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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ever since I got the 72, I have wanted to freshen up the suspension and tighten up the car. Other projects always seem to take priority.

First it was the oil pan replacement, then it was the brakes, then it was the transmission, then it was the rear end, then it was the fuel injection.

This year, my winter project has been a complete suspension overhaul

Before:





Last year, I had Gary Ramadei build me a Super 10 rear differential because i broke my axle at the dragstrip.






This year, I sent him my trailing arms for the 31 spline outer axle treatment.





He did his usual amazing job on them.




I also stripped off the front susupension blasted everything, replaced all the war parts, painted and coated it all, and am now reassembling it.






I still have a few more hours of work before I can put the wheels back on, but it sure is nice seeing the suspension back on the car.
 

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Nice job! It looks good. I rebuilt my front this winter, next year I'll go for the rear. I didn't feel like cutting those bolts. Did you have much trouble removing the trailing arms?
 

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Jeff,
Nice job, I like the front rotor treatment, looks very familar!!
What did you end up with on the runout on the front?

I bet the weather your way is nice now too, about 80*? Sure beats the 40's and rain we have now.

Enjoy it:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Jeff,
Nice job, I like the front rotor treatment, looks very familar!!
What did you end up with on the runout on the front?

I bet the weather your way is nice now too, about 80*? Sure beats the 40's and rain we have now.

Enjoy it:thumbsup:
I was so tired Sunday night I didn't even check it. I am going to check it this week and let you know what shims I might need. I hope none are needed.

This baby is gonna be right!!!
 

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Let me know what you need for shims and I'll get them in the mail next day!:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Nice job! It looks good. I rebuilt my front this winter, next year I'll go for the rear. I didn't feel like cutting those bolts. Did you have much trouble removing the trailing arms?
I worked a couple hours a night for 4 nights. It took about 10 blades (titanium tipped) and 13,256 strikes with the sledge happer and chisel. I got he nuts loose, and the kotter pin out, but everything was stuck together. I spent the first 3 days just soaking everything with PB Blaster. With the 3# sledge and chisel, I got the outer shims loose and out, but the inner shims were too rusted to budge. I gave up when I stared digging into the frame with the chisel. The bolts were rusted to the frame, the shims, and the bushing sleeve.

On my last blade, I figured out the right process.

1. Light pressure on the sawzall
2. Stop every 30 seconds or so, pull the saw out and spray some water on the blade to cool it.
3. Put the saw back in teh hole and get right back to sawing.

This cools the blade, but keeps the bolt hot. I cut more with my last blade than I did with any two of the first 9.

At one point, I was using 12" blades, then breaking off the tips after they melted. I could break off 2" each time and get 3 times the use out of one blade.

This is by far the most difficult bolt to remove from a 40 year old car.

You can see in this picture where the chisel started cutting into the frame. That is when I gave up on removing the inner shims and started to just cut the bolt.

 

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Nice Job!...

I have a complete front rebuild on tap in the next few weeks...almost all the parts are in the garage and just got a new sandblaster cabinet (never hurts me to buy a new tool) to help clean parts with. Gonna blast everything and paint with rustoleum - Black (except the springs, gonna go with a gray or aluminum look there) thought about powdercoating but at $30.00 a control arm it seems like alot of money, hoping the paint on fresh metal will be good and I'll always be able to touch it up. Might do red calipers too...

Hopefully this front end project isn't as hard as the rear looks...although laying on the floor doing it isn't gonna be much fun...hope it warms up in Milwaukee soon!

Some day I'll move south so i can work on my cars year round...
 

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Thanks for the tips. I'll attack my rear trailing arms next winter. I have to get my front aligned so hopefully the rear is ok. It seems tight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Buttoned up the front suspension last night about 10:00 PM.



Those poly bushings on teh sway bar are almost impossible to install. They do not compress much at all. I had to install rubber on one side and crank it down to put enough tension on the otherside to compress the busings so I could start the thread on the locknut. I had to leave the very bottom rubber bushing in place at that.

Chances are, I will be blowing it apart to cut the front spring after I get it on the ground. I think it will be too high with the new springs and shocks up front.
 

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Those poly bushings on teh sway bar are almost impossible to install.
would it have been easier with the car on the ground so the control arms weren't drooped as low?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Crap!!!

Dropped the car off at the alignment shop last night. The guy called me today and said the new ball joints I put in the lower control arms were no good.:WTF

I ordered a couple MOOG ball joints today and will be taking care of that issue tonight.

I am contemplating whether or not to go ahead and replace the new upper ball joints while I am at it.

I don't recall where I got the front suspension kit from, but I made sure it was USA made before I ordered it. I wonder if there is a small town in China, named USA...
 

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Dropped the car off at the alignment shop last night. The guy called me today and said the new ball joints I put in the lower control arms were no good.:WTF

I ordered a couple MOOG ball joints today and will be taking care of that issue tonight.

I am contemplating whether or not to go ahead and replace the new upper ball joints while I am at it.

I don't recall where I got the front suspension kit from, but I made sure it was USA made before I ordered it. I wonder if there is a small town in China, named USA...
Interesting, but at least you know now instead of trying to chase it down later. Can you share where you got the ball joints from when you figure it out? Thanks!
 

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How did your car drive to the alignment shop? I did my front end over the winter and it tracks straight but seems very unstable. I've only driven it a couple of miles, waiting for good weather to go to the alignment shop.
 

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Jeff,
Sorry to hear about the lower joints. For those wondering how this could be, just go back a few years here and see about all the problems people had with those $200 kits sold by many. They are mostly chinese parts and the lower joints were wearing out in 1000 miles. I had one of those kits here and once I took a good look at it wouldn't use it. The supplier woudn't take it back. MOOG joints are the best out there and will cost you about $400-$450 to get all the parts. No one I know of sells the true USA Moog parts in kit form. Some claim to, saying they're just reboxed but take a good look at both the USA and white box parts and you'll see the difference.
I buy them from Rock Auto since all the parts stores in my area sell imported joints under various names. Who knows how long MOOG USA joints will be available, kind of like the GM Rag joints. If you plan on keeping your car buy them now. Too late on the GM rags, they're already changed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Mine was one of those $200 kits. I don't think they are any different. Most all of them come from one place. The kit looked impressive. It had everything, even the idler arm and new rivets for the ball joints (like I am going to rivet on a new ball joint).

I called the local CarQuest store, and they had the MOOG parts in a couple hours. $41 each for the lower ball joints and $71 each for the upper.

Roger said the upper were fine, but now I don't trust them. $150 extra dollars and a few hours more of work is worth the peace of mine at 150 miles per hour on Talladega Superspeedway.

The car was extremely darty and loose. I thought the steering box was the issue, but it was the ball joints and the front toe was off a bit.

Roger put the car on the lift and there was 1/4" travel in the lower ball joints, right out of the box! I was kinda embarrassed, because I did not even check it when I put her back together. It's funny, I use a dial caliper to check the run-out on my rotors, but don't even bother with checking the ball joints.
 

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You shouldn't have to check new parts, but that's just not the case. The parts that bothers me is when someone calls a suppliers about this they get the standard answer of " we never heard of this before" Greed does strange things to people. Glad you found them locally. When I worked in a parts store we stocked MOOG, DELCO,STANDARD IGN, etc all very good brands once made here. Now that store is gone and the parts are what you see in chain stores.
 

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Forgive my ignorance, but how can you tell a good, USA ball joint in the box without having the chinese one to compare to? I believe the local parts store sells USA (at least so it says on the box) and would like to see if it's junk. TIA...
 
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