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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
In a 1982 collectors edition. Before I tear into my steering column and find out that I cant drive my car til I get a new column, can the looseness be tightened up or must it replaced. Any heelp would be appreciated!
Thanks in advance
Tim
 

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In a 1982 collectors edition. Before I tear into my steering column and find out that I cant drive my car til I get a new column, can the looseness be tightened up or must it replaced. Any heelp would be appreciated!
Thanks in advance
Tim
I can tell you now that I am finishing mine up, it's the 4 screws that go in first. You have to tear it all the way apart to get to them, but you really don't need to replace anything else. My four screws were "hand" tight. I checked the pawls,pins, most anything else. I changed the bearings just "because I'm in there."

If your going to do this, after you get the wheel off, pull the whole assembly out of the car. It CANNOT be done in the car. You will also have to download Jim Sheas steering papers #1,2,&3. It will guide you all the way in and out, along with part#s still available at GM.
Figure on a full day to remove and tear down, and a full, long day to assemble and install. It would be quite a chore to do in a weekend.:D
 

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Bird, I rebuilt my TT column before it ever went into the vette...it's a '78 up column in my '72, pulled it back off the bulkhead about 3/4 inch...

after all that, I had to fix something in there, I forget...anyway, I had it down to the screws while in the car....

but you are right, they are a PIA to do allright...I found gettng that locking plate and C ring off the main shaft was the worst...

but fashioned a piect of PVC pipe about 2" long and a cresent cut outta it making a C out of it....washer on top, and then the wheel bolt with the star screw on the tele rod....worked fine....on and off....
tricky part is that upper/lower bearing set if the keepers are shot...using plastic for the keepers was not good decision...shoud have been aluminum...
 

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It can be done in the car, but it is far easier to work on a T&T steering column when it is on a bench rather than in a cramped C3 interior. You have a lot of parts that you have to keep track of.

Jim
 

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How come it can't be done in the car BigBird?
Perhaps CANNOT is too definitive. It is infinitely easier.

#1 Changing the lower bearing would be almost impossible.
#2 You have to remove the tilt pivot pins. Difficult at best.
#3 You have to beat them back in latter with a punch and hammer. You know what that will mean.:laughing: :crazy:

I suppose you could change a crankshaft in place. Also not a good idea.
 

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tricky part is that upper/lower bearing set if the keepers are shot...using plastic for the keepers was not good decision...shoud have been aluminum...
Gene,
Since you brought it up. I wrote Jim Shea a letter last night. They changed the design of the keepers/ball seperators. The new bearings have thicker flanges, and the races have more relief machined in.
If you change the ball seperators because the are broken, you MUST change the races now.I tried the new ball seperators in the old races. They bind up.




Driving in the new races. You have to dissassemble the bearings to do this. The casting is pot-metal. Use caution, or it will break.
 

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It can be done in the car, but it is far easier to work on a T&T steering column when it is on a bench rather than in a cramped C3 interior. You have a lot of parts that you have to keep track of.

Jim
Jim. I want to thank you publicly for sharing your wisdom and knowledge.:thumbsup: :D
 

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I've rebuilt hundreds of columns over the years, but I haven't done one in an older Vette. I can see where space would be at a premium. (Heck, just getting in and out is a job in itself) Thanks for the heads up if I ever have to perform the surgery.
 

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Funny, I have never had much problems getting the pivot pins out, once the spring was released....they just slip right out....with a slight tug on a small screw with pliars on it....

:crazy: :cheers:
 

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Funny, I have never had much problems getting the pivot pins out, once the spring was released....they just slip right out....with a slight tug on a small screw with pliars on it....

:crazy: :cheers:
90% of the time they slip out with no problem. The other 10%, however can be a real pain. Bird had 1 in the 10% class. Even the little tool that "Spent-Moore" sells will give up on those. That #8 screw that is the heart of the puller is just not tough enough, and it's the factory recommended tool.

:cheers:
 

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I miss the joke. I have been in the automotive industry for over thirty years.
I've spent twelve years in the trenches at a Chevrolet dealership. All the stolen recovery cars and every other column job came to me because nobody else wanted to mess with them. If you think I'm a tinhorn and blowhard then I guess I have found the wrong forum to belong to. Don't flame me. I don't need this forum for information. I feel as if I have a lot to contribute. If you can't appreciate that then maybe I shouldn't be here..
 

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I miss the joke. I have been in the automotive industry for over thirty years.
I've spent twelve years in the trenches at a Chevrolet dealership. All the stolen recovery cars and every other column job came to me because nobody else wanted to mess with them. If you think I'm a tinhorn and blowhard then I guess I have found the wrong forum to belong to. Don't flame me. I don't need this forum for information. I feel as if I have a lot to contribute. If you can't appreciate that then maybe I shouldn't be here..
Nobodys flaming anybody here. I am merely stating 1 is enough for me. My hat's off to you. You ARE at the RIGHT forum. Your knowledge is welcomed here.;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
steering column

I can tell you now that I am finishing mine up, it's the 4 screws that go in first. You have to tear it all the way apart to get to them, but you really don't need to replace anything else. My four screws were "hand" tight. I checked the pawls,pins, most anything else. I changed the bearings just "because I'm in there."

If your going to do this, after you get the wheel off, pull the whole assembly out of the car. It CANNOT be done in the car. You will also have to download Jim Sheas steering papers #1,2,&3[/COLOR]. It will guide you all the way in and out, along with part#s still available at GM.
Figure on a full day to remove and tear down, and a full, long day to assemble and install. It would be quite a chore to do in a weekend.:D


You said about downloading jim sheas steering papers where do I find them
 

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Sorry, I took it the wrong way. My apologies.:thud:
:thumbsup:

Barney, invest in some thicker skin. If you're getting flamed, you'll know it. Just about everyone here is more than willing to throw out some very good advice, but it may have a couple of, shall we say, "zingers" in there. If you were in a dealer (I was) everyone is always joking, teasing, kidding. If someone finds out what really gets you going, they'll wear you out with it.
Same thing here.

Here it's kind of like a "WELCOME ABOARD"

:cheers:
 

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Go to www.corvettefaq.com
Click on Jim Shea's Steering Articles
Click on Corvette Steering Papers
Scroll down to the appropriate steering section.

Jim

PS Big Bird, thank you for the eMail outlining the possible interference problem between the plastic separator and the outer races. some comment will be added to my T&T Steering Column Disassembly & Repair Paper #3.

Comments, observations, corrections, etc are always welcomed.
 

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PS Big Bird, thank you for the eMail outlining the possible interference problem between the plastic separator and the outer races. some comment will be added to my T&T Steering Column Disassembly & Repair Paper #3.

Comments, observations, corrections, etc are always welcomed.
Just trying to help the next guy.:thumbsup:
 
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