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i did top dead center on crank thoght i was on compression stroke... cam dowell was at 9o'clock put on timing set.... now at top dead center my dist. is at #3 or # 6 (thought i might have hit intake stroke instead of compression. has anyone had experience with this? i'm about to tear it back down and re-do timing chain because i am only adding to the confusion here! any help is greatly appreciated:WTF sorry this is a c4 i hit the wrong post section........ things aren't quite happening here
 

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i never install a timing chain without ''degreeing in'' the cam, but since you're new at engine surgery the basic ''line up the dots'' should get you doing.

both upper gear(cam sprocket) and lower gear (crankshaft sprocket) have ''dimples'' on them for ''normal'' mechanics to use to set cam timing...forget where the piston is in travels...put a straightedge across the CENTERS of the ends of the cam and the crank, then adjust the sprockets by turning the cam and crank until the ''dimples'' and cam/crank ''centers'' all line up under the straight edge (dimples between the cam and crank)...most shops that do ''daily driver'' engines will use this method.
 

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i never install a timing chain without ''degreeing in'' the cam, but since you're new at engine surgery the basic ''line up the dots'' should get you doing.

both upper gear(cam sprocket) and lower gear (crankshaft sprocket) have ''dimples'' on them for ''normal'' mechanics to use to set cam timing...forget where the piston is in travels...put a straightedge across the CENTERS of the ends of the cam and the crank, then adjust the sprockets by turning the cam and crank until the ''dimples'' and cam/crank ''centers'' all line up under the straight edge (dimples between the cam and crank)...most shops that do ''daily driver'' engines will use this method.
At that point, you can eyeball #1 on your distributor, and you're almost ready to drop it back in the engine. Look at the position of the oil pump slot on the bottom of the distributor, and then use a long flat blade screwdriver to get the oil pump drive shaft approximately in that position. That way, when you drop the distributor back in the engine, it will actually drop all the way and engage both the camshaft and the oil pump drive. Otherwise, it'll drive you crazy.

Don't forget that the distributor shaft will rotate some as it engages the camshaft (and right now I don't remember which way it goes). Thus, you may have to try this a couple of times before you get it right.

Steven
 

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holy crap did my distributer ever give me a problem going back in. it took me all of about 2 hours to get it to slide in and hook up with the oil pump shaft, and be set at the right piston firing spot.
 

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done hundreds (thousands maybe) of em...never even worry about it, just drop the dizzy in, with rotor pointed about where i want it...most times the dizzy does not drop that last 1/4'' inch (to engage oil pump drive), so before hooking any wires or dizzy cap on, i hit the starter and crank the engine over 1 or two revolutions at most, dizzy will drop to home position...''bump'' engine over until timing line on balancer is under ''0'' on tab and dizzy rotor is now at cyl #1 OR #6, pull #1 spark plug and put thumb over the plug hole to feel compression while helper cranks engine if not sure which.

when engine first starts up, you can ''rough'' set timing by ''ear''...rotate dizzy to ''advance'' and ''retard'' timing, you will hear slight, but definite, change of internal ''rumble'' as you move timing from advanced to retarded...stop advancing timing just as tone ''quiets'' a tiny bit = just before top dead center...immediately turn engine ''off'', this is only ''rough'' setting, MUST get a ''timing light'' on asap, before ANY operation under load, to accurately set spark timing
 

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The CLOYES true roller style is vastly superior to the stock parts




how come its 180 degs out of phase?
I get this question all the time, well here’s something I see lots of guys don’t understand, ONCE YOUVE INSTALLED A CAM WITH THE TIMEING MARKS YOU MUST ROTATE THE CRANK 360 DEGRESS BEFORE DROPPING IN THE DISTRIBUTOR, while its true that if the, timing marks are positioned so the crank is at 12 o,clock and the cam gear is at 6 o,clock that the cam lobes will be in the position that fires #6 cylinder that HAS NO EFFECT AT ALL (on finding TDC,) for aligning the degree wheel with TDC,or THE timing tab pointer, for degreeing in the cam, the piston passes thru TDC TWICE in every firing cycle once on the firing/power stroke and once on the exhaust stroke, the cam rotates at exactly 1/2 the speed of the crank so to make it easy to line up the marks they install it with the marks at the closest point 6/12 for easy indexing, rotate the engine 360 degrees to the #1 TDC power stroke and the crank gear will still be at 12 oclock 12/12 but the cam will be at 12 o,clock also, rotate another 360 degrees and your back where you started. its simply easier to index the cam at the point where the index marks align closely. look at how the cam lobes themselves open the valves when the cam is just installed the #1 cylinder valves are slightly open and the #6 are closed per "Lunati" ‘’YES YOU ARE RIGHT - WHEN CRANK IS AT TWELVE AND CAM IS AT SIX THEN #6 CYL IS FIRING AFTER YOU LINE UP YOUR MARKS AND INSTALL GEAR THEN ROTATE YOUR CRANK ONE REVOLUTION AND THEN DROP THE DIST. IN - AT THAT POINT
 
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