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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, Just bought a new car trailer a couple weeks ago. I got it to haul to different events. Especially if the event is getting my vette off the road and back home when it decides to stop running. I know...just call me a Trailer Queen. I don't want to spend another $95 for a 3 mile tow.



My question is, how do you trailering guys usually tie down your C4s safely and securely as to not damage the suspension?
My first idea was to get wheel straps as used on car dollys. But I read another blog that it causes too much stress on the joints and the car should be secure to the trailer without movement.
There doesn't seem to be an ideal place to attach a hook without fear of damage to suspension or body. I have found I think they are called P hooks and are designed to work with the GM frame. Ive read these are the same hooks used by car haulers. Could anyone tell me if the 1990 has the slots in the frame for these type of hooks? If so, where are they located?
Also, is there anything I can do do prevent snone damage to the car during long hauls? (Other than get an enclosed trailer)
 

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Good question. There's got to be a way, after all, they were all chained down to a railroad car and transport truck at one time.
 

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DC Crew
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I don't see how wheel straps would be any different than driving down the road. Your wheels stay on the road and the car floats on the suspension. That is how I would strap mine were it on a trailer. Nice trailer btw.:thumbsup:
 

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I found that the big trick was to get my car up the ramps without destroying the nose of the car. I had to make ramp extensions 4 feet long to ad to my 4 foot ramps just to get the angle right to avoid contact between the car and the ramp. Then I had to ad 2x10's to the trailer floor just to make it possible to open the door on my car so I could get out. Finding a tie down point isn't as hard there are plenty of points on the cradle in the front and quite a few hard points under the back. I hope your ramps are longer than mine!:thumbsup:
 

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J hooks

Just in front of the rear wheel and just behind the front wheel are oblong brackets with slots that the haulers use to tie down the car on their trailers. get 4 j hooks at your trailer supplier. and 4 ratchet tie downs . place the t shapeed hook in the slot and hook the strap to that .Ccross the tie downs left side to right , car to trailer. this keeps the Chp happy and keeps the car from shifting on the trailer. Set the parking brake and leave in gear. check load and tension after the first few miles and tighten straps accordingly , Here in Ca we are required to have 4 tie downs, crossed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Here is a strap I purchased from JustHarris(Ebay) Notice it has what they call a R J T cluster on one end. Not sure which one is used for the GM. Maybe someone could tell me? I checked into the company before buying. They are American made and are rated far beyond my use. A friend bought a similar set from them (no clusters) a few years ago and he loves them.



Haven't messed with the trailer much since purchase because It's been so @#%$& hot here (103 index). But I hope to try it on the trailer soon. The trailer does have a nicely sloped beaver tail and fairly long ramps so hopefully there will be no issue. Also when I went to look at the trailers they had a couple of brands. The one I picked had the lower wheel well height of 8 1/2" . The other was 10 1/2". I measured and it should work.
I am also considering installing a winch at the front of the trailer for when the vette needs a little help getting on. Does anyone have any suggestions? Where to mount? How to mount? Type of winch? Battery system?. How to hook the car when pulling it up the ramps? Thanks.
 

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red vette

atrailer without a winch is not a good thing. Idea 1 take iron channel and weld to tongue . place and weld plate across, you now have a rasied bed to place a winch or you could weld a 2 inch reviever on top of that and make the winch assembly removable. mount a separate deep cycle battery with qd's for a removable winch. the removable winch is a theft deterant . I know many a racer with that loss on there record. Buy a big winch from jegs or summit. a4000lbs car is hard to push.
 

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atrailer without a winch is not a good thing. a4000lbs car is hard to push.
I finally got a nice winch for my car trailer. Many years of using a come-along have turned me into a mighty strong man....:rolling:

For those of you who have trailered Vettes, is it better to load them ass first or does it matter?
 

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DC Crew
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Yea, we used rachet straps. Hooked up the front to the two tow hooks that are on stock C4s, underneath near the front wheels, up in there. The rears we ran through the wheels. Towed it to and from Michigan, in 2 days, 10-hour trips each way. Thing didn't budge one bit and there were no alignment issues from at all. The Vette towed very easily, as it cuts through the wind.

Funniest part was getting out of the car after pulling it onto the trailer. My buddy had to push inward on the car to raise it slightly, so I could open the door enough to squeeze out of the driver's door. Otherwise the door bumped into the trailer's wheel well.
 

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Talked to a sales man at GoodGuys and we all know that salesmen never lie. anyway his over the wheel straps hooked int those railroad track things that you attach to the beed of the trailer. the belts clip into the track behin and just in front of the wheel through a roller clip then on up to another clip with a racthet. looks a lot easier than the J hook setup I use and that is important to me. $170 his price per axle. that and a single j hook front and rear would REALLY strap it down. Try ******* trailer supply for those they are national and usually have the best prices.
 
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