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Discussion Starter #1
In working on my LS1 conversion (79 vette), I recently got my drive shaft shortened. As I was installing it, I was rotating the shaft (and rear end) in order to tighten the u-joint clamps.

As I was doing that, suddenly the shaft got a little easier to turn. As I was crawling out from under the car, I noticed the right side stub axle had creeped out about an inch from the normal position.

Obviously, I was pretty bummed about the situation - however, I had the rear end rebuilt several years ago and in reality, the car probably only has a couple thousand miles on it since that rebuild. At that time, we replaced one badly worn stub axle, the other was OK -- so needless to say I was surprised it happened.

Anyhow - I pulled the rear cover off tonight and found that the stub axles appear to me to be in very good condition. It seems the clip just fell off. It was sitting in the bottom of the rear end housing. Grease looked brand new, no debris or shavings at all in the rear.

Any idea what would cause a clip to just fall off after a couple thousand miles and while the car was jacked up? Is it possible it wasn't installed well and made it all this time & finally just fell off with the pressure of not having the support of the car's weight and being turned?

Here's a couple pics of the stub axles for more experienced eyes -- they look good to me, do they look good to you? Anything I should be concerned about or should I just reinstall the clip and continue forward with my conversion?

Left side


Right side (missing clip)
 

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Is the car extra lowered in the rear?

I'm surprised it just fell off, and the end of the yoke isn't all beaten up - usually the yoke end is trashed, but maybe you don't have many miles on it yet.

Maybe GT1999 will jump in with more details - I've seen this before, but as I mentenioned above they are usually beaten to death by the time I've seen them.

This will also cause a vibration as that shaft works out and binds the joints with premature wear of the joints and the yoke and bearings in the carrier and seal.
 

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could be the clip wasn't seated and popped off. Some of the clips sold are thinner as well and I don't use them. The yoke ends look good, you can measure from the end to the snap ring to check, should be in the .180-.187 range. Many state there is a flat edge to the ring ID, but I looked at many and haven't seen too much varience. The sq edge would go against the inner spline to prevent the axle from pulling out.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the responses, guys.

'69 -- no, the car isn't lowered at all. It has the OEM 9 leaf and it's in good condition, here's it's stance:



Gary - thanks for the response. I'll measure, look at the clip and reassemble tonight.
 

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I will add that it is not uncommon to "pop" a clip if you run a Vette jacked up in the air without having the halfshafts and trailing arms in a position close to the actual ride heigth. We use Motorcycle tie downs to pre-load the suspension when breaking in a new differential after a rebuild.
 

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First off, I've never torn into a vet rearend. But I always thought that the OD of the spider pin was suppose to push the axle shafts outward a little so that the clips rode in the recess cut into the face of the spider gear so they could not fall out? Are you sure you the spiders are shimed properly or you dont have an axle bearing problem?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
You're thinking of a more conventional rear end.

If you look at my pics, these are c-clips that have no recess to fit into. In fact, have a look at this recently posted pic from GTR1999 to see the difference


Although 19 years has elapsed since the last rebuild, it's all "brand new" with only a couple thousand miles since the work was done and new parts installed througout.
 

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Bad install

Over the years we have seen a few of these come through the shop. The yoke and snap ring are the last items to be installed before closing the unit up. It looks like posssibly whomever put the snap ring on did not check if the rear side of the ring was installed. It can be missed if someone is not carefull.

www.vtechcorvette.com
 

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VtechCorvette;...The yoke and snap ring are the last items to be installed before closing the unit up....[/QUOTE said:
My bad I thought it was a C-Clip that fell out not a Snap Ring?

C-CLip


Snap RIng


Thought it looked more like this.


So it's more like an E-Clip?


Sorry for the confusion :huh:
 

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Maybe this will help
The stock axles are held in with a snap ring. The originals, as shown here(1972 clip) were 063 thick. I can not see any major difference in the ID of either side, nothing I would say could be put on backwards. I just checked all of these under a 10x scope as well and just couldn't see anything. Some of the snap rings we used rebuilding Bridgeport millingheads did have a slight chamferred edge you can clearly see, I just never saw it on a vette ring.
The current rings (green) are 065 thick and work well. The other one is from a vendor and 058 thick and I didn't care for them. The copper colored one is the c clip for the conventional axles and the 10 & 12 bolt vette HP axle. they have to be machine fit.








Stock ring one side


the other side

 

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Gary, thanks for the lesson. I've been inside a few 10 bolts, 12 bolt and even a few 8-3/4 mopars back in the day(insert thought of old guy sitting on the porch here).

I never would have guessed they'd have use a snap ring in that application. The C-clip recessed into the axle gear held in place by the spider pin seemed pretty solid and simple to me.

Like I said I aint never torn into a vet diff, so thanks for settin me straight :thumbsup:
 

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Glad to help, all the 63-79 vette are like this unless converted to the c clip spiders and axles. I agree, I like the c clips better as well.
 

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gtr1999 what vendor are you with I`m gonna be lookin to change gearing on an 81 & doing my rearsearch now what rear would you suggest for a 425 450 HP 383
 

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test fit the snap ring

If you have or are going to use the original snap ring take the yoke all the way out and test fit the snap ring for tightness. We have seen a few where someone has over "opened" the snap ring causing the steel not to spring back to it original positiion. Some people try to rebend them back but the tensele strength is lost. If you are not sure put in a new one correctly.

Gary V
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gtr1999 what vendor are you with I`m gonna be lookin to change gearing on an 81 & doing my rearsearch now what rear would you suggest for a 425 450 HP 383
I'm not with any vendor, I deal with few of them. I do all my own machine work and setup. I think my level of QC,customer service, and procedures is beyond a lot of what I've seen over the years in this market.

I wouldn't use an 80-82 on much more then a stock engine under 300 hp. Some have used them with 400-450 hp and they have lasted, other broke them with the mild stock engines in normal driving conditons. You can use one, if you do there's only one guy I would use for the 80-82s Mike Dyer. I refer all the 80-82 to him, I personally don't care for those diff's. Mike will fit a steel cap to them to make them stronger.
Me I would use a iron diff, that I built to the requiements of the car. That takes more time and money so you have to be the judge.

As Vtech said, I would use a new snap ring (green one) if you have the yokes out. It's a normal replacement part in my builds.
 

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Gear change

We have a 383 making 490 HP and run 3:55 gears. Very good gear for all around for road racing and auto cross.
We have done dozens of 80 to 82's. Never a return. $625 ea. Call us on gear changes. There is a differance depending whose you use.
Check our website
thanks
Gary v.
www.vtechcorvette.com
 

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gtr1999 what vendor are you with I`m gonna be lookin to change gearing on an 81 & doing my rearsearch now what rear would you suggest for a 425 450 HP 383
It depends on what trans you are using and what cam. Everything has to work together as a complete package. For instance if you had stock heads, a 106 centerline cam, 700R4 trans and a 3.55 gear then OD would be useless below 80 mph.But if you change to an AFR head and a 110 cam then it would work fine. If you are running a T56 6 spd then you need to change to a 4.11 gear.
I guess 80-82 Danas break more in the south than the north. I seen more than my share of broken caps in them. Which is why I designed and manufacture the steel cap for them. I'll put one of my steel cap Danas up against one of GTR's iron diffs anyday. ( Actually I wouldn't because the Dana case isn't as strong as the iron case but I figure Gary will fall out his chair when he reads this.) Seriously though I seen the Danas handle 400hp 4 spds and break with 200hp autos.
Mike D.
 

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Hey Watch it Mike, the last time there was a North - South debate it turned into a real mess!!! but that was long before corvettes were around! We're more civilized now:rolling:

I don't know how many up here are blown up because I just won't work on them. Send it Mike, have him machine a steel cap for it. "Do it right, Do it once!"
 

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LOL!
I thought that statement would get your attention. But to make up for it I'll let you buy me a coke at Carlisle.
Mike
 
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