I can tell you now that I am finishing mine up, it's the 4 screws that go in first. You have to tear it all the way apart to get to them, but you really don't need to replace anything else. My four screws were "hand" tight. I checked the pawls,pins, most anything else. I changed the bearings just "because I'm in there."In a 1982 collectors edition. Before I tear into my steering column and find out that I cant drive my car til I get a new column, can the looseness be tightened up or must it replaced. Any heelp would be appreciated!
Thanks in advance
Perhaps CANNOT is too definitive. It is infinitely easier.How come it can't be done in the car BigBird?
Gene,tricky part is that upper/lower bearing set if the keepers are shot...using plastic for the keepers was not good decision...shoud have been aluminum...
Jim. I want to thank you publicly for sharing your wisdom and knowledge.:thumbsup:It can be done in the car, but it is far easier to work on a T&T steering column when it is on a bench rather than in a cramped C3 interior. You have a lot of parts that you have to keep track of.
90% of the time they slip out with no problem. The other 10%, however can be a real pain. Bird had 1 in the 10% class. Even the little tool that "Spent-Moore" sells will give up on those. That #8 screw that is the heart of the puller is just not tough enough, and it's the factory recommended tool.Funny, I have never had much problems getting the pivot pins out, once the spring was released....they just slip right out....with a slight tug on a small screw with pliars on it....
Nobodys flaming anybody here. I am merely stating 1 is enough for me. My hat's off to you. You ARE at the RIGHT forum. Your knowledge is welcomed here.I miss the joke. I have been in the automotive industry for over thirty years.
I've spent twelve years in the trenches at a Chevrolet dealership. All the stolen recovery cars and every other column job came to me because nobody else wanted to mess with them. If you think I'm a tinhorn and blowhard then I guess I have found the wrong forum to belong to. Don't flame me. I don't need this forum for information. I feel as if I have a lot to contribute. If you can't appreciate that then maybe I shouldn't be here..
I can tell you now that I am finishing mine up, it's the 4 screws that go in first. You have to tear it all the way apart to get to them, but you really don't need to replace anything else. My four screws were "hand" tight. I checked the pawls,pins, most anything else. I changed the bearings just "because I'm in there."
If your going to do this, after you get the wheel off, pull the whole assembly out of the car. It CANNOT be done in the car. You will also have to download Jim Sheas steering papers #1,2,&3[/COLOR]. It will guide you all the way in and out, along with part#s still available at GM.
Figure on a full day to remove and tear down, and a full, long day to assemble and install. It would be quite a chore to do in a weekend.
:thumbsup:Sorry, I took it the wrong way. My apologies.:thud:
Just trying to help the next guy.:thumbsup:PS Big Bird, thank you for the eMail outlining the possible interference problem between the plastic separator and the outer races. some comment will be added to my T&T Steering Column Disassembly & Repair Paper #3.
Comments, observations, corrections, etc are always welcomed.