rd
Have not had a chance to get back to it. Been doing the family holiday thing and entertaining the kids.:thumbsup: I did get the car up on jack stands and am on vacation next week so I should be able to resolve the issue soon. I will definately update when\if:surprised I get it fixed. Wish me luck.;)

Wade
 
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