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Discussion Starter #1
I have posted on this before as have alot of other people. I have tested and retested the difference over and over again as well. Sometimes I even change in or out daily just so I could compare.
I run dual manual control 16 inch fans, a high volumn water pump and an aluminum rad.
What I found is that with a 180 thermostat in the car it runs about 190 and requires me to run a fan all the time. I run one fan on the open road but as I approach town or home I need to run both fans and the temp will creep to 200 and the oil temp also creeps to about 200.

Without a thermostat the motor seems to settle at 193 on the open road, no fans on, nothing but open road. If I turn on one fan the temp drops to 180 and if I kick in the second fan it drops in the 175 range.
While cruising I let is climb to this 193 but if I see something comming up fast from behind I kick in one fan and within a mile the temp drops to the 180, I want the block a little cooler to prevent detonation if I lean into the blower and under harder conditions I keep both on and drop into this 175 range.
I run without a fan most of the time but when I approach home or a show or anyplace I am going to shut down I turn on both fans about a mile from the shutoff point and end up in the 175 range for the shut down so the motor isn't heat soaked as bad. I also find the oil temperature is about 170 most of the time and never approaches the 200 I get with a thermostat.

These are NOT theroetical temperature, these are temps I have monitored time and again. I control the temp from 175,180 or 193, I have options without the thermostat. It also keeps the oil cooler.
With a thermostat I am stuck at 190 or better with hotter oil, oil that approaches 200 or slightly better.

Anyone who says a thermostat needs to be in there to slow the water flow down and promote heat transfer needs to actually run test.
I did alot of this testing all last summer, tried a thermostat with the new 540 to keep heat in the motor but again found I had no control over the temperature, the block ran alot hotter is stop and go traffic.
Without I once again control everything.
For anyone having heating problems pull the thermostat and test it for yourself, no restrictor, nothing.
For me after many many tests a thermostat is really a overheating restriction that needs to be removed.
I do NOT drive in the cold weather. I am a fair weather driver.
 

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how long did it take to heat up? That;s the most important as most of the wear takes place when the engine is cold. Without the thermostat it'll take significantly longer to heat up. Also, the thermostat regualtes the minimum operating temperature. If you notice a large difference you may need a larger flow thermostat.
 

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i removed my thermostat but now it runs rough when it is cold. i did buy a high flow one. should i drop it in ? its a 165 high flow. the one from mr gasket
 

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I also do not use a thermostat. I also have some of the best aluminum water cooling components. I've always been a firm believer in them to get the water temp up fast and engine ware down. I also believe that the best thermal efficiency is attained right at 210 - 212. It is true that higher power and detonation resistance would come from lower water temps. But a minimum oil heat of @200 is required to keep most of water out of the oil.

I use an over driven racing Weiand Team “G” water pump. I tried some of the highest flowing thermostats with 4-8 additional 1/8th inch holes drilled in the stat so it would always have flow and clear out any air bubble formulation.
What I saw with my motor hot and stat fully open is that it could not keep up with the flow of the pump. The pump was drawing a vacuum in the radiator and upper radiator hose. Collapsing the radiator hose when the rpm came up. I also like Strider often saw temps of over 230 with both of my Spall fans on when running at high speed. So I bought a set of restrictor washers. Presently I use the ½ inch hole and as summer temps comp up I might go to a 5/8th or ¾.

TT – I never move my car until I see the temp come up over 100 degree water temp. Usually about 60 seconds of holding the idle at 1800 rpm. Then within a couple of minutes of slow driving it is up to 160 +. Then I am comfortable to let it go. My 434 really runs nice right around 190 – 200 degrees. Throttle is the crispest.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
how long did it take to heat up? That;s the most important as most of the wear takes place when the engine is cold. Without the thermostat it'll take significantly longer to heat up. Also, the thermostat regualtes the minimum operating temperature. If you notice a large difference you may need a larger flow thermostat.
It takes me about 6-10 miles before the temperature is above 185. I know that is the minimum temperature I should run for long life of the motor. I only pull it down to the 180 range if I intend to lean on the blower and I am trying to stay out of detonation.
The weather around here for June, july and august is about 28-30C or 80's and low 90's.
I just find I control the temp without the thermostat and if I let it get to close to 200 with the thermostat I could run into detonation with the blower.

While the thermostat regulates the minimum temperature it also offers a restriction in the line. I have honestly run this thermostat thing back and forth for about 3 years now, honestly doing my own testing and I always prefer NOT running one for the control it gives me.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i removed my thermostat but now it runs rough when it is cold. i did buy a high flow one. should i drop it in ? its a 165 high flow. the one from mr gasket
If it runs rough cold it is because the idle mixture is lean, a good thing for light load cruising and idling while hot.
In case you missed it before most of your legal speed limit cruising takes place on the idle circuit and not before 2500 or above do you get into the main jets. The idle circuit takes you a long way and idling rich and cruising rich is hard on the plugs, the motors life and your pocket book,
 
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