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GRUMPYVETTES BASIC TOOL LIST
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l items that may come in handy -not a comnplete list but it will get you started, and yeah! we all start with a basic tool box and keep buying tools we need as we need them, so don,t feel intimidated, you don,t need them all, but it sure would be nice!!!




A set of quick release tools for late model gm fuel lines and a/c line disconnects.
ACETYLENE TORCH
ADJUSTABLE LENGTH PUSH ROD
ADJUSTABLE POINTER ,
Adjustable stand, for dial indicator
Air compressor
Air ratchet
Allen wrenches
Allen wrenches
ASK QUESTIONS (its important to get answers BEFORE screwing up)
ASSORTED FILES
Assorted pliers/vise grips
ASSORTED SOCKETS,OPEN AND BOX WRENCHES 1/2",3/8".1/4" DRIVE
auto xray software
Ball joint press tools
Ball joint separator forks
Battery charger(full size shop type)
Bench grinder w/ wire wheel
Bench grinder w/ wire wheel
bearing press
Big huge screwdriver which doubles as a pry bar
BORE GAUGE
Brake spring pliers and retaining spring tool
Breaker bar
CAM BEARING INSTALLER
CAM DEGREE WHEEL
CAM HANDLE
CARBIDE BURRS
Carburetor stand
CC Burette Kit/PLUS STAND
Checking springs
chisels (assorted sizes/types)
clamp for compressing calipers
CLUTCH PILOT
Coil spring compressors
COMMON SENSE
Compression gauge
Compression tester
Compressor
CRANK SOCKETS
Creeper
Crows feet
Cutting torch
CYLINDER HONE
Deep sockets
DENT PULLER
DEPTH GAUGE
Dial indicator,
Die grinder
digital meter
Differential Set-up Kit
Distributor wrench sae
Distributor wrench metric
Drain pans all sizes
Dremel tool set to cut rivets etc.
DRIFT PUNCHES (assorted sizes/types)
Drill bits
DRILL PRESS
Drop light (florescent preferred)
Duct tape
Dwell meter for the older cars
EASY OUTS
ELECTRIC SOLDER GUN
Electrical connectors assorted
Electrical tape
Engine hoist
ENGINE LEVELER
ENGINE STAND
Feeler Gages
FIRE EXTINGUISHER co2
FIRE EXTINGUISHER powder
Flexible dwell key for point distributors
FREEZE PLUG INSTALLER
FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE
Full set of assorted hammers all the way up to 5 lb hand held full set of tap and dies metric and standard
Full set of torqze tip screw drivers and sockets male and female all sizes
Full size vice
Gasket scraper 2"
Gasket scraper4"
Gear Pullers (assorted)
GM disk brake caliper Allen key 3/8 and 5/16
GOOD KNOWLEDGEABLE FRIENDS
Grease gun
Harmonic balancer puller
HARMONIC BALLANCER INSTALLER
HONING STONE
Impact sockets
Jack stands and a 2 1/2 -3 ton full size service floor jack
JEWELERS FILES
LAPTOP COMPUTER with diagnostic software
Leakdown tester
LIFTER BORE HONE
LIFTER GROOVE TOOL
Line wrenches
LUIS TOOL
Magnet
MAGNETIC PICK UP TOOL
MAGNIFYING GLASS
Mallet
MANUAL LUBE PUMP
MICROMETERS
MIG WELDER
Mini Valve Spring Tester
MIRROR
Multimeter
Normal screwdrivers all sizes
NUT SPLITTER
OIL CAN
Oil filter and regular spin on filter wrenches.
Oil filter wrench plier type
Oil filter wrench expandable type
Oil pump primer chevy
Oil Pump Primers hydrolic
ONE NEW SOLID LIFTER
Paint gun
PB BLASTER OIL
Permanent marker
Pipe cutter
PISTON RING COMPRESSOR
Piston stop,
Pitman arm puller
Plasma cutter 200amp
Plasma cutter 60amp
PLASTIC HAMMER
Plastic zip-lock bags
Pneumatic chisel
Pneumatic impact guns 3/8 and 1/2 drive
Pressure bleeder for brakes
PRY BAR
PUSHROD CHECKER
Putty knife
Ramps
Rear caliper piston turning tool
REFERENCE MANUALS
Retracting extension cord
RIFLE CLEANING ROD AND BRUSHES FOR OIL PASSAGES
Ring expander pliers
RING GAP FILER
Rochester idle mixture adjusting tool
ROD BOLT GUIDES
ROD BOLT STRETCH GAUGE
Safety glasses
Sandblaster
SCAN SOFTWARE
Shorty wrenches
Sledge or mall hammer
SMALL FLASH LIGHT
Snap ring pliers internal and external
Speed wrench
SPRING COMPRESSOR
Standard set of drift pin punches, alignment punches, and centering punches.
Steering column lock plate compressor
Steering wheel puller
Stethoscope
Stick/arc welder
STUD INSTALLER
TAPE MEASURE
Taps & dies
Test light
Three or four of every size socket and wrenches plus extensions ETC.
Throw-away vinyl gloves
Tig welder
Timing light
Tire iron
Tire Pressure Gauges
Torque wrench 3/8'
TORQUE WRENCH 1/2"
Transmission jack
Tubing bender
Tubing cutter
Tubing flare tool
Utility knife
Utility knife
VACUUM GAUGE
Valve spring compressor
Wheel chocks (keep cars from rolling)
Wire crimper

http://www.pitstopusa.com/ENGINEMEASURINGTOOLS.asp

http://www.tavia.com/cat0.html

heres a few things that should always be checked on an engine build

heads
are the pushrods perfectly strait?
do the pushrods flow oil?
rocker studs/guides torqued correctly?
do the head bolts have washers under the bolt heads? are they the correct length for the cylinder heads in use?
have the heads been pocket ported?
combustion chambers unshrouded?
intake ports gasket matched"
are the valve guides cut to the correct length?
are the heads pocket ported?
is the retainer to valve guide clearance correct?
are the valve guide oil seals installed?
is there valve spring seats installed?
inner damper springs installed?
spring bind height checked? (to exceed max valve lift by .050 min.)
oil return holes cleaned of casting flash?
were steam holes in heads necessary?
were the spark plug threads of a installed spark plug extending into the combustion chamber?
rocker slot to rocker stud clearances ?
retainer to valve guide clearances?
spring bind height checked for the correct spring pressure?
valve lash/preload ?
are the valve springs the correct tension,height?dia.
keeper the correct angle? style? size?
valve seats the correct angles?
valves back cut?
valves the correct length, stemsthe correct diam.
strait?
rockers the correct ratio?
were the valve to valve guide clearances checked?
were the heads milled?
did the head gasket overlap the bore?
what are your valve train clearances?
is the rocker arm geometry correct!
chambers CC,ed
port work..(some steps optional)

(1) open throat to 85%-90% of valve size
(2)cut a 4 angle seat with 45 degree angle .065-.075 wide where the valve seats and about .100 at 60 degrees below and a .030 wide 30 degree cut above and a 20 degree cut above that rolled and blended into the combustion chamber
(3)blend the spark plug boss slightly and lay back the combustion chamber walls near the valves
(4)narrow but dont shorten the valve guide
(5) open and straiten and blend the upper two port corner edges along the port roof
(6) gasket match to/with intake and raise the port roof slightly
(7) back cut valves at 30 degrees
(8) polish valve face and round outer edges slightly
(9)polish combustion chamber surface and blend edges slightly
(10) remove and smooth away all casting flash , keep the floor of the port slightly rough but the roof and walls smoothed but not polished.
(11) use a head gasket to see the max you can open the combustion chamber walls
(12) blend but don,t grind away the short side radias


block
is the oil pump pick-up mounted 3/8"-1/2" from the oil pan floor/
is the windage screen mounted about 1/8" from the rotateing assembly/
is the pick-up brazed to the pump body?
has the oil pump relief piston in the oil pump been checked for free ,easy movement? clearance? spring tension?
is the oil pump pick-up tube inserted too far into the oil pump body,(binding the gears)
has the block been clearanced for the rotating assembly?
has the block been aline honed?
is the crank strait?
are the damper install keyway and threads ok?
counter weights clearanced?
MAGNAFLUXED?
OIL PASSAGES CLEANED?
GALLERY PLUGS INSTALLED CORRECTLY?
has the cam to rod bolt clearance been checked?
piston to valve clearances checked?
piston to bore clearances?
TRUST BEARING CLEARANCE?
what were the piston ring to slot clearances?
RING GAPS?
were the rings all checked individually for end gap in the cylinders they were used/installed in?
were the rings checked to make sure the correct side faced up, and the correct ring was in each groove?
what were the back clearance on the rings?
were the oil ring expanders carefully fitted for correct drag?
were the oil ring scraper ring rails checked for end gap?
total cam lift and remaining clearanceS?
WAS THE CAM DEGREED IN?
main bearing clearances?
what is the main bearing run-out clearance
piston to head clearance? (QUENCH?)
head gasket to coolent holes checked?
magnets installed?
rod bolt to block clearances?
what tq reading is necessay to spin the crank with no rods attached?
are the rod bolts and main caps torqued correctly? (rod bolts checked with a bolt stretch gauge?)
did you check the block for a strait main cap alignment?
what size journals and what were the bearings edge to filet clearance??
are the journals checked for finish and run-out/tapper?
did you use moly lube to assemble?
correct bearing crush?
did you pre-lube before start-up?
did the distributor gear fit the cam gear precisely?
was the distributor oil flow mod done?
was the correct style distributor gear used?
did you check the piston to piston pin bores for fit and clearance?
did the piston pins to snap ring clearance seem overly tight?
if they are pressed pins were they correctly matched and checked for free movement in the pistons?
was the engine ballanced?
cam button installed?, and lock plate installed?
were the rods resized? checked for parrallel bores/were the rods strait?
piston valve clearance notchs correctly located on the pistons? edges smoothed?
were the rods checked for length?
is there a few thousands clearance on the oil pump drive shaft AFTER the distributors bolted down?
did you install a steel collar on the oil pump drive shaft?
was the rod to piston pin side clearance checked? (at 4 places seperated bye 90 degree spots)
does the oil pump drive shaft mid section clear the block with the pump installed?
whats the starter to flywheel gear clearance?
is the pilot bearing to trans imput shaft clearance ok?
is the front motor mount bolt to fuel pump pushrod clearance ok? did the fuel pump pushrod move easily/
are you possitive the pistons were installed with the correct valve relief in the correct location?(eiieeiie) were the pistons installed with the correct side facing forward/
what torque values were used on all fasteners/ were they the correct length and type bolts?
were the bores honed with a torque plate in place?
was the cylinder finish correct for the type rings used?
was the oil pump itself checked for free spin and clearance AFTER THE PICK-UP WAS INSTALLED?
was the cam drive checked for free rotation and drag/
were the oil passage plugs drilled for extra oil flow?
were the lifter bores checked?
cam to timing cover clearance?
cam journal to cam bearing clearances?
was the cam journal run-out checked?
was the cam degreed in or just lined up useing factiory index marks?
has the rod and windage screen to oilpan clearnce been checked?
does the dipstick & tube clear the windage screen?
was the cam lobes/LSA/LIFT CHECKED?
is the deck square/level?
whats the cross hatch hone angle?
what grit hone was used? is it correct for the rings used?
are all the threads clean/clear?
brass freeze plugs installed?
block painted?
a few things to check

are the connecting rods installed with the beveled edge facing out on each pair with the bearing installed with the bevel facing out on both the lower and upper rod bearings also?

are you using beveled bearing shells that match the cranks throw bevels?

what are the bearing clearances? (are they the same checking at 90.120.160 degrees from the first measurement?}

what are the connecting rod side clearances?

is the crank strait? has it been turned undersize? if so...on ALL the rods? on ALL the mains? or on ALL the BEARINGS JOURNALS OR ONLY SOME?

whats the TRUST BEARING CLEARANCE?

is the piston side clearance correct?

are the pistons installed in the correct cylinders? (intake and exhaust notches correctly located to match the cylinder head)

are you POSSITIVE each main cap is in the correct location and FACING THE CORRECT DIRRECTION?

did you use MOLY assembly lube?

did you check EACH INDIVIDUAL RING ON EACH PISTON for ring gap clearance,AND that the rings fit the piston ring slots correctly? are any rings installed in the wrong ring slots (2nd ring in top slot ETC,)or upside down

do the rings have back clearance?

were the cylinders CORRECTLY HONED?

is the cam drive binding?

does the crank contact the windage screen?
does the dipstick tube or dip stick touch the crank at any point?

is the oil pump /cam gear binding?

did you check that the oil pump mounting bolt does NOT contact the back surface of the rear main BEARING under the main cap?

is the block warped, checked carefully?,was it line honed?


are the piston pins centered? do the pistons rotate thru an arc with little resistance?

are there any lock pins, spirolocs, tru-arcs contacting the cylinder walls?

are you sure the bearing shells are installed correctly and the locating tabs are in the correct slots?
are they the correct bearings for the application? or did you just assume the part guy knew what he was doing?
did you MEASURE or GUESS, did you at least use Plastigauge and a torqure wrench?


did you check EACH AND EVERY journal for tapper and roundness

did you get the rotateing assembly ballanced???
 

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Discussion Starter #3
long extendable grabbers and extendable magnets can sure save time, effort and burned fingers at times:thumbsup:
 
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