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I'm looking to find out how to get my 94 to hook up. I have a built 355 with 8.25 to 1 and 12-15 lbs boost and can't hook up. I have 315's on the back but as far as i know its stock gears and rear. Is there any suspention mods to help plant this thing? any help or sugestions?
 

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Try disconnecting the front sway bar. I totally removed mine and my brothers from his 1987 vette. Both cars hook harder and ride better and still corner like slot cars!:thumbsup:
 

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Have you tried the 315 BFG G-Force D/R's? I got them on the back of my 'Vette and hooking up is no problem anymore!
 

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removing the front swar bar would help with no effects? anyone else know anything about this?
I run with the swaybar removed from mine (and like mentioned) it gives quite a bit better weight transfer and better 60 FT times(especially when stickier rear tires are used)......with Mickey Thompson 275/40/17 Drag Radials(which propel many cars into the 7's and 8's in the quarter)....I consistantly run 1.56-1.60 60 FT times......."Properly Stalled" and "Geared" Automatic transmission (C4's) don't need much of anything else to do this (It's a bit harder to get a manual car to leave as hard).....getting 60 FT times any lower....and things like the independent rear end, and half shafts start becoming the weak links fast.........the only negative to the front swaybars removal, is the car wants to lean(sway:D ) a bit more...nothing unsafe though.........the next thing for even faster 60 FT times is to ditch the crappy transverse leaf springs for "much better" (for drag racing) coilovers at all four corners.......then the next step for many guys is converting over to a solid axel(for all out strength and drag performance).....something that I personally would never do with my car........so my advice is to remove your front swaybar....get the tires mentioned(that is if you want it to really hook).....see how it feels.....if better 60 FT times are desired still.....a 3.45- 3.73 rear gear ratio and a 2600-2800 stall converter will help greatly(for your supercharged combo)......many guys think that the lower gears and higher stall will increase traction problems, but it actually makes it "much" easier to leave the line hard and MUCH more consistant.......Joe:thumbsup:
 

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:agree: :agree: :agree: :agree: :agree: :agree: :agree: :agree: :agree:
 

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disabling the front anti-roll (sway) bar WILL make the rear end kick out more during hard cornering (oversteer)...follow the old lady in the prius and you shouldn't have a prob getting around.

tire slippage was designed into your car to limit loads on the drivetrain components...when you reduce tire slip, you WILL find the next weakest link in the drivetrain...and $10 aint gonna get you back on the road then.
 

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Make sure you have a Dana 44 in there if your an auto or you might not be happy.
 

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disabling the front anti-roll (sway) bar WILL make the rear end kick out more during hard cornering (oversteer)...follow the old lady in the prius and you shouldn't have a prob getting around.

tire slippage was designed into your car to limit loads on the drivetrain components...when you reduce tire slip, you WILL find the next weakest link in the drivetrain...and $10 aint gonna get you back on the road then.
I can run over the old lady in the PRIUS!!!!! removing the sway bar is a totally free modification. Try it if you don't like it put it back on. But I think you will agree it's DEAD WIEGHT! My car will out corner 90 percent of all other cars out there!:thumbsup:
 

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I can run over the old lady in the PRIUS!!!!! removing the sway bar is a totally free modification. Try it if you don't like it put it back on. But I think you will agree it's DEAD WIEGHT! My car will out corner 90 percent of all other cars out there!:thumbsup:
:thumbsup: ....EXACTLY
 

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Make sure you have a Dana 44 in there if your an auto or you might not be happy.
Yea, the stock Dana 36 won't like it one bit when it starts to get some traction...........
 

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You can buy composite half shafts that can handle as much punishment as you want to give them. They are kinda pricey, but very strong.
 

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You can buy composite half shafts that can handle as much punishment as you want to give them. They are kinda pricey, but very strong.
I've seen the 700 plus dollar composite shafts hold up to pretty high power levels, and then i've seen some come apart (unbonded) in low 12 second cars that diddn't even leave the line that hard at all(where the stock aluminum shafts would have held no problem).......Several of the companies that produce the composite shafts had updated designs (and improved versions) to their shafts because of issues...and there's a big area of grey about how much power they'll take and when they may come apart..........For drag racing, most guys go for something like this when they want a tried and true high horsepower application halfshaft...........http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/html/independent_rear.html
 

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I've seen the 700 plus dollar composite shafts hold up to pretty high power levels, and then i've seen some come apart (unbonded) in low 12 second cars that diddn't even leave the line that hard at all(where the stock aluminum shafts would have held no problem).......Several of the companies that produce the composite shafts had updated designs (and improved versions) to their shafts because of issues...and there's a big area of grey about how much power they'll take and when they may come apart..........For drag racing, most guys go for something like this when they want a tried and true high horsepower application halfshaft...........http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/html/independent_rear.html
Those are awesome. Thanks for the link, i'll keep it in mind
 

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