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Discussion Starter #201 (Edited)
My car in 1982

Even though I have owned my 66 Corvette for 45 years, the only pictures I have of it prior to 2010 are my Wedding Day pictures taken in 1982.

I had just restored it for the second time. It only had 175,000 miles on it at the time.

The last picture is how it looks today after a 2010 restoration, with 300,000 miles on the original engine and drive train.

1982







My other true love



Driving off on Honeymoon


The car today with 300,000 miles on it

 

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Great pics Jack, did she marry you for your car or because you're just such a handsome devil?:laughing:
 

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Discussion Starter #204
Corvette Vagabond gets his hands dirty ! The underbelly of Corvette ownership

How to remove and install a haft shaft with new u joints on your back.


When you hear the squeak, then the clank, its time to replace a u-joint. I drove most of the summer, hoping my haft shaft would not be sitting next to me . So it was time for a repair.

Not having a lift was a small problem, because you can not get leverage on the torque wench to break the flange bolts. It will hit the floor. I had to turn the wheel a bit then pull.

The time to do the job was about 2 hours. Not counting the local shop that pressed in the u -Joints for a few dollars. The joints cost about $25 more less a piece. They may have had on them 30 or 40 thousand miles on them since 2011.

First Take Off Spare Tire Carrier



Not a lot of room



Put car up on Jack Stands and then Jack below wheel, used to lift & lower wheel to release haft shaft from flanges on rear and hub.



Tools ready, 5/8 and 9/6 wrench and socket for outer and inner bolts and nuts. Torque wrench 75 & 65 Ft lbs. I had a cheap one that only goes to 75.



The problem is height of wheel off floor. My wrench would hit floor , so I would have to turn wheel for each little turn. Notice the leg work.





Haft Shaft Back from shop with U joints inserted.



Installing shaft, I used jack to raise wheel to bring haft shaft up and lock in u-joints in flanges. You do not need to loose any cams nuts for rear alignment shafts. Everything goes right back into place.



Job done ! It took me about 30 minutes to remove shaft. Much faster if you had a lift. Took car out and ran it up to 100 + mph and the haft shaft was not sitting next to me. Must have done it correctly.

You have too, you can do it. Total cost about $60 including pressing in joints.

 

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Discussion Starter #205
Tell me it's a good thing to have gray metal flake in your gear oil

Hello out there in Corvette land...

Time for maintenance on my car after puting 60,000 miles on it in the last 4 years.

About 250-300 k miles on car and rear end.

Did not take good car of it for 40 years, but have drained and cleaned and new fluids etc . preparing it for my travels.

I have been having vibrations and did replace u joints on half-shaft last month on pass. side.

Noticed some vibration....could it be the mechanic who did the work (me)...

So car really make a noise (pop) after a few weeks of driving...noticed a really thump ,

Tonight have car up on jacks, turn wheels and hear crackling sound as I rotate wheel. Can't be good ...

I drain rear and as I look at fluid from my hose it looks like gray metal fake in the gear oil

So...what 's the story....I was going to fill it and see what happens...but will wait for your opinions..

Jack
 

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Jack, as much as you drive that beauty I'm afraid that you're going to have to find the source of the metalflake gear oil. I'm quite certain Quaker State didn't make it that way. It's probably going to be metallic and more than likely it'll have something to do with the spider gears. Wait for Brian to chime in. He really builds a mean differential. There are others on this site that do builds as well but I have no first hand knowledge of their work.

Unless you have a bag of microwave popcorn in the garage oven I'd also say that the popping noise is a real issue. Usually a jerk and pop means that metal may be getting between the ring and pinion and the two gears are making a blender for metal. That's not good either.

Whatever your choice you're going to need to separate the diff and find the problem. I'm pretty sure that it will fail between point "A" and point "B" on your next road trip. If you can find Bumfuk, Egypt on the map that's where the failure will occur. Mr. Murphy (Murphy's Law Fame) said so and it must be true. Good luck with the repairs and Merry Christmas.
 

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Discussion Starter #207
Jack, as much as you drive that beauty I'm afraid that you're going to have to find the source of the metalflake gear oil. I'm quite certain Quaker State didn't make it that way. It's probably going to be metallic and more than likely it'll have something to do with the spider gears. Wait for Brian to chime in. He really builds a mean differential. There are others on this site that do builds as well but I have no first hand knowledge of their work.

Unless you have a bag of microwave popcorn in the garage oven I'd also say that the popping noise is a real issue. Usually a jerk and pop means that metal may be getting between the ring and pinion and the two gears are making a blender for metal. That's not good either.

Whatever your choice you're going to need to separate the diff and find the problem. I'm pretty sure that it will fail between point "A" and point "B" on your next road trip. If you can find Bumfuk, Egypt on the map that's where the failure will occur. Mr. Murphy (Murphy's Law Fame) said so and it must be true. Good luck with the repairs and Merry Christmas.
Hi, I ran out to the garage this morning and did the magnet trick. None of the oil stuck to the magnet. All dripped off. So the perceived metal flake must be the oil/additive break down.

The silver appearing particles are very very very small and all are the same size.

I will refill rear with new gear oil and additive and see what happens. The rear is 300,000 miles old without a rebuild. It is a 3.70 , I put it in the car in 1970. Thought it was a 3,36 and only found out in 2010 that it was a 3.70 when preparing car for 48 state trip.

That was in the days when you could go to a junk yard, find a corvette wreck , bring a wrench and take out any part you wanted. I picked a 68 and with a few wrenches, and took out the rear, because I thought mine was bad. Probably was a lose u joint. But at 22 or 23 , I was not a very good mechanic .

No wonder the car would fly through the gears with my M-20 wide ratio tranny. It would ran out of rpms at 110 to 120 mph .

Jack
 

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Discussion Starter #208
update rear locked up...

Hi, took my son for little ride in car to feel thump in rear or drive train. Let him drive down driveway, he goosed the gas , bad idea ...

Something let go in drive train. Stopped car, no drive shafts hanging, but...

Car will only go forward or backward one revolution of wheel then stops. It will do it in all 4 gears forward and reverse.

Called flatbed, to get car back to my garage.

It seems that the rear let go....

I get the car up on jack stands.... time for rear end removal/ strut rods bushing, body mounts, tranny removal, and if possible crossmember , later after rear removal..plus a lot of stuff that is showing wear after 60,000 miles in the last three years.

I will ask for help after the weekend , just to make sure I take it apart in the right order....

It will be a real job to do on jack stands....I may offer some Lobsters for lunch as a reward for coming up to Maine to get the tranny off my chest or to help pry the crossmember off the frame...

Pictures later.....Son leaving Sunday, for new job in Seattle at Amazon as a robotics engineer...

Thanks in advance for you kindness and understanding , and supporting me as I cry under the car.......should be quite interesting...

Jack
 

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Discussion Starter #209
As the Prophets said in Halo , " It is time to begin the Great Journey"

Hi to all my wonderful friends out there in Corvette Land

I would love to have some one do the repairs, but I thought this would be a good time to have all the forum members come along for the ride. A lift would make it much easier, but that is not going to happen.

Today I turn the heat on in the garage, set the stage for major surgery, take photos for the before and as I do each step.

If I get into trouble , I will call for help, mostly , it is good to have an extra set of hands, if not just to drag me out from under the car.

It will also be a testament to modern Human Replacement Parts.

I have both hips and knees that have new joints, both wrists and ankles have been worked on and lets not even talk about my shoulders.

If I can drive Thousands of miles, fix my car, go to the gym, then so can many of you out there who may be putting off such work.

Give yourself a life.....if you need it, get it done...

Pictures to follow later today ....waiting for the garage to warm up..

Jack
 

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Discussion Starter #210
Day 1 of the Great Journey

So it begins...Day 1

I started today working on the car. Turned on heater in garage, keeps it about 50* if outside is below 32* and warmer if above.

First goal was to jack up car to view damage if possible

Next remove mufflers
Next to remove half shafts

Time 3 hours . One problem was not being able to rotate wheels more than 1 / 4 turn. That made unbolting haft shafts difficult because of small turns of wrench at odd angles on u-joint nuts.

There is little doubt that my rear end is dead.....

Now what to do next. Carrier bolts from cross member will never come out. It will be very difficult to unbolt the rear from carrier as there is no room to get at top bolts.

My sombreros are shot (48 years old) the only way I will get the rear out of the car is to take off the cross member with the rear end.

All the components (Strut rods bushing shot) , springs, drive shaft, have to be take off to drop the rear.

I am on my back doing this. Any suggestion on my next days work will be welcome. I am soaking all in penetrating oil .

Here some pictures of today's work

Car is ready



Getting ready



Up it goes and I hope not down on me



Stable I hope



Wheels off for room, but had to put them back on to rotate wheel



Haft Shafts Off ...one little turn at a time because or lock up of rear



This is the view - what to take off first ?



End of the day

 

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Discussion Starter #211
Day2 of the Great Journey Pictures Update

Day 2

Hello and good Evening to all. 8:30 pm

I put in 3 1/2 hours or work today and quit around 2:30 pm . I had to stop because of lack of a shock knocker, ( found one tonight) and it was time to stand up.

Goals for today:

Take off rear spring without killing myself
Take off Strut bracket and rods ,
Need shock knocker to remove strut rod from spindle arm
and bracket

I was able to remove rear spring using a simple method of two jacks, one to hold trailing arm and one to compress spring in order to release tension on bolts.

I was also able to remove strut bracket , but had to leave in place until I can remove rods from spindle with shock knocker.

Once strut bracket is removed, I will remove snubber bushing , disconnect drive shaft and make decision on cross member removal/carrier removal to take out rear.

Here are the pictures

Support of spring / TA , jack is holding up shock mount not rotor



Unbolting nut by compressing spring with jack



Lower spring jack and down comes spring freeing bolt



Bolt free of spring and can now be pushed up and out



Spring can now be unbolted from carrier



Spring can now be removed



Shocks are freed from spindle , but left bolted on top



Rear End now free , ready for next days work , once strut bracket is removed when rods are free of shock mounts.



Parts on the floor, good 2 days work (7 hours slow me ) without any broken bolts !

 

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Discussion Starter #212
Day 3 of the Great Journey Happy New Years 2015

Day 3 "The Great Journey moving along"

Happy New Year to one and all !

Garage on got to 48* today, not bad, since it was 18* when I turned the heat on. Started at 4 PM , lots of other errands to do.

Stopped at 6 pm about 2 hours work today. After all it is NYE.

Today the goal was to remove the strut rod bracket intact. The rods are attached to the TA and the strut mount must be knocked out of the TA in order to release rod from spindle assembly.

I had also hoped to remove the snub bushing which would have allowed me to disconnect the drive shaft. That was not to happen , ran out of time and I could not figure out how to attach a wrench to the bolt that hold the snub bushing, The nut is easy to get to, but without locking the top of bolt , it will just spin.

I will just crack nut or cut it of and pull down snub bracket. Disconnect drive shaft and then the FUN Begins. See that Crow Bar, Soon we do the " Sombrero Dance"

Cheers Jack

We may need this soon !



Home made "Shock Knocker "



Punch to finish job after heat and a few hard whacks with a hammer



Rod now free of spindle assembly



High Tech Tools Shock Mount is out and looks a little bent after 48 years




Strut Bracket Intact and free of rear and spindle



Day 3 Parts Collection



The "Sombrero Dance " Tomorrow if I can move....

 

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Discussion Starter #213
Day 4 of the Great Journey Happy New Years 2015

Thank you, John and Happy New Years

Day 4 11:15 am New Years Day

The "Sombrero Dance " Today ...I hope the nuts turn ! I read the article , my pry bar is not Super Charged as in the article....lol

http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/tech_info/body_&_frame/SombreroDance.pdf




I will be back with update & pictures in a few hours :cheers:

Jack
 

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Discussion Starter #214
Day 4 of the Great Journey Happy New Years 2015

Day 4 of " The Great Journey " Rear End / Sombrero Removal

Happy New Years to All :woohoo:

Today's Goal was to finish the job of removing the rear end from the car. 2 hours time 1 hour work 1 hour crawl time ...lol

I needed to remove the cross member which requires the removal of the Sombrero Bushings / Nuts the hold cross member to frame. After 48 years of driving in the North East on salted roads and 300,000 miles , you would think all the nuts, bolts and rust would cause a great deal of problems.

Well , not one bolt or nut broke so far. The cross member to my disappointment , did not pop off. The bolts came right out

( I left them in when prying)

The cross member just came off with gentle pressure of the pry bar.

The most difficult part was getting the u-joint nuts off . The rear is locked up and you can not rotate the drive shaft. After dropping the rear down with cross member , I was able to do each nut .

The snuber bracket bushing was difficult because it is hard to put a wrench on the top bolt while you undo the bottom nut.

Tomorrow I will take the rear off the carrier and see what is left of the insides....

The job took 2 hours today 1 hour of work and 1 hour of crawl time on my back. It has taken me about 10-12 hours to get to this stage .

With a lift that time would be about 3-4 hours . Stay tuned for the opening of the rear tomorrow !

What I would like to be able to do later



Gentle prying , cross member came right off - bolts came right out



Cross member now free - both sides came off - no problems



Rear supported by jack as work on drive shaft u-joints



Rear End / Cross member now free of car in dolly



Sombreros after 48 years !





Rear End at Rest



Day 4 Parts Collection

 

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Discussion Starter #215 (Edited)
Day 5 of the Great Journey

Day 5 " The Great Journey " Oh my God ! Look at that !

Goals for today : Remove rear from cross-member and open rear end to see what happen to it.

A lesson to be learned. I have been driving this car for almost 300,000 miles in the North East and just about everywhere else. Winter and Summer , salt and rain. And not one bolt was rusted in or broke trying to take it out.

It is sitting for years that rust these cars. Cars that are driven may get surface rust, but it seems the heat and oil must perserve the parts in some way. Sure , they wear out, but I never thought in a million years that the bolts would come out of the rear carrier. But I used a little heat and also used a bolt-out socket by Irwin Tools. It cuts into bolt or nut will take out rounded parts.

I thought it best to use it first before a regular socket. I big breaker bar and very slow turning and out came all the bolts on the cross-member and rear carrier.

Once the cover was off, it was very apparent what happen as you can see. The drive pinion gear was able to move backward into the Posi unit. The ring gear looks OK ....Posi not so good....

Comments are welcome. Any 3:36 posi rears not being used ?

Heating up the cross member bolts. I used a big breaker bar and Irwin Socket (nut / bolt extractor socket) first before I even tried a regular socket



Bolts that I though would never come out , came out



Cover ready to be taken off , what will we find ?



Not very pretty







Day 5 Parts Collection

 

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Discussion Starter #217
Day 6 of the Great Journey

Hello, Bonjour, and Good Afternoon,

Day 6 I thought you would be tired of looking at my car's rear end.

Picture taken in Nice, France on Corvette Vagabond 's European Tour.
Well I found the problem. Failed bearing of pinion gear or Posi Unit its self. The pinion gear was able to move forward hitting Posi causing damage and pieces breaking off.

The fact that I was only going 10 mph saved my car from extensive damage had it let go at 70 mph. Nothing left to do but replace the unit. I will be looking to put a 3:36 in instead of the current 3:70 which is more inline with my high speed driving on highways in the US and Europe.

Thanks for coming along. I will keep you posted on further work on car as I put it back together.

If you would like to see more photos , please like the https://www.facebook.com/CorvetteVagabond page and enjoy or

https://www.corvettevagabond.com for many stories and car collections.

New Units



Table



Patient



Taking out bolts caps off but that will not help take out Posi




Pieces of Posi







Time to replace the unit, here is bearing difficult to see but a mess

 

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Discussion Starter #218
As the Bounty Hunter Mercenary said in "Chronicles of Ridic "

I should have listen an "Taken the Money"

I should have listen and taken out the rear ...sooner......:cheers:

Jack
 

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Discussion Starter #219
Looking for a replacement Rear End

Hello, Bonjour, and Good Afternoon,


Thanks for coming along. I will keep you posted on further work on car as I put it back together.

Talked with Gary Ramadie, looks like I need a donor rear end.

If you have and don't need that rear end that is in the corner of the garage , send me a PM

Any GM / Corvette rear 71-79 3:08 to 3:70 ratio in OK to Good shape.

Thanks

Jack

If you would like to see more photos , please like the https://www.facebook.com/CorvetteVagabond page and enjoy or

https://www.corvettevagabond.com for many stories and car collections.

New Units

 

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Discussion Starter #220
Two different strut rods!

Guess what? Last night I went out to garage to take a look at the struts, and what do I see? The bent one is 1 1/4 & the straight one is 1 3/8

Now it all comes back to me, in 1971 I had the rear changed, the mechanic must have broken the original rod and put in the later design.

Should I replace the old bent original with the later one (stronger ?)
For a matched pair?

Or just order a new correct rod with bushings installed and put bushings in old correct rod that has the right camber setting with the bend.

Gary Ramadei is working on finding and building me a rear end. We may use some of my old parts, the more I look at 3:08 and 3:36 the more I like my 3:70. I only go above 110 mph on the highways......

Jack


Strut Bracket Intact and free of rear and spindle

 
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