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Wheels, trailing arms, strut rods, and spring are all off. Previous owner undercoated alot underneath, but I want to spruce up the exposed frame in the wheel wells and the pumpkin crossmember, possibly the pumpkin, and the bracket securing the pumpkin. I just have some light surface rust. What do I sand with and what product do I use to paint with. Thought about Rustoleum or something like that. Possible colors? Thanks in advance for the advice.
 

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Wheels, trailing arms, strut rods, and spring are all off.
With all this already taken off, It is real easy to remove the Diff crossmember (just those (2) bolts on the ends of the crossmember). The whole Diff and crossmber will drop down for painting/ cleaning

Thought about Rustoleum or something like that. Possible colors? Thanks in advance for the advice.
I'm a stock kinda guy, I would paint ALL the frame componets and half shafts either a satin black or a gloss black Not really a fan of Rustoleum though. Some people use the brush type paint, I personaly use automotive paint I get mixed up or If I use a rattle can I use implement paint I buy at Fleet Farm (has a tractor on the label and this stuff when dried is hard as nails. I use this to touch up the steel skis om my snowmobile.

Look in the Mid America catalog and look for "cast" spray paint and paint the diff with this to make it look like bare cast iron
 

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I hit the rust with a wire brush in the drill, then applied a rust converter (I use a product called One Step) and then Eastwood Chassis Black gloss paint from a rattle can. Differential got the same rust treatment, then Cast Blast spray paint from Seymour. Spring bracket and strut rod bracket get the Chassis Black. Cast Blast on the half-shafts and driveshaft too:




Cheers,

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks fellas. Hey Mike the NCRS clan would send me home:laughing: The previous owner of this car made sure of that:laughing:
 

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I had mine all apart as well. I started out using a wire brush- different types- all were disappointing. I had a "flapper brush" for paint removal and it worked great- cleaned the rust off great.



I mean all apart-The rear compartments were damaged from the previous owner launching some halfshafts- so I had to fiberglass them up. I went w/ a faux carbon fiber look- charcoal -silver and then clear- looks splotchy in the photos-


The halfshafts- I glassbeaded -cleaned up the welds and did the carbon fiber look on them as well-



For the frame- I used Rustolem gray primer-then gloss black- all out of rattle cans-



Here it's almost back together w/ VanSteel coilovers



And here's the car finally sitting on the ground...Rotors will be replaced...

 

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My 78SA rear end is totally apart, and I'm doing a 6-link rear upgrade (finished final fabrication work last night, now I just have to finish cleaning the right rear wheel well, then the entire frame & underbody is ready for paint, then first complete test fit of the 6-link! Woo hoo!!!:thumbsup:

For frame & steel floor pans, I trying Rustoleum Cold Galvanizing Primer, then Rustoleum Semi-gloss black 500 deg. Engine Paint.

Anything that is cast iron, (hubs, differential, etc.) was polished up using many wire wheels, and stainless toothbrushes. (Wish I had tried the above mentioned paint removing flapper wheel.) Then Rustoleum High Performance Wheel Clear Coat to make a shiny wet look, highlighting the natural beauty of the metal, and preventing rust.

My drive & half shafts got a little "bit 'o bling" with Duplicolor Metallics Anodized Blue on the polished yolks & new U-joints fading to a clear coated tube.

Really like the Faux Carbon Fiber treatment too! :thumbsup:

All 6-link bracketry is initially the semi-gloss black Rustoleum, until all succesful testing has been completed, design finalized, then powder coated gloss black.

PPM hex strut rods are black anodized aluminum, and QS Components Hiem Joints are chrome moly.

Pix when I start re-assembly.
 

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Metalkid-

I'd do a "google' search on the Cold Galvanizing primer...It doesn't take a topcoat very well- or so many people say.

I was really happy w/ the gray primer- and you can topcoat almost immediately.

Be carefully w/ the clearcoat- it flashes really fast and can craze your paint. Just mist the clear for several coats before you give it a good shot- ask me how I know...

On polished metal-supposedly it stops rust...I had polished a lot of parts on my 65 but it rusted in a year or two.

Have fun!!!

Richard
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Looks great fellas:thumbsup: I hope this is not a stupid question, but when you lower the differential do you disconnect the drive shaft at the front yoke or does it all just tilt down?
 

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Metalkid-

I'd do a "google' search on the Cold Galvanizing primer...It doesn't take a topcoat very well- or so many people say.

I was really happy w/ the gray primer- and you can topcoat almost immediately.
Yeah, it looks like perhaps I should stick with standard primer. I've used the Cold galv. on the trailing arms, followed by the semi-gloss black with no problems, but, the Cold Galv. is like $9 a can, and I live in the desert, so moisture isn't going to be much of a concern. I just want to use something that will be better than OEM, and since it's some 30+ years later I'm sure today's paints are better then they were in the late 70's.

Be carefully w/ the clearcoat- it flashes really fast and can craze your paint. Just mist the clear for several coats before you give it a good shot- ask me how I know...

On polished metal-supposedly it stops rust...I had polished a lot of parts on my 65 but it rusted in a year or two.

Have fun!!!

Richard
I've already tested the High Performance Wheel Paint (Clear) for compatability with the painted surfaces I'm using it on, the Duplicolor Gold on the Disc Brake Dust Shields, and the Duplicolor Metallics Blue Anodized on the drive & half shafts. Stuff goes on super easy, smooth, (be carefull about getting too much on at a time causing runs), and sets up very quickly.
Looks really great on unpainted but polished (well, ....wire wheeled to a shine) cast iron surfaces. And some paint, (like a clear coat) is better than no paint, plus I'll be able to see if any rust starts, since the finish is clear, (but again, I live in a desert so I doubt that will be much of problem).

Yesterday, I was able to prime the Dust Shield with Cold Galv. add the gold, then clearcoat both the shield and the hub assy, and had it sitting on my dinning room table about 1/2 hour after the clear had been applied. Amazing stuff!
 

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Looks great fellas:thumbsup: I hope this is not a stupid question, but when you lower the differential do you disconnect the drive shaft at the front yoke or does it all just tilt down?
I pulled mine out a couple of weeks ago, the drive shaft came out attached by sliding it out the back on a jack although the bolt that goes through the rubber mount on the front of the diff did get in the way a bit but with a bit of wrestling it comes pretty easily.

I've heard so many comments about trouble getting bolts undone....I didn't come across a single issue.

The trailing arm to chassis conection are very fiddly to get out....you'll soon see why!



Hope this was of some help.











I think i'll be getting my crossmembers etc. sandblasted and powder coated.

Does anyone know if there will be an issue getting this done to the differential as it comes straight out of the car fully assembled?




Liam.
 

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I think i'll be getting my crossmembers etc. sandblasted and powder coated.

Does anyone know if there will be an issue getting this done to the differential as it comes straight out of the car fully assembled?




Liam.
I inquired about having one of my hub assys blasted (to try and save my wrists from the abuse imparted by using wire brushes), and learned three things: A powder coating shop doesn't have a strong enough blasting system to remove rust from cast iron.

A blasting shop that did have adequate equipment wanted $90/ half hour to do the work, (way out of my price range!)

You don't want any kind of blaster near any assembly that has seals and bearings, (hubs, diffs, etc.) because a 3000 psi media stream will shred seals, and destroy bearings.

Also would worry about the 400 deg temp used for powdercoating (unless its a UV powdercoat) damaging seals, melting the plastic diff. vent etc.

Fully assembled you'd be better off sticking to wire brushes and paint (I clear coated my iron pieces.....ooooooooo, shiney!:thumbsup:)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Wire brushed my crossmember and differential bracket real good. Will rust converter stick to the metal even though I seem to have removed most of the rust? Working on my frame now. Thanks in advance. :thumbsup:
 

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Wire brushed my crossmember and differential bracket real good. Will rust converter stick to the metal even though I seem to have removed most of the rust? Working on my frame now. Thanks in advance. :thumbsup:
Here is a pic of a rust converter (OSPHO) used in a weed sprayer after simply pressure cleaning at 3500 psi.
There are 2 ways to use the converter.
First I sprayed let stand 1/2 hour and rinsed with water. Repeated several times. This removed all rust to look like new steel, but drying in this hot humid Florida weather, itstarted to get a new rust film after drying.
Second and final method, was to spray converter on again and let sit overnite. Also did the insides of everything including trailing arms. This converts all steel to prevent rusting and prep for paint. Good for about a year here in Florida without covering in paint.
2nd Pic is covered with Rustoleum semi.

OSPHO or MetalPrep (Home Depot)(cheaper) is just phosphoric acid and glycol.



 

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I had mine all apart as well. I started out using a wire brush- different types- all were disappointing. I had a "flapper brush" for paint removal and it worked great- cleaned the rust off great.



I mean all apart-The rear compartments were damaged from the previous owner launching some halfshafts- so I had to fiberglass them up. I went w/ a faux carbon fiber look- charcoal -silver and then clear- looks splotchy in the photos-


The halfshafts- I glassbeaded -cleaned up the welds and did the carbon fiber look on them as well-



For the frame- I used Rustolem gray primer-then gloss black- all out of rattle cans-



Here it's almost back together w/ VanSteel coilovers



And here's the car finally sitting on the ground...Rotors will be replaced...


How do you like those coil-overs??
 

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I see in your sig that your car has been rotting away for only 10 years....my car-has been sitting 20+.... However - now it rolls around a lot easier w/ the coil overs.

I gotta say the coil overs went in really easy- just a little bit of welding for the spring reinforcement.

I'm hoping to have it on the road by the end of the summer- the engine/tranny swap has taken more time than I expected- plus been busy w/ work.

Here's some more pics-




 
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