[BlackRat]

well I put the stops back in the Hurst C+ shifter yesterday and it did take out some of the slop but still have a problem with it popping out of 1st under hard exceleration and 3rd on deceleration. I got the wife to run through the gears while I watched the movement of the rods. The rods engaged each gear but I did find a couple of things. I will try and explain as best as possible.

1. When looking at the side of the trannie case and watching the shift arms go in and out of gear. Should all 4 gears have an equal amount of arm travel? It looks like first is not traveling as far back as the other 3 gears allow the arms to move. Possible solution is in question 3 depending on the answer to this one. Hope this makes sense.

2. When the gears are fully engaged should the rods be rigid? I Can't pull the rod any further into any gear but the arms "pivo" up and down with no binding.

3. This may be the answer to question 1 depending on you guys input. The end of the shift rod for the 1st\2nd selector is hitting the E brake wheel mount on the cross member when the trannie is placed into 1st gear. This was a auto to manual conversion so it has an auto cross member so not sure if the E-brake is in a different location between the auto and manual members. I am going to pull th rod off this evening and see what needs to be done to eliminate the interference.

Thanks
Wade

 

[redvetracr]

did you check neutral with something in that hole in the side of the shifter?
redvetracr

 

[BlackRat]

did you check neutral with something in that hole in the side of the shifter?
redvetracr

Actually no that I did not do. I will try that also tonight. Even if I am not or at least not thinking I am having a problem with neutral that could be the cause of this??

Thanks
Wade

 

[iburke]

Place your tranny in first gear, with shift rod disconnected. Place shifter in first gear position. Check to make sure the rod is traveling as far as the tranny arm is. This will insure you your shifter and shift fork are both getting correct travel. And not fighting each other.

Worst case trouble would be misalignment of tranny to flywheel assembly. All though I have not seen this trouble since the 60's. You said this was a conversion. Have you always had this trouble since the conversion?

 

[redvetracr]

Actually no that I did not do. I will try that also tonight. Even if I am not or at least not thinking I am having a problem with neutral that could be the cause of this??

Thanks
Wade

adjusting the neutral gate IS the most important thing...and #1 on the Hurst instruction sheet....if the little Hurst tool or allen wrench or screwdriver doesn`t slide in and out smoothly you have a rod out of adjustment....I believe you need something 1/4" in diameter....your not adjusting neutral your adjusting the three rods, you just do it in neutral.
redvetracr

 

[gtr1999]

I agree check the alignment of the rods. I installed a new Hurst Comp+ 3 years ago in our 75 and they are not as good as they once were. The shifter itself had a lot of slop in it and I ended up shipping to NV to their service center. 3 weeks later I got it back and they told me there was nothing wrong with it. It was exactly the same as when I shipped it. I had a 25 year Comp + shifter to compare it too and there was a lot of play in the new one. I ended up repairing it myself. The rods also were not bent as well as the older shifter and would bind in one gear, I had to slightly grind a relief in one rod.
Hurst is now part of a multi auto part group and it shows.
If the alignment doesn't do the trick you may have to look at the sliders inside.

 

[BlackRat]

Thanks guys. I will try these methods tonight. A buddy of mine had a 68 Vette back in high school in '86 and I remember his C+ shifter was a lot tighter than this new version that I bought last year.

Thanks
Wade

 

[redvetracr]

I agree check the alignment of the rods. I installed a new Hurst Comp+ 3 years ago in our 75 and they are not as good as they once were. The shifter itself had a lot of slop in it and I ended up shipping to NV to their service center. 3 weeks later I got it back and they told me there was nothing wrong with it. It was exactly the same as when I shipped it. I had a 25 year Comp + shifter to compare it too and there was a lot of play in the new one. I ended up repairing it myself. The rods also were not bent as well as the older shifter and would bind in one gear, I had to slightly grind a relief in one rod.
Hurst is now part of a multi auto part group and it shows.
If the alignment doesn't do the trick you may have to look at the sliders inside.

The Hurst is better than a stocker, while it would take some creativitity to get it into a Corvette.... if you could shift a Long rail shifter just once you would throw that Hurst junk away..
redvetracr

 

[gtr1999]

The Hurst is better than a stocker, while it would take some creativitity to get it into a Corvette.... if you could shift a Long rail shifter just once you would throw that Hurst junk away..
redvetracr

I agree, the stock shifter is not to my liking. Once I got the Hurst fixed it has been fine as well. The bolts loosened up on it but otherwise it's been ok. Never drove with a Long shifter so I can't compare.

 

[BlackRat]

Ok guys, here is an update. I am not sure if it is good or bad as I have not had a chance to drive it yet. I lined the shifter up with that little plastic allen head wrench that came with the shifter. I also pulled the 1\2 shift rod off and found that the bolt holding the shift arm to the case was very loose to the point that I could grab the arm and wiggle it from side to side on the selector shaft. I tightened it all the way up and it took a lot of slack out of it. Other than this I didn’t find anything so I am not sure if this is a good thing or a bad thing. Sense I ran out of time tonight I didn’t get to test drive it. Is it possible that the loose bolt could have been the culprit. The arm did feel tighter when I moved it into 1st gear. Just hoping it isn’t wishful thinking sense I didn’t find anything else.

Thanks
Wade

 

[yellow73sb]

My dads does the same thing

 

[rtj]

Is it possible that the loose bolt could have been the culprit. The arm did feel tighter when I moved it into 1st gear.

Thanks
Wade

Yes, loose nuts on the shifter arm did that on my 75.

 

[TimAT]

If you found the bolt holding the shifter lever to the trans loose, CHECK ALL THE BOLTS!! make sure they're ALL tight. Wouldn't hurt to put a drop or two of BLUE locktite on those bolts too, then retighten them. While you've got the lever off the tranny, look and make sure the lever sill has a good slot for the shift fork- that it's not worn really bad and not getting the "bie" that it should on the fork..

:cheers: