Corvette Forum : DigitalCorvettes.com Corvette Forums banner

1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
550 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
:devil:

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
296 Posts
Looks pretty cool. What's holding the inner yoke in the pig? C-clip?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
550 Posts
Discussion Starter #3

·
Banned
Joined
·
1,873 Posts
No paint? That's gonna rust in no time.

Still needs me a set of those also :0
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,855 Posts
OK, gotta ask, what does this buy you beyond the stock setup without the C clip holding the yokes?? all I see is elimination of one set of universals??
is it a CV joint inside near the diffy???

I understand the 6 link ok, I suppose that's what you are doing there....

the only thing I can think of would involve the olde tyme early 70's caddy eldorado CV joints from the 500 inch engine....those could hold a dump truck...
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
1,873 Posts
It allows free movement of the trailing arm and camber and toe control w/ only the 6 link rods. If you use the stock arm you have to float the stub axle by removing the c clip. You do not eliminate universals, it has 1350s at both ends but a spined telescpic section in the middle that allows the shaft to extend. These same types of shafts were used on vipers and panteras and many other cars (also on that nice red greenwood racecar in another topic)

What this gives you over floating the stub axle is less possible wear there AND not having to stick to the stock geometry to keep stub axle movement to a minimum.

I will need those puppies for my double a arm irs. I mentioned those quite a few times on CF back when there were stil interesting topics going on there :D
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,855 Posts
It allows free movement of the trailing arm and camber and toe control w/ only the 6 link rods. If you use the stock arm you have to float the stub axle by removing the c clip. You do not eliminate universals, it has 1350s at both ends but a spined telescpic section in the middle that allows the shaft to extend. These same types of shafts were used on vipers and panteras and many other cars (also on that nice red greenwood racecar in another topic)

What this gives you over floating the stub axle is less possible wear there AND not having to stick to the stock geometry to keep stub axle movement to a minimum.

I will need those puppies for my double a arm irs. I mentioned those quite a few times on CF back when there were stil interesting topics going on there :D

TT, I don't unnersand summfin......ok we got the upper/lower links to the frame going forward....eliminated toe stear...so we have the upper/lower links to the top/bottom controlling lateral....as long as everybody is adjustable...

where are the other links to make 6?? we got fore/aft with the top/bottom going to the frame, we got lateral with top bottom going to the diffy fixed to the frame....or the frame itself, essentially...so??
given that, I can't see what this assy brings that the stock shafts without C clips can't??....the in/out movement on that side gear all THAT great?? I would not think so....??
I remember working on a ZR1 some years ago doing the worn rear bearings/suspension, the works....but too long ago since then....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,366 Posts
Luckily one of my dad's friends is the manager at fleet pride. He should be able to hook me up with them pretty cheap if I ever get some 6 link stuff.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,196 Posts
A six link doesn't control toe. It only controls camber and eliminates the 1/2 shafts as part of the suspension.
Toe change is quit bad with the 6 link.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,366 Posts
I know that but it still is a bit better than stock. Theres not really anyway to control toe is there with out doing something like TT
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
1,873 Posts
a simple 5 bar will control toe..just float the front bushing (johnny joint rec!) ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
588 Posts
No paint? That's gonna rust in no time.

Still needs me a set of those also :0
TT - i'm not so sure that those teli half shafts are required. I was looking under some Road racing Vettes just a couple of weeks ago because I want to do a rear end cooler and air to the brakes.

With a multi link trailing arm setup and limiting vertical wheel travel with stiff springs the yoke splines give the half shafts some lateral movement. You just don't see the more expensive teli half shaft even on the Jag. rearends. It is alot more weight and I would like to see how much the shaft travel really is

I like that tube stub under the rear as a quick jacking point - nice touch!

 

·
Banned
Joined
·
1,873 Posts
Where do you see a 6 link? It has only lower camber struts and trailing arms w/ halfshafts. You do not need the tele shafts if you float the stub axle.

That is a nice jacking point but you'd better have a HD cover if you don't want to snap off the spring pad. I have a jacking plate under my diff as well, easiest place to jack the rear and keep it level.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,855 Posts
Where do you see a 6 link? It has only lower camber struts and trailing arms w/ halfshafts. You do not need the tele shafts if you float the stub axle.

That is a nice jacking point but you'd better have a HD cover if you don't want to snap off the spring pad. I have a jacking plate under my diff as well, easiest place to jack the rear and keep it level.
I dunno about your gear there, but here I just put a couple of 2x4s cut about 3" long so the pad is wooden....1.5-3" deep, depending...and 3.5 " wide and 3" long....in the center of my Sears floor jack cup....and up it/they go between my exhaust pipes....sorta like sex, you know...and so it's square on the bottom of the diffy, pretty much....SO FAR I have no issues,. especially since I have wood under there to take out any metal breakages....hopefully forever....

anyway, I typically use jack stand...'thank you China' under the frame after that.....but sometimes I get lazy....yet another way to loose weight...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
959 Posts
TT - i'm not so sure that those teli half shafts are required. I was looking under some Road racing Vettes just a couple of weeks ago because I want to do a rear end cooler and air to the brakes.

With a multi link trailing arm setup and limiting vertical wheel travel with stiff springs the yoke splines give the half shafts some lateral movement. You just don't see the more expensive teli half shaft even on the Jag. rearends. It is alot more weight and I would like to see how much the shaft travel really is

I like that tube stub under the rear as a quick jacking point - nice touch!

George, before you add a diff cooler...read the Chevy power book...this guys "return" is on the wrong side.......and his "pickup" should be in the cover also...just lower.
.......redvetracr

PS: that car is so high in the air I could almost drive mine under it.....:devil:
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
1,873 Posts
Is there something about rear coolers in the manual? ideally the return to the diff should be above where the pinion and ring gear mesh to get as much direct lubrication there as possible. I have an oil cooler on my diff, it takes oil from the bottom but not the very bottom as to maintain a level in there for splash oiling and the return is, as I said, above the pinion gear. The one in the pic is just spraying oil against the posi case, there's no incraesed ring/pinion lubrication over a stock system w/ just a fluid level, just added cooling. His pickup point is right where I drill and tap for a drain plug. Kinda scary, if you hit some road debris that return is a goner and the diff will be empty. Also, all the trash wil go straight into the return, even if you use a filter it will clog up, and trash you will collect from the clutches and all. Better to have the return a little higher on the rear cover, the fluid level moves there anyway w/ the ring gear rotating the way it is and the car moving.

Gene, I just push my trolley jack under the back and make sure the cup goes under the jacking plate, I can then jack it up so both wheels are off the ground and it's steady as a rock.


How serious a race car was that? It has 2,5" halfshafts and u bolts, not heavy duty stuff at all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
588 Posts
George, before you add a diff cooler...read the Chevy power book...this guys "return" is on the wrong side.......and his "pickup" should be in the cover also...just lower.
.......redvetracr

PS: that car is so high in the air I could almost drive mine under it.....:devil:
That might be why Vic's car is a mid pack finisher!:laughing:

It does have a small air box and pusher fan. Also up forward is the manual tranny cooler

It pulls the oil off the bottom and through the SS hose through the hole in the smart strut. The brass looking thing is actually an inline electric low volume pump. Then through the cooler and back in the top of the rear diff. cover.

You are right! this setup would be oiling the posi unit
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
550 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
George, before you add a diff cooler...read the Chevy power book...this guys "return" is on the wrong side.......and his "pickup" should be in the cover also...just lower.
.......redvetracr

PS: that car is so high in the air I could almost drive mine under it.....:devil:
:agree: :agree: with the ride height...

the shafts should be nearly parallel to the ground...
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
Top