SYS Light Flashing

do you know how to pull hte codes for the sys.

you need a paper clip, open it and stick it in the DLC (data link cable) port,
at terminal 4 &12.

looking at the DLC from top , left is 1 throught right top is 8.
then left down is 9 through right down is 16.

then, ignition on engine off. and watch the speedmeter monitor.

record the codes, and post them, you dont have to do any thing to pull the codes, the auto diagnostic mode will cycle through the different modules, and it will stop when it finish.

good luck.....

I pulled the following codes this morning ...

H31, H33, H35, & H37 - all from Module 1

There are no current codes.

How long before these codes go away? 100 starts?

I also took the car to Autozone, where they tested the battery. That test came back indeterminant. At the end of the test, the machine said to recharge the battery and repeat the test. That would seem to point toward a battery that is getting ready to fail.

Steven

Afternoon update ...

Had to move car out of the garage to finish up my insulation project. It started slowly. When I moved it back into the garage, it started slowly.

I concluded that I needed to remove the battery for further testing (although it was looking more and more likely that the battery was the culprit).

When I attempted to remove the postive cable, the battery post came with it - and not a lot of force to do it, either!

So, I have concluded that the battery is the likely problem, and went to Autozone to get a replacement. When the temp drops a bit more, I'll get back out there and see if I can get it all buttoned up.

Steven

Evening update ...

New battery installed.

Lessons learned ...

1. I bought new terminal bolts to replace the one for the positive side (very corroded). Did you know that the positive termonal bolt is LONGER than the negative terminal bolt? I didn't, and spent a good bit of time trying to get the short negative bolt into the terminal on the battery. Just on a whim, I checked the other one to see if it would screw into the battery, and then I thought maybe they are different - and they are!!! Once I made the swap, the positive cable hooked right up.

2. Once you have the right bolt for the positive cable, it is much easier to get it started if the battery is only partially set in the battery box. The first time I tried this, I had installed the hold down bracket, and I couldn't get my fat fingers into the small space provided near the positive terminal.

3. Clay bar works really well on the inner fender, and a couple of other places around that bettery. I'm not much of the detailer kind of Corvette owner, but I spent some time cleaning up a little while I had it apart. The clay and detail spray left a nice factory looking finish without a lot of work on my part (very important to me!).

Once I got everything buttoned up, I climbed in and she fired right up. No SYS flashing its nastiness. I set the clock, enjoyed the AC for a few minutes, shut it down, and restarted it. No problems.

I'm declaring this one solved - unless someone else has any suggestions about those history codes I found this morning.

Steven

31: LCD Data circuit shorted to B+ or CCM internal open.
33: data clock circuit shorted to B+ or CCM internal open.
35: data strobe ciruit shorted to B+ 0r CCM intrnal open.
37: M Clock circuit shorted to B+ or CCM internal open.


you can erease the history codes easly...

just enter the diagnosic mode as if you want to pull some codes.
once you are there, press "trip/ODO" button on the DIC until 1.7 appears on the trip monitor.

then press and hold "ENG/MET" button until "__" appears.

turn the egnition off, then on again to confirm there is no codes.

if you see " C12" thats ok it means there is no codes stored in module 1.

good luck...:thumbsup: