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DC Crew
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Misleading title, but it got you to check this out.
I worked on replumbing my water lines to the back of the intake manifold from the EWP to ensure no air pockets and to get cooler water to the furthest point in the motor.
Because everything is so damn tight back there due to the blower, big distributor & NX lines, it took some serious 'snakin' to get it all to fit. Anytime I add even the smallest item, I have to move two others to get it to fit. The fittings and lines from the old vauum ports ran into the area of where the water lines had to go, so I 'T' off a new hole I installed. All very tight and looks like a viper pit, but it is all for accessability once back on the car. Don't forget, I have a 5" engin set back so that stuff is right up against the firewall too.
As for the motor, it's @ the machine shop and is being 'corrected' as necessary. I haven't heard yet, but when I took it over to them he looked at it and sid it didn't seem as bad as he was told and it may 'clean up' with a little bore thru it. We'll see this coming week.




 

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Glenn, that sure is a snake pit back there, hope you don't get bit.

We are all wishing you good luck getting your motor back and fixed for good.
The Lexington is a waiting.:partyon:
 

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This is such an area where 5/8 stainless hard line (from aircraft supplies), a 37degree flare tool and a 5/8 bender comes in handy. Hard lines are so much easier to nest close together, sure the bending is a total PITA but you can make smaller radii. I kind of have the same problem and will use even more hard lines once I final isntall everything. I still have to install the coolant and heater lines and was going to do it just like you have.

 

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DC Crew
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Discussion Starter #4
This is such an area where 5/8 stainless hard line (from aircraft supplies), a 37degree flare tool and a 5/8 bender comes in handy. Hard lines are so much easier to nest close together, sure the bending is a total PITA but you can make smaller radii. I kind of have the same problem and will use even more hard lines once I final isntall everything. I still have to install the coolant and heater lines and was going to do it just like you have.

:agree: TT, I WAS looking at hard lines, and was about to go that way instead of SSbraided, but I found a left over length of braided line so the cost was a big factor. With the hard lines there were sleves, nuts, flair tools etc (I didn't have them) so with the braided, it was just three ends to be added, (already had one on the line).
Your set up really looks neat and organized. Great stuff. :thumbsup: Glenn
 

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what's wrong with the engine this time? didn't you jsut recently button it up after you broke a ring land or so due to cooling issues? (did you sort out those issues btw?)
 

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:agree: TT, I WAS looking at hard lines, and was about to go that way instead of SSbraided, but I found a left over length of braided line so the cost was a big factor. With the hard lines there were sleves, nuts, flair tools etc (I didn't have them) so with the braided, it was just three ends to be added, (already had one on the line).
Your set up really looks neat and organized. Great stuff. :thumbsup: Glenn
Glenn,
I have quiet a few leftovers from my fuel line excercise, had to buy 25' tubing and needed only 4' ... I have 3/8" aluminum and stainless tubing, a 37 degree flare tool and bender. Is 3/8" too small ??
 

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anyone got a good source for stainless 5/8 and 3/4 line? I know an aircraft supplier but they sell straight sections, not rolls...can't have that shipped.
 

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DC Crew
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Discussion Starter #9
what's wrong with the engine this time? didn't you jsut recently button it up after you broke a ring land or so due to cooling issues? (did you sort out those issues btw?)
TT, I thought I had said elsewhere. (Check Viper Pit Found in Vette post elsewhere here for the sickning photos).

When they put the motor back together from the piston thing, one of the engine builder's helpers didn't know (or didn't care since he's no longer working there) that the bar links that connect roller lifters together have an UP side with an arrow stamped on the bar. Four of the eight bars were installed upside down, causing the lifters to be cocked in the bores and ride sideways on their rollers across the cam. This put added stress to the side of the lifters and some broke the bars, allowing the lifters to spin on the cam. Some broke the roller tips completely off down into the pan. The cam is destroyed and the block has a couple of small nicks in the lifter bores, but is being cleaned up and may require a sleeve insert. This happened the morning after finally finding my cooling problem after a year of seaching. I took the vette out for a shakedwon run and the motor broke on the way home.

Bad79, I sure wish I had known about the hard line earlier. I would have borrowed your tools and paid you for some of that extra line. 3/8th is exactly what size inside diameter I am running. My system is finished now with braided lines, but thanks. You were close enough it would have been a good deal.

Once more into the pit. Hopefully THIS time it will be fixed right and I can finally drive the damn thing!! :excited: Glenn
 

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so, what was causing the cooling issue? Collapsed coolant line somewhere...in that long length of line you must have running there?
 

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so, what was causing the cooling issue? Collapsed coolant line somewhere...in that long length of line you must have running there?
Very close guess.:laughing:

Glenn had posted pix somewhere, where he had made little collars out of tubing to act as a return hose inner spring to prevent collapsing, and one had turned sideways and blocked most of the coolant flow. The original overheating cause.
 

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DC Crew
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Discussion Starter #12
so, what was causing the cooling issue? Collapsed coolant line somewhere...in that long length of line you must have running there?
You might say it was a blockage...


This piece of hose burried under the roolbar padding, had an insert to prevent it from being sucked closed when hot. It managed to get turned around sideways and blocked the opening by about 80%. I THINK that will fix it, but only got a short drive in before the motor broke. It seemed to be OK, but will have to wait. None of the motor problems was doing the cooling any favors either. Glenn
 

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DC Crew
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Discussion Starter #15
that would explain the cooling issues
Yes, it would...BUT so would having a leaking waterpump, a hose being sucked closed when hot, and some of the other things I've found over the past year trying to hunt this grimlin down. This one makes the MOST sense, but I'm only waiting till it's all back together and runs a tank of gas out without overheating before I proclaim it cured. G
 
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